Laminating UV Inks?

[TimToad]

These are for table tops in bars/restaurants and clear acrylic or polycarbonate is the most scratch prone material there is. Unfortunately they wouldn't last a week.



As mentioned above we initially tried the Clearshield hoping to avoid a laminator but it didn't work at all in the tests we did. It would literally peal right off the ink. =/

I only mentioned it because the "Production Clear" was described to me by the rep from Manabu as being tougher and being formulated specifically for UV inks.

Have you experimented with any clear epoxies?

 

[player]

Glass is always a winner.

 

[Brian27]

MacTac ColorGard LUV is what was recommended to me for use with our UV printer. It comes in 3 different sheens - matt, lustre, and gloss. It's supposed to be more flexible to go over the slightly raised UV print.

Yeah I see those on my sample chain. Those would be much more ideal since it's 1/4 the cost of the IP6200 they sent a sample of. Wish I'd gotten a sample of that to play with.

Spray on automotive clear?

If we're talking commercial furniture. Any vinyl laminate will scratch, rip and leave an adhesive residue. Clear acrylic you don't want. So my suggestions would be a hard, spray on clear.

We do have spray guns and auto paint but it's a huge ordeal to use it all. We're a wood/metal/acrylic shop and we'd need a dedicated paint booth just to keep the lingering dust and debri from getting into the paint.

I only mentioned it because the "Production Clear" was described to me by the rep from Manabu as being tougher and being formulated specifically for UV inks.

Have you experimented with any clear epoxies?

Hmm..what I ordered was "Marabu ClearShield Classic Matte" so maybe it's different stuff. I doubt it would have adhered to the melamine very well though since nothing does. I've yet to test the stuff mactac sent me on melamine but the IP6200 sticks to the UV ink like no tomorrow when nothing else has. Maybe that's why it's $600+ a roll.

Glass is always a winner.

You won't find glass in any bar/restaurant in the U.S. and for good reason. =D


Looks like I have a lot more research to do.

 

[Jburns]

This may be a naive question- but since you have a flatbed, and these are for table tops - I agree with Player- Glass will last.

So can you:
1. reverse print on glass, then underbase with white?
or
2. reverse print on clear vinyl, underbase in white, then apply to glass?

 

[player]

Use tempered glass...?

There are industrial clear coats that you could spray on that will be the hardest substance you will ever want. You will need very good protective equipment to use this stuff. Highly toxic.

 

[boxerbay]

this dont make any sense.

you say no acrylic because it scratches. but vinyl is ok? vinyl is worse than acrylic. do a second surface print on polycarbonate?

marabu waterbased and you think that will hold up to the abuse a table gets? peoples elbows/arms will wear off the coating especially along the edges.

Your going to either have to paint it with automotive acrylic enamel paint or pour clear resin over it.

 

[Brian27]

While I appreciate your guys' recommendations and ideas, glass is just not an option. Tempered or not. Besides the fact that glass tables can break glass beer bottles and wine glasses, it's a massive safety hazard which is why it's against many local restaurant safety codes to even have them.

Polycarbonate is more prone to scratches than acrylic.

The spraying option would probably be the most durable but at that point I might as well fork over the $1.30 a sq/ft for the durable floor graphic vinyl which what I will probably end up doing in the long run.

 

[DerbyCitySignGuy]

While I appreciate your guys' recommendations and ideas, glass is just not an option. Tempered or not. Besides the fact that glass tables can break glass beer bottles and wine glasses, it's a massive safety hazard which is why it's against many local restaurant safety codes to even have them.

Polycarbonate is more prone to scratches than acrylic.

The spraying option would probably be the most durable but at that point I might as well fork over the $1.30 a sq/ft for the durable floor graphic vinyl which what I will probably end up doing in the long run.

Your absolute best bet would be to use a resin or epoxy, similar to the stuff that's used to coat bar tops. Without knowing the exact specs of the table, I'm not sure if it's even an option, but that stuff will protect anything underneath it. Once it hardens, that's it.

They're usually two part epoxies or resins with hardeners. Can take up to a few hours or a few days to completely dry and harden, but it's pretty impressive stuff. I know of Ultra Clear and Kleer Coat for sure, but you can probably Google bar top resin or bar top epoxy and find dozens of different brands.

 

[Brian27]

Any of you guys heard of or have any experience with laminates from General Formations? My rep brought a small sticker sample in and it seems to resist abrasion much better than anything I've seen so far. It's designed for power sport/ATV/helmet decals.

 

[RyanFelty]

Mactac IMAGin series is what we use and it works great. We use a Satin and a textured for Tradeshow stuff. Good luck!

 

[SignMeUpGraphics]

Any of you guys heard of or have any experience with laminates from General Formations? My rep brought a small sticker sample in and it seems to resist abrasion much better than anything I've seen so far. It's designed for power sport/ATV/helmet decals.

GF make some decent media. We use their AutoMark (230/231 combo) for minor wraps and MotoMark for decals that will get a *lot* of abuse (12 mil/300 micron).

 

[Brian27]

GF make some decent media. We use their AutoMark (230/231 combo) for minor wraps and MotoMark for decals that will get a *lot* of abuse (12 mil/300 micron).

Good to hear. The MotoMark 238-12 is actually what my rep brought me and it looks and feels promising. I just hope it sticks to UV ink!