Joining panels?

[phototec]

Ok guys, I have a 18' wide sign x 5' tall 3mm thick white Max-Metal (Dibond) sign to make, going on the side of a corrugated metal building, so I plan to purchase 10'x5' panels, one 10'x5' and one 8'x5', my supplier only sells 10'x5', so I will have a 5'x2' scape piece left over.

Anyway, I wanted to know some thoughts (suggestions), on the best way to seam (join) the two 3mm Max-Metal panels together?

I remember reading a post a while back on how to joint the two panels together, but can't remember the procedure. Cut vinyl will be applied to the the white panels, don't know how to handle the seam (joint) between the two panels.

Any help or suggestions will be appreciated.

 

[J Hill Designs]

leave the seam and install panels separately - you can bridge the seam with vinyl once installed if you see fit

 

[phototec]

leave the seam and install panels separately - you can bridge the seam with vinyl once installed if you see fit

Ok, so you are saying no need to used a "sline" in-between the panels or add some type of splice piece to the back of the panels at the joint?

 

[J Hill Designs]

if the seam hits where you can screw in with in 1 1/2" you shouldn't need a backsplice..if it falls directly in the middle of 2 corrugations (ie approx 6" in to first screw point) I would use a backsplice yes

 

[J Hill Designs]

another option would be a full frame to attach the panels to

 

[Billct2]

Yes, a dutchman on the back if neeed. Better yet a frame with a strut where the panels join.

 

[signage]

Yes, a dutchman on the back if neeed. Better yet a frame with a strut where the panels join.

+1

 

[jmb474]

We usually build a frame and then attach the max metal to the frame. Keep the seams lined up well.

 

[Mosh]

vhb a 2" wide peice of .040 on the back with 1" hanging out. This will make your seam tight. Also cut the two panels the same size so the joint is in the middle, unless your design hides it te way it is.

 

[phototec]

We usually build a frame and then attach the max metal to the frame. Keep the seams lined up well.

Here is a 10' x 5' aluminum sign on another building in town, it's screwed directly to the corrugated metal building without any frame, they painted the screw heads black and applied black vinyl to the perimeter to make a boarder.

I have seen this type of sign before, why would you need an additional metal frame?

Can you give me a little more info on what type of frame and how it's put together?

 

[SignManiac]

^^^^That sure is one bad layout. Too much negative space.

 

[visual800]

we usually have aluminum frame made to the size of the sign using 1x2 square tubing with some verticla braces the sign is screw or riveted to the frame and the whole thing is installed. if there is a joint we make sure a brace is directly behind the joint

Having a frame made takes all the wavyness out of aluminum signs and on dibond or maxxmetal it allows you to have a cleaner joint. We then use 2-3" tek screws to affix to corrugated building.

 

[Billct2]

We use 1x1 aluminum tube and use connectors that are made for the tube, they can be screwed or popriveted. We also usually bend a raised frame for the sides from .040.
It just looks better, more finished. It also lets us use brackets to install it so we don't have ant screws thru the face.
That sign looks cheap, nothing wrong with that, but it looks it.

 

[jmb474]

Here is a 10' x 5' aluminum sign on another building in town, it's screwed directly to the corrugated metal building without any frame, they painted the screw heads black and applied black vinyl to the perimeter to make a boarder.

I have seen this type of sign before, why would you need an additional metal frame?

Can you give me a little more info on what type of frame and how it's put together?

In the pic it looks like a single piece and not a seamed piece. If you have a seam and it falls in open space to 2 pieces wont line up and wont look professional.

 

[Moze]

If you want a more finished look as the others have mentioned, go with the frame.

Another way to skin the cat is to fab individual perimeter frames for both panels out of 2" aluminum angle. Miter the corners of the angle, then attach them to the panels with 2" VHB tape. At your shop, pre-drill and through-bolt the angle. Transport the panels to the site as two pieces, through-bolt the two together on-site, install as one unit using clips. Easy install, no waves, super clean look.

 

[MikePro]

I love my Z-extrusion! miter-cut your corners, zip the frame to the wall, and slide your panels right on in. Only 4 finishing screws or rivots exposed on the side of the end-caps, and the rest gets concealed within your frame / under your panels. Comes delivered, anodized, in 20' sticks. just stinks when i don't use it all, and the shop kid unknowingly stacks more metal tubing on it in the racks.... one scuff in the anodized aluminum and i'm painting my next project

Anyways, at that point, I just join my panels with scrap aluminum and VHB tape on the backside. Frame holds it and the "join" keeps the panels from buckling away from each other.
Just make sure you lay some paint/vinyl in a stripe where your seam is... you'd be surprised how much light will reflect off metal, even in the slimmest of gaps in seams, when you catch it at just the right angle.

catches a "sign guy's eye" like trans.vinyl falling just short of overlapping the next layer

 

[jfiscus]

Your sign is going to look off-center if you're leaving one panel 10x5 & cutting the other to 8x5. Cut both to 9x5 so that your seam is in the center. (forget the waste; you've already figured that into the costs for the job)

I cut the two pieces separately for each side of the sign in Illustrator with about 1" overlap on the seam edge and install the first panel, then I use my large table to sit the two panels beside each other so that the seam/edge/material all line up correctly and tape the 2nd piece down. Then remove the first panel and apply the 2nd substrate.

Are you doing the install? You need some treated 2x4's and good anchors; first mount all of these to the building studs and then you can screw the panels to these boards. Makes the large sign panel install easy & easy to replace if the customer ever wants to change a panel.

Here is a 5x24 from a few months ago & a sign from a previous employer where I used the same process (red/orange/blue cut vinyl on white; two 7x5 panels to make a 5x14')

Also, always paint your screw heads to match.

 

[phototec]

Your sign is going to look off-center if you're leaving one panel 10x5 & cutting the other to 8x5. Cut both to 9x5 so that your seam is in the center. (forget the waste; you've already figured that into the costs for the job)

I cut the two pieces separately for each side of the sign in Illustrator with about 1" overlap on the seam edge and install the first panel, then I use my large table to sit the two panels beside each other so that the seam/edge/material all line up correctly and tape the 2nd piece down. Then remove the first panel and apply the 2nd substrate.

Are you doing the install? You need some treated 2x4's and good anchors; first mount all of these to the building studs and then you can screw the panels to these boards. Makes the large sign panel install easy & easy to replace if the customer ever wants to change a panel.

Here is a 5x24 from a few months ago & a sign from a previous employer where I used the same process (red/orange/blue cut vinyl on white; two 7x5 panels to make a 5x14')

Also, always paint your screw heads to match.

Thanks for the info, although metal frames look good and add to the over all appearance of a sign, many times clients just don't want to pay for the added expense. I think the treated 2x's would be a great alternative, for mounting the aluminum panels as you suggested.

I really like the red/orange/blue cut vinyl on white sign in your photo, can I ask what size was the vinyl and HOW you applied the cut vinyl, in the reflection you can see it is applied perfectly (no bubbles), looks like screen printing.

Did you have to splice the vinyl, and if you did, how much do you overlap?

 

[jfiscus]

Thanks for the info, although metal frames look good and add to the over all appearance of a sign, many times clients just don't want to pay for the added expense. I think the treated 2x's would be a great alternative, for mounting the aluminum panels as you suggested.

I really like the red/orange/blue cut vinyl on white sign in your photo, can I ask what size was the vinyl and HOW you applied the cut vinyl, in the reflection you can see it is applied perfectly (no bubbles), looks like screen printing.

Did you have to splice the vinyl, and if you did, how much do you overlap?

Thankfully, on this sign the bottom area was separate from the top area (white line running horizontally). A little design tweak that saved a PITA install. This was 48" wide vinyl material. I overlapped about 1/16" on the colors; thankfully they had 3 of these large signs, 6 trucks and 4 or so trailers that all received the same cut vinyl colors. (those big rolls are pricey)

The vinyl was applied wet with rapid-tack on the red sign's panels.

On the white sign the vinyl was applied dry with 1/8" overlap is specific areas of the big circle to minimize overlap visibility.

It's not too hard; most important part is to be SURE your panels meet up exactly, if they end up being a bit off, make a small manual exacto adjustment to one of the panels.