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Keeping it flat

Mark H

New Member
Hello flatbed masters!

Please share your tips & tricks to making sheets of media such as coroplast and foam core lay perfectly flat on the bed. When there is no bleed a little tape always does the trick but if there is a bleed I can't use tape. I'm sure there are many ways to correct the problem. Thanks. Have a great day.
 

DerbyCitySignGuy

New Member
Hello flatbed masters!

Please share your tips & tricks to making sheets of media such as coroplast and foam core lay perfectly flat on the bed. When there is no bleed a little tape always does the trick but if there is a bleed I can't use tape. I'm sure there are many ways to correct the problem. Thanks. Have a great day.

Just an issue with your table not having enough suction or is it warped material? If it's poor suction, tape off sections of the table with pre-mask that aren't covered by material. It'll increase the vacuum enough to hold down your material (make sure you leave a little room for the vacuum to suck in air though, you don't want to burn up your motor).

If the material is warped and just won't stay down, I've used double sided tape on occasion. Hate doing that though, since it can sometimes take a lot of work to get all the adhesive off the table (which you don't want on there for double sided jobs).
 

Mark H

New Member
Thanks for the reply. Not a suction problem, it's a brand new Mimaki. It's the material being a little warped. Often it's just a curled corner. I have limited storage space so I built an A-frame which keeps boards pretty flat.
 

Lane J

New Member
I agree with Gino. If I'm receiving warped foamcore or coroplast, it's going back.
Putting the concave side down on the vacuum table helps. Corners, I usually just press down until they lay flat. Depending on the thickness of the material, use masking tape to tape the sides to the table, sort of seal it. Always be careful with tape though!
 

DerbyCitySignGuy

New Member
Depending on who your vendor is, your insistence may not be met with any amount of seriousness, but Gino is right. The last thing you want to do is get a head strike that takes out a head (or all of the heads). I usually won't reject foamcore or coro if it's a little warped (unless I have to print double sided), but I will never ever run a piece of ACM or other rigid material that isn't perfectly flat. I'm not gonna take the chance of having to eat $80k in heads because a vendor can't keep their stock flat.
 

TimToad

Active Member
Even when our vacuum pulls down the sheet of coroplast perfectly, we still apply a couple pieces of masking tape along the edges but not over the top of the sheet, just to catch the bottom lip of the flutes on the edges.

Buying the "ultrasmooth" or direct print type of coroplast will usually ensure getting flatter sheets because of the corona treatment they receive that untreated panels don't get.

The head clearance on our machine is only 1/100th of an inch, so if ANYTHING is taped over the top edge, it could cause a headstrike. In those extreme cases where we have to run something taped over the top edge, we place a thin piece of .020 polystyrene on top of the sheet where the sensor comes down to measure the substrate thickness. As soon as the sensor comes down and measures the head height, we remove the spacer sheet and print. It fools the sensor into holding itself .020 higher than the actual substrate and avoids headstrikes.

Nearly all flatbeds generate some heat and that can warp a thin or semi-rigid panel like foamcore while its printing, so we use the double sided banner hem tape which is super sticky and peels right off the table without leaving residue.

In our case, our primary supplier only delivers sheet goods once a week and they consider anything less than a 1.5" warp to be acceptable. On deadline critical jobs we have to use our heads to get stuff to lay flat because replacements may not be coming for nearly a week.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
The other side of the coin is.................. Some distributors will say to you.... you're buying the cheapest and crappiest substrate on the market and you want it square ?? Flat ?? Clean ?? White Glove handling ?? Go get bent.
 

DerbyCitySignGuy

New Member
The other side of the coin is.................. Some distributors will say to you.... you're buying the cheapest and crappiest substrate on the market and you want it square ?? Flat ?? Clean ?? White Glove handling ?? Go get bent.

I had a distributor get upset with me for demanding square sheets of coro when we were paying extra for square sheets. You can't win 'em all.
 

TimToad

Active Member
Depending on who your vendor is, your insistence may not be met with any amount of seriousness, but Gino is right. The last thing you want to do is get a head strike that takes out a head (or all of the heads). I usually won't reject foamcore or coro if it's a little warped (unless I have to print double sided), but I will never ever run a piece of ACM or other rigid material that isn't perfectly flat. I'm not gonna take the chance of having to eat $80k in heads because a vendor can't keep their stock flat.

Whoa! What kind of machine has $80,000 worth of heads in it? I feel so much better paying only $1,350 for one.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Depends where one is buying them. Get them from the dealer and you'll pay dearly, Get them somewhere reputable and maybe pay a fraction of the dealership.
 

DerbyCitySignGuy

New Member
Whoa! What kind of machine has $80,000 worth of heads in it? I feel so much better paying only $1,350 for one.

VUTEk GS3250 has 18 (maybe 20? I should probably know that) heads at around $4k a pop. Price may have gone down some recently, haven't replaced a head in a good while.
 

Andy_warp

New Member
If you like your printheads, NOTHING is more important than controlling the environment and storage of your stock.

(16) $3000 heads here...

We print on a roll to roll with 126" sublimation paper, you can bet it's wrapped in shrink wrap within 5 minutes of print completion.
 

FutureSigns

New Member
I always lay it on the table, get at eye level and measure on the highest spot. Coro I tape the corners down with double sided tape if need be and measure out on that corner. When I am afraid I bump up the head height a couple clicks. If using only half of the table i lay down media that isn't as thick to cover the remaining vacuum holes on the table.
 
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