Laminating large sheets of corrugated plastic

[Mark H]

Hello,

I am printing (UV) 6 large panels 43"x84" that fit together to make a large billboard on the back of a building. I do not have a laminator and was going to roll them with Frog Juice. Are there any other suggestions?

Thanks

 

[henryz]

How about cold lam with wet application?

 

[unclebun]

If you're trying to make something durable, why are you using Coroplast?

 

[Mark H]

I am using coroplast because that is what is up there now, coro panels that were hand painted. They have been you there for years.

 

[Mark H]

How about cold lam with wet application?

I am not sure how to do that. Please direct me to suppliers, youtube video, anything that will help.

Thanks

 

[TimToad]

I'm not sure its worth the extra effort. The Coroplast is going to deteriorate and start breaking up before your print starts to fade, so why even bother?

Just because an inferior product was present or chosen before doesn't mean we shouldn't at least try to upsell the customer into a better material. Our supplier charges us $28.00 for 6mm Coroplast and they offer a 5 year ACM panel for $46. It's hard to believe that a client wouldn't want to spend $150 extra to get a dramatically better product. For six full sheets of coroplast, you'll likely use a gallon of Frog Juice which is around $100.

 

[Brandon708]

Hello,

I am printing (UV) 6 large panels 43"x84" that fit together to make a large billboard on the back of a building. I do not have a laminator and was going to roll them with Frog Juice. Are there any other suggestions?

Thanks

Frog Juice is the only option if you don't know how to cold laminate. Like others said before don't even laminate it because the material you are printing on will not outlast the ink. I'd suggest ACM to it looks semi professional and flat.

OR better yet do a vinyl banner that is 84" x 258" which would cost you $150 from a wholesaler.

 

[henryz]

I am not sure how to do that. Please direct me to suppliers, youtube video, anything that will help.

Thanks

You can use Oracal overlaminate film and apply it with water and soap like vinyl or preference of material.

 

[eahicks]

I'm not sure its worth the extra effort. The Coroplast is going to deteriorate and start breaking up before your print starts to fade, so why even bother?

Just because an inferior product was present or chosen before doesn't mean we shouldn't at least try to upsell the customer into a better material. Our supplier charges us $28.00 for 6mm Coroplast and they offer a 5 year ACM panel for $46. It's hard to believe that a client wouldn't want to spend $150 extra to get a dramatically better product. For six full sheets of coroplast, you'll likely use a gallon of Frog Juice which is around $100.

Correct. Why replace crap with more crap?

 

[Mark H]

Ok, thanks for ask the advice. I'm switching to MaxMetal. It will be UV printed, should I still use Frog Juice?

 

[Pixels Are Bad Mmmkay?]

As was mentioned, Mark, banners are another good option. You can always try to upsell them on a banner frame system such as a Clips-In frame or Lind Sign Spring system. Two completely different systems, but both give a very professional look to your banner installation and a 15 oz. banner properly tensioned on a banner frame will last a very long time. Banners are cheap to replace and the installation and removal is so easy, the customer can opt to do it themselves and save a lot of money down the road. This is more or less how modern billboard installations are done. I wouldn't use coroplast for anything but yard signs, with maybe a few rare exceptions, personally.

 

[Brandon708]

Ok, thanks for ask the advice. I'm switching to MaxMetal. It will be UV printed, should I still use Frog Juice?

I wouldn't. I'm pretty sure what was up there wasn't laminated in anyway either. Only way I would even consider lam is if it was facing south.

 

[TimToad]

Ok, thanks for ask the advice. I'm switching to MaxMetal. It will be UV printed, should I still use Frog Juice?

Without knowing your equipment or the ink longevity on your flatbed, its kind of hard. We're running an old Gerber ION Solara and have lots of work out there in a hyper UV setting that is five years old or older and still holding up without much fading.

What direction will the signs be facing?

What colors will you be printing?

What is the client expecting as far as longevity goes?

 

[Mark H]

Without knowing your equipment or the ink longevity on your flatbed, its kind of hard. We're running an old Gerber ION Solara and have lots of work out there in a hyper UV setting that is five years old or older and still holding up without much fading.

What direction will the signs be facing?

What colors will you be printing?

What is the client expecting as far as longevity goes?

Facing east, Blue and burnt orange, Mimaki JFX200. Sounds like I don't need to laminate or coat.

 

[TimToad]

Facing east, Blue and burnt orange, Mimaki JFX200. Sounds like I don't need to laminate or coat.

Even if the job calls for a specific pure blue, try and fortify that color with small percentages of the other 3 inks and that will greatly enhance longevity. A couple percentage points of the other three ink colors will not be noticed by anyone but the most skilled eye and it really makes a difference.

I liken it to giving the ink vitamins.

Does the JFX200 have a clearcoat feature on it or is that optional only?

 

[Brandon708]

It will be fine.

 

[Solventinkjet]

Does the JFX200 have a clearcoat feature on it or is that optional only?

It's an option but if you go with the white setup you might as well get it. When using white ink, 2 channels on 1 of the heads don't get used so you might as well put clear in them. Otherwise they put a magenta and cyan bottle in as a place holder and that ink just goes to waste.

 

[Mark H]

Even if the job calls for a specific pure blue, try and fortify that color with small percentages of the other 3 inks and that will greatly enhance longevity. A couple percentage points of the other three ink colors will not be noticed by anyone but the most skilled eye and it really makes a difference.

I liken it to giving the ink vitamins.

Does the JFX200 have a clearcoat feature on it or is that optional only?

I have white, white, clear, primer

 

[Mark H]

It's an option but if you go with the white setup you might as well get it. When using white ink, 2 channels on 1 of the heads don't get used so you might as well put clear in them. Otherwise they put a magenta and cyan bottle in as a place holder and that ink just goes to waste.

Even if the job calls for a specific pure blue, try and fortify that color with small percentages of the other 3 inks and that will greatly enhance longevity. A couple percentage points of the other three ink colors will not be noticed by anyone but the most skilled eye and it really makes a difference.

I liken it to giving the ink vitamins.

Does the JFX200 have a clearcoat feature on it or is that optional only?

Yes, I have whit, white, clear, primer

 

[Johnny Best]

I would use the suggestion of using a banner. Next you will be asking how to mount the ACM panels to the wall. A lot easier going the banner route as suggested in post #11.