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JV33 pros and cons

Letterbox Mike

New Member
What rip are you running? Sounds like your technicians are idiots. We run translucent material regularly without a problem, it prints great, including spot colors. We also run regular vinyl non-stop, again, prints great. If your rip or your profiles suck, your prints will suck. If you don't know how to operate the printer or the rip, your prints will suck. You might want to consider trying to find another technician who knows what they're doing and paying them to come train you and set up your rip and color workflow properly. There's nothing wrong with your printer.
 

Morph1

Print all
I use scanvec for rip and oracle ssII for color profile , and by the way the color profile has nothing to do with banding calibration my friend,
I can not eliminate banding at all, eather magenta will be off or black will be off it's like you can compensate for one and you get the bad result in the other..., I love the speed of this machine but, and yes I do print on opaque vinyls all the time and the print is acceptable but is not perfect, I seen Roland doing much better job, especially printing solid spot colors.
The prints look great when I print a busy photo base image., trust me I do not need training lol I have been in the industry for the past 17 years, this printer is shot , like I said I don't bad mouth the brand I am disappointed with the printer we've got .
and btw, http://www.signs101.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50169 this seems like the most common problem with monkey fixes around.
 
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Morph1

Print all
1.) number of pass: how many pass when printing on vinyl sticker, and when printing on backlit material? 4, 6, 8 or 16 pass for vinyl, depending on the intended viewing distance and profile, 4 pass on banner material, typically 8 or 16 pass double-layer for translucent material.

Man , yeah the print looks great printing 16 passes, but what do you do when you gotta fill out with color the entire a 4 ft x 40 ft back lit exterior sign face ??? ya gonna print 16 pass double strike ??? that would take about 2 days of production for just one sign face.... totally inefficient.,
I seen printers shoot that in 6 pass mode 1 ink layer and the print contrast hardly differed from the day/night viewing.
Mimaki is not designed to print well translucent vinyls - waste of time.
Best method so far I found is 360 or 540 x 1080 x 6 pass double strike,
you can callibrate density ink levels in the linearization tab, 60%cmyk good result.

hope this helps.
 

Letterbox Mike

New Member
So which oracal profile are you using and what translucent media are you using? Profile absolutely can affect banding. If you're using the wrong profile for the media, that could be a big reason why you're seeing the issues you are. Can you post a picture of the banding you're experiencing?
 

Morph1

Print all
So which oracal profile are you using and what translucent media are you using? Profile absolutely can affect banding. If you're using the wrong profile for the media, that could be a big reason why you're seeing the issues you are. Can you post a picture of the banding you're experiencing?

It depends on your ink type , I use ssII inks and I use most of the time Oracle 3651 SSII 720 x 720 very nice tones in the images although matching pms colors will require a bit of color matching, no Profile is perfect and every profile will require color callibration...,
and regarding matching specific profiles to a specific substrates is a nonsense, I use this profile on all my media, doesn't matter banner, vinyl , flex face, justr control the ink density adequately, as for translucent media I use only clear cast vinyl (Arlon Dpf 6000 clear),
Color profile has nothing to do with banding, you adjust banding in your printer - banding is caused by the passes that your machine makes,
and the incremental ratio according to a print mode preset...,
Color profile justifies how accurate your tones and colors are and how much density the head lays down at given moment...,
My problem is not so much of banding I susually can adjust that that I am the only one that can see it lol, ..., the problem is streaking as I attached the link to the other thread, it is a big problem and no one seems to know why it happens, I was told that first JV3's mimaki had a main board problem, and there are parts avaialble for replacement...
but that's another story, if you don't have any streaking in your solid spot colors maybe you bought the printer with the newboard (upgraded newer components.)

Well hope it helps,

Cheers !
 

bmw_ante

New Member
i have the same problem with streaking, Mostly visible on blue and green .

it is just like every 8th pass gets lighter than the other passes
 

Vinylman

New Member
Did some of the posters here NOT READ that the discussion was about the JV33

That seems to me to change or nullify some of the comments posted to this thread.
JV3 JV33 Two different printers! :Oops:
 

koijoe

New Member
ast:
Based on my limited, but recent experience with my own JV33, I would say that some of your questions depend on what you are looking to accomplish with the printer.

You will be THRILLED :clapping:with the end results as long as you follow the manufacturers recommendations. {They built it, they know what works best}.

As for printing on banner stock, or opaque vinyl. Again following the manufactures recommendations has given me EXCELLENT results. As you get used to the printer you might want to try different settings for the same job, and print out test pieces for yourself to see what gives you what you want to sell.

We printed out a full PMS chart on several different materials so we could get a handle on what the output looked like compared to what your monitor was showing.

THAT WAS A REAL EYE OPENER!

On the issue of printing on clear, {or back lit} material. I am working with a sign manufacturer, and have found that "most" times doing a double pass on the ink set at 6 is usually giving me the best results. Again this can vary according to what "your customer" is looking for. Test pieces are very helpful in the beginning so you can have a point of reference.

I am using the Mamaki Rastelink Pro III rip. and find it perfectly fine for what I am printing.

One of the draw backs of Rasterlink is that it came with only ONE profile. But that ONE profile has allowed me to print everything I need to date without ANY problems.

There are a number of fine after market rips available, but for my current situation, it seems like overkill to buy the high end rips. Others here might disagree, and that is fine, but we are in the sign business, NOT THE FINE ARTS BUSINESS.
Most of the time I find that I try to justify the extra money I've spent on specialty items by telling anyone that will listen that " you need this to do that".
In actuality it boils down to trying to justify {to yourself, or someone else} that spending extra money on all the wizz bang extras was justified.:banghead:

I chose to run the CYMK double ink set up. Again because of what I was looking to print, this set up works best for me.

I have heard that the WHITE INK set up is not giving some of the users everything that they expected from the set up. you need to look at that issue carefully IF you see a need to print into that market niche.

Bets of luck with you purchase.:thumb:

Something to consider in these tough economic times: Does the volume of your current work justify spending $20-30,000 for a printer? And any other equipment that you need to supplement the printer? Not to mention the supplies to feed the little monster.:frustrated:

If you are buying this printer to "build" your business, you might do better outsourcing to a wholesaler that already has the equipment {and the inherent maintainance costs} until you can justify the cost of a new equipment payment.

Hope this helps a little!
Does anyone know an easy way to do pricing for a JV33 we have just bought one and need to have a quick and simple way of pricing jobs ie material cost per metre plus maximum cost if all four colours printed at 100% something like a spread sheet 1metre x machine width (1370) material (pvc, banner, paper etc) plus ink cost equals total.

We are new to this site and have found various posts both informative and amusing great site

Thanks
 

Dice

New Member
koijoe, I would suggest joining Signs101, there are topics on pricing if you join. No one will give you an answer to that question out in an open forum.
 
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