• I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...

Intro to Wall Graphics / Wall Murals

Br0wnie

New Member
Hello,

I work for a sign company that is going to begin to producing large vinyl wall graphics. Can someone recommend any resources detailing the start to finish process of doing so? Thanks in advance.
 

Boudica

Back to "educational purposes"
Hello,

I work for a sign company that is going to begin to producing large vinyl wall graphics. Can someone recommend any resources detailing the start to finish process of doing so? Thanks in advance.
It's not really rocket science.... do you have an installer who already installs some type of vinyl graphics?
 

Br0wnie

New Member
It's not really rocket science.... do you have an installer who already installs some type of vinyl graphics?
Yes, we do. Installation is not the concern though. It's the production side of things we could use guidance with. Things such as material recommendations, machine and software features that will allow us to efficiently produce long runs of floor to ceiling wall graphics .... even laminate and laminator recommendations as there is talk about purchasing a new laminator for these graphics. Large format printing is relatively new us. We recently purchased a Mimaki UCJV300-160 so we are in the process of learning that machine in addition to figuring out all of the above.
 

White Haus

Not a Newbie
Welcome to Signs 101....................

We also have a UCJV and it's great for wall wraps. We generally use 3M 40C and Avery DOL 2080 Matte laminate and that combination has performed well.

Regarding the step by step "Easy guide" you're looking for, I'd suggest searching through this forum as it a subject that is discussed often.

You'll find lots of helpful threads and members here, but it might be a good idea for you to at least put a bit of effort into it.
 

MarkSnelling

Mark Snelling - Hasco Graphics
If you don't want to laminate, use Drytac's Retac product. It comes in a 6mil Smooth, Sand, Canvas, and Linen texture. The textures look amazing and they hide the imperfections in the wall. At 6mils thick the material is 2mils thicker than a vinyl and lam combo and it is very easy to install. Best of all, if the wall has been well primed and painted in the past, the Retac should remove without damaging the wall or even taking paint even years after applications.

54"x150' rolls are only $484 as opposed to using IJ40 + laminate (+ labor to laminate). Less expensive at the time of removal. Great product. I've got lots in stock.
 

Modern Ink Signs

Premium Subscriber
Before looking at all of these “recommendations for material” here are some things to remember about what you are about to get into.


- Adhesion tests should be a MUST in my opinion. When we produce wall murals we ALWAYS do a test. I’ve installed a lot of supplied murals and let me tell you, NOT having the right material is just asking for trouble.

- Paint? What paint was used. There is a reason what the paint manufacturers say easy to clean, etc. that is because nothing will stick to them. This includes many vinyls

- Many new walls are not properly prepared for a wall mural.

- What wall surface? Smooth drywall (which really is not “smooth), sand texture, brick, block, etc.

- You should be able to utilize your current software and RIP. If you are looking for recommendations, we use Illustrator and Photoshop and our RIP is Onyx

- I’ve personally liked the wall murals that are printed with latex. Personally do not like the UV printed. We have produced both latex and eco-solvent.

- Lamination adds to the cost of course and adds to the equation


Feel free to contact me to discuss more if you’d like.
 

CMYKprnt

New Member
You can do a search for 3m wall graphic install instructions and you find everything you need to know. Previous post is correct. Always do pull test or you will get burned. Paint and primer are the main pain points. Then it comes down to bleed - 1” or 1/2”. You will figure it out.
 
Top