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l25500 greasy prints
- Thread starter ProWraps
- Start date
ForgeInc
New Member
We've never had this problem on our big latex, but we finesse the curing/drying temps a lot and also run Caldera.
One thing I will mention for anyone trying to print thin vinyls on latex, we invested in a separate dryer that we actually put on the outfeed side, then turn down our cure temps so thin vinyl doesn't curl or buckle. Works great.
One thing I will mention for anyone trying to print thin vinyls on latex, we invested in a separate dryer that we actually put on the outfeed side, then turn down our cure temps so thin vinyl doesn't curl or buckle. Works great.
National Sign Co. - Print
Merchant Member
"Control the rooms or printing is doomed."
Print environment is key to all.. May cost up front but well worth in the end!!
Rips, profiles and all are worthless without a controlled and consistant print flow..
Print environment is key to all.. May cost up front but well worth in the end!!
Rips, profiles and all are worthless without a controlled and consistant print flow..
BIG EASY DOES IT
New Member
I have had these greasy prints all the time.
A greasy feel means that the polymers in the ink haven't fully cured, as has basically been said before. Now, there are a few ways around this:
- Slow the printer down / increase the cure temp
- Laminate and wait (24-48 hours) for the ink to finish curing on its own
- Try a different profile or substrate
Since the latex ink contains almost no solvents, there's no danger of silvering or bubbling when laminating immediately, even if the ink is not 100% cured. It may look a little funny at first, but latex ink does cure (slowly) at room temperature and any oddness will straighten itself out after a while.
- Slow the printer down / increase the cure temp
- Laminate and wait (24-48 hours) for the ink to finish curing on its own
- Try a different profile or substrate
Since the latex ink contains almost no solvents, there's no danger of silvering or bubbling when laminating immediately, even if the ink is not 100% cured. It may look a little funny at first, but latex ink does cure (slowly) at room temperature and any oddness will straighten itself out after a while.
J Hill Designs
New Member
:ROFLMAO: so you can lam right away but then have to wait anyway
Where do you get that from? I've seen latex (and SEPIAX) prints that were completely wet to the touch when they came off, and were completely cured a few days later just by sitting at ambient temperatures.
I've also seen dripping wet solvent prints cure after sitting out for a while.
Even normal water based inks dry/cure at room temperature.
So where is this coming from? Half of the issue with latex ink is that you need heat to make the water and co-solvents in the ink evaporate, so that it doesn't drip off the material. The other half is the polymerization of the "latex" resins, which occurs at room temperature but is greatly accelerated by heat.
Evaporation can be blocked by an overlaminate, but if the ink isn't running, then all of the water and co-solvents have already evaporated. A greasy feel indicates that the polymerization of the resins hasn't finished. You don't need air to complete that process, only time (and heat, if you want to speed it up).
Forge,
I think this is good advice you are giving on the separate dryer. Can I ask what kind of dryer you got? I noticed that most problems (when ink does not cure and banding problems too) occurs on the right side of my printer. Right side, meaning me standing in front of it, so my right side.
If I got an extra dryer like you are suggesting, from my description of where the problem area is, where would you say I should place my dryer? Thanks!
PROWRAPS...How is it going? Were you able to get anywhere with the greasy print problem? Hope so!
Latigo
New Member
We have ours in a clean room, double intake filters, strong evacuation fan that doesn't kick in till the heat is up to 84. Perfect prints on any substrate and never a problem. This week we begin to print on fabric for flags.
We have a 56" wide DigiDry that we can use at the input feed on our Laminator.
We have a 56" wide DigiDry that we can use at the input feed on our Laminator.
Latigo, thanks for the info on DigiDry. I own a BBC flash, great product! I had another one before this one, it was great too. So, I'm sure your drier is of the same quality since it is made by same people.
Regarding the fabric for flags. I've been on the hunt there, as I need to do flags too. It appears that HP has discontinued their flag product that they were offering for the HP L25500, at least that is what I was told. I do not find it readily available, just a few rolls here and there and the price really fluctuates. Suppliers that do have the HP stuff are very low on inventory. I am trying to nail down something that will be available, not discontinued. What flag fabric are you using? Thank you again!
cooltouch
New Member
I have a l25500 and had a bunch of problems in the beginning with drying. Time wont fix it. Only heat will. We didnt have a profile for the mpi2611 wall vinyl and had to heat gun the entire wall. And we let the prints try to dry over a few days before heat guns. Call your local supplier who handles your hp and tell them you want the updated profiles. Or you can check hp's website for profiles. If anything looks greasy, turn up the heat and or cure a few degrees.
