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just got our new xc-540!!!!
- Thread starter petepaz
- Start date
petepaz
New Member
thanks artbot
i will check it out but we have been looking into this for about 5 years now
and for the price it seemed like the best machine for us
i know there are some issues if you don't use the white alot and you have to shake the cartridge everyday and the shelf life isn't that long
but we will probably use the the white 4-5 jobs a week if not more
worse case if the white doesn't work out we put in the light cyan and light magenta and we still got a fast printer
(we traded in our sp300 )
i will check it out but we have been looking into this for about 5 years now
and for the price it seemed like the best machine for us
i know there are some issues if you don't use the white alot and you have to shake the cartridge everyday and the shelf life isn't that long
but we will probably use the the white 4-5 jobs a week if not more
worse case if the white doesn't work out we put in the light cyan and light magenta and we still got a fast printer
(we traded in our sp300 )
cgsigns_jamie
New Member
I LOVE our XC-540... next printer will be a Roland XJ or AJ for sure.
The things are built like tanks and just work, everyday!!
The things are built like tanks and just work, everyday!!
Slamdunkpro
New Member
I don't think you can switch out the white once it's installed.
jasonx
New Member
That's incorrect you can switch back.
I have an XC540W and the people who post about problems etc don't own the machine.
I've had my machine a year running Roland inks and haven't had a problem.
Yeh the ink renewals can be a pain but they keep the heads clear.
Also have an XJ640 now that's a machine.
artbot
New Member
i run my white to my jv3 160sp through and auxiliary line. with cleaning solution running straight as the common fluid. i run white about three or four times a month. when i do, i run white a for the entire day.
couple pointers if you are going to run white either standard or auxiliary. transfer the white to a clear cartridge. it is difficult to "shake" mix the white without a visual reference of how well you are doing. with the clear cartridge you can lean it back and forth to see that the settlement is gone. also, because of so much agitation the internal bag kind of bothers me. just too fragile for some much shaking (for me). also, the white has TiO2 straight particles. these particles will settle (at least with mimaki) in your head adapter eventually restricting flow. the filter in the head adapter is much more fine than the damper. i'm planning on buying some extremely fine inline filters for that head. so i can no worry so much about pulling a head to change out an adapter. so for now... buy some spare head adapters $15 each from china.
also, setting the machine in white mode i've been told from the firmware makes the machine do more routine cleans (don't know if this is true). but expect it to throw away a lot of ink. my mimaki started from the install set for CMYKlmlcWW. so i can't tell what the difference is.
if you ever clean out a line holding white, clean it out until it is very clean. the white will plaque up on the line and never ever come out. except for as small particles. it can't "melt" in this sediment form. it is unlike printed white with the resin binders.
i bought my 160sp specifically to run white, uv clear, and silver alongside my CMYK i even have water based for rapid prototyping, running to the lm lc head right now so i have four special color channels (you can isolate the lm lc just like the WW by doing a date ribbon swap with WW).
any way i can go on and on with the white ink stuff. i've been printing white one way or another for the last 10 years (even from an old encad 505). maybe roland is easier, maybe i'm doing it wrong. but that's my two cents.
in the next while i'm going to replumb my heads so i can have an automatic cleaning system on the printer. that way i can with a valve switch between cleaning solution or ink right at the head below the damper. i'll send pics when my franken-printer is modified.
couple pointers if you are going to run white either standard or auxiliary. transfer the white to a clear cartridge. it is difficult to "shake" mix the white without a visual reference of how well you are doing. with the clear cartridge you can lean it back and forth to see that the settlement is gone. also, because of so much agitation the internal bag kind of bothers me. just too fragile for some much shaking (for me). also, the white has TiO2 straight particles. these particles will settle (at least with mimaki) in your head adapter eventually restricting flow. the filter in the head adapter is much more fine than the damper. i'm planning on buying some extremely fine inline filters for that head. so i can no worry so much about pulling a head to change out an adapter. so for now... buy some spare head adapters $15 each from china.
also, setting the machine in white mode i've been told from the firmware makes the machine do more routine cleans (don't know if this is true). but expect it to throw away a lot of ink. my mimaki started from the install set for CMYKlmlcWW. so i can't tell what the difference is.
if you ever clean out a line holding white, clean it out until it is very clean. the white will plaque up on the line and never ever come out. except for as small particles. it can't "melt" in this sediment form. it is unlike printed white with the resin binders.
i bought my 160sp specifically to run white, uv clear, and silver alongside my CMYK i even have water based for rapid prototyping, running to the lm lc head right now so i have four special color channels (you can isolate the lm lc just like the WW by doing a date ribbon swap with WW).
any way i can go on and on with the white ink stuff. i've been printing white one way or another for the last 10 years (even from an old encad 505). maybe roland is easier, maybe i'm doing it wrong. but that's my two cents.
in the next while i'm going to replumb my heads so i can have an automatic cleaning system on the printer. that way i can with a valve switch between cleaning solution or ink right at the head below the damper. i'll send pics when my franken-printer is modified.
artbot
New Member
here's a latest order that i printed white on. they are a process called digi-glass that i developed several years ago. it's a four layer system that looks like kiln fired glass on metal. you can see the white ink as the second above an image brushed into the metal (i use my homemade uv clear as a sanding mask for the metal). the top layer is an uv polyurethane casting of the image. i had to build a special coat/casting machine for that. so it's metal file, white file, color file, mold file. lot of file work. 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/alldredge/sets/72157623967262747/show/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/alldredge/sets/72157623967262747/show/
DRamm76
New Member
Glad you guys are happy with it. I've been talking with guys from Roland at the TyrrellTech show in MD and you'll have no issues with the switch man. We've got you covered!