JV150-130 Weird print issue.

[ckent]

I have an odd issue on the JV150-130. Basically at the same spot almost every time. It misfires. All positions just kind a spray. It could be immediately into the print it can be 6" up the print. But generally its in the same spot. I have been working with the guys over at SolventInk Jet. It was printing absolutely fine with the new head I purchased from them and now its doing this.
Here is what I have done:
-Re RIP the file
-Try different known good file
-checked USB Cable
-used a different usb cable
-printed with flexi
-printed with rasterlink
-checked for dust in connectors on slider board and head
-disconnected all head cables and reconnected
-disconnected all slider cables and reconnected at both ends
-replaced encoder strip
-replaced slider board to main board cables "trailing cables"
*currently waiting on head cables - should be here today

See the images below. The first is the worst one I have seen.



The second image is generally how it looks, 99% of the time its on the further end of the machine which is why I replaced things that move. Occasionally 1 or 2 times it was at the other end towards the capping station.


After it does this the print is pretty bad with streaking and not coloring in the lines so to speak. Just want to see if anyone else seen this. Still plan on working with SolventInk Jet guys as they have been great. Going to replace the head cables today when they get here. Anybody got any ideas. Next might be slider board or mainboard?

 

[ckent]

Update, New head cables did not solve the problem. Not sure where to go next.

It did it again around the same spot. As a note where it did it this time it shouldnt have been printing at all.

 

[Rusty B]

I dont own this brand if printer but I had an issue on my mutoh before and I swapoed head cables as well. Turns out i had a dirty encoder strip. I also have similar issues when the ramp on my printhead gets gummed up with ink and i have to remove them and clean them. Just some things to look at. Good luck solving your issue.

 

[StephenOrange]

I’ll bet good money on the heads being the issue. Possibly bad inks - I’ve had similar looking results years ago on a latex and it was bad aftermarket inks. But your problem really, really looks head related. If possible, swop that head out and install new dampers (just incase), and I’m sure the issue will disappear.
BTW - are you 100% sure the capping station is sealing perfectly and the system is cleaning everything properly? What does the head surface look like?

 

[ckent]

I’ll bet good money on the heads being the issue. Possibly bad inks - I’ve had similar looking results years ago on a latex and it was bad aftermarket inks. But your problem really, really looks head related. If possible, swop that head out and install new dampers (just incase), and I’m sure the issue will disappear.
BTW - are you 100% sure the capping station is sealing perfectly and the system is cleaning everything properly? What does the head surface look like?

It has a new head in it replaced in November I think. Inks are all official Mimaki. I sure hope its not a head, I dont have another one and $3k is a lot for us as we are just starting out.

 

[Plotter-FIX]

Hey Hey,
How does nozzle Test Look like?
How old are the inks?
Die you Clean the encoder stripe?

 

[ckent]

Hey Hey,
How does nozzle Test Look like?
How old are the inks?
Die you Clean the encoder stripe?

Nozzle test looks perfect.
Inks are a month or so old
Yes cleaned encoder and actually replaced it.

 

[StephenOrange]

It has a new head in it replaced in November I think. Inks are all official Mimaki. I sure hope its not a head, I dont have another one and $3k is a lot for us as we are just starting out.

I feel your pain about the money! But a head replaced in November isn’t new-new. If it’s an original Roland head then they should be onboard with testing another head that’s out of the box new. If it’s aftermarket head, ie: not through Roland then ouch, you might need to cough up.
The head could have sustained electrical damage that could be the issue. I hope not for your sake.
Have you tried another head assembly board?

 

[ckent]

I feel your pain about the money! But a head replaced in November isn’t new-new. If it’s an original Roland head then they should be onboard with testing another head that’s out of the box new. If it’s aftermarket head, ie: not through Roland then ouch, you might need to cough up.
The head could have sustained electrical damage that could be the issue. I hope not for your sake.
Have you tried another head assembly board?

I assume you mean the slider board? No have not tried that just yet. I have dampers that I could replace it just does not look like a damper issue to me though.

 

[StephenOrange]

I assume you mean the slider board? No have not tried that just yet. I have dampers that I could replace it just does not look like a damper issue to me though.

Yeah, dampers is a bit of a stretch. But if they’re clogged and creating back pressure then the caps and pumps might not be able to clean properly, which could give you the current results. Maybe replace a matching pair of colours from the same ink line, run a long soak, couple of cleans and check again.
Are you 100% sure the caps are sealing properly and there is good vacuum being created by the pumps?? The more I look at your prints the more I’m leaning toward a cleaning issue.

 

[ckent]

Yeah, dampers is a bit of a stretch. But if they’re clogged and creating back pressure then the caps and pumps might not be able to clean properly, which could give you the current results. Maybe replace a matching pair of colours from the same ink line, run a long soak, couple of cleans and check again.
Are you 100% sure the caps are sealing properly and there is good vacuum being created by the pumps?? The more I look at your prints the more I’m leaning toward a cleaning issue.

Yeah the caps appear to be sealing properly. The print only gets bad after it does the misfire. Until it does that it is perfect and the test print is perfect.

 

[ckent]

Yeah, dampers is a bit of a stretch. But if they’re clogged and creating back pressure then the caps and pumps might not be able to clean properly, which could give you the current results. Maybe replace a matching pair of colours from the same ink line, run a long soak, couple of cleans and check again.
Are you 100% sure the caps are sealing properly and there is good vacuum being created by the pumps?? The more I look at your prints the more I’m leaning toward a cleaning issue.

Based on your comment of pair of matching colors I saw that a yellow and blue were swapped. on the right side. It has been this way since I owned it. Looking in the service manual this is not correct.

The colors were from left to right facing the front of the machine.
[Magenta/Cyan] [Yellow/Black], [Black, Cyan], [Yellow, Magenta] the numbers on the tags appeared to be correct with the service manual and the test print was proper. but the last cyan and yellow colors are swapped.
Again from left to right facing machine test print was Magenta, cyan, yellow, black, black, yellow, cyan, magenta.

I decided I was going to make it proper according to service manual for 4 color ss21.
[Magenta/Cyan] [Yellow/Black], [Black/Yellow], [Cyan/Magenta]
Now the test print prints left to right facing front of machine. Magenta, cyan yellow, black, black, cyan, yellow, magenta.

There has to be a place to change the damper to be correct. I am in service mode and have the service manual but cannot find where to change it anyone have any ideas? I am assuming its in the #parameters section but its all gibberish in there. The service manual is not exactly great either.

After I fix this issue I will go and change all the dampers. Just figured it should be how the manual says its supposed to be for trouble shooting purposes.

 

[StephenOrange]

But the machine was printing right colour-wise, so why swop and mix the colours in the head? The manual might be showing a test pattern for a different firmware version also. This wouldn’t cause a sudden printhead behavior change either.
Test pattern makes perfect sense as it is anyway. Printer will fire in sequence the one direction and then swop that sequence on the return to minimise the “bowling green” effect (or whatever name you are familiar with.)
I simply meant replacing dampers on a common ink feed line (eg. a yellow line that then might y-split to the two yellow printheads. )

 

[ckent]

No big deal to switch it back but just thought it should match the setup in the manual. There has got to be a setting to change it. I figure the line was connected improperly at the other end. But thought there might be something in the settings to change it to be correct.

 

[Pine]

Hi,
Check if the printer has a good electrical ground.
You can also just add one by connecting a wire between the metal of printer chassis a Metalic water pipe.
Have had success with Roland using this technique.

 

[ckent]

Hi,
Check if the printer has a good electrical ground.
You can also just add one by connecting a wire between the metal of printer chassis a Metalic water pipe.
Have had success with Roland using this technique.

Ground appears to be fine, tested continuity and voltage. I dont have a metalic water pipes. But my antistatic tinsel is also grounded to an outlet.