Laminator Issues

[HulkSmash]

Anyone out there have the master laminator/USTECH/DGI laminator? (same unit)
I have the TX-600H unit and i swear to god i'm going to go nuts trying to get this thing not to track.

Anyone have tips, or experience with getting this thing to laminate straight.

 

[ProColorGraphics]

Mine might sway a little at the start, like 1/8" to 1/4" max, but once I straighten it out (by sliding the roll of laminate slightly) it usually runs the rest of the way pretty good.

Do you run it over the table? I found my works best the following: I put the longest tube I had on the lower front roller, then place the printed media on the top one feeding down under the lower roller that back up into the laminator. (with the table off). I have the tension screws as loose as they'll go without falling off, which leaves just a little bit of tension (on my unit anyways).

 

[HulkSmash]

I do laminate on a table. DO you have a picture of your setup?

 

[InstantOneMedia]

The only issue we've had with ours was the chain slipping off the gears because the chain tension wasn't high enough. We make sure the rolls of lam and vinyl are rolled tightly before they're loaded. We also use a take-up reel we mounted to the wall nearby.

 

[rjssigns]

I have an RS and it was a battle until I figured out a few things.
Biggest one is making sure the lead edge is absolutely square to the edge of the material. Close does not count. Super close does not count. It has to be near perfection.

Then I learned a trick from a laminator sensei. Two layers of two inch masking tape 1/32" back fro the lead edge.
This does three things. First it makes the vinyl lay flat and virtually eliminates waves/bunching.

Second thing is it gives a reference line against the nip point. I feed the taped edge just until caught at the nip point. Then I stand to the side and sight down the top roller to the tape. If it looks square you're good to go.

Third bit is if it isn't square you can easily reverse. Laminate doesn't stick to masking tape.

Long sheets and full rolls need some time of feed system too. Some time ago I posted my Rube Goldberg infeed.

When all is said and done I can lam a 50yd roll within a 1/4". And it's done by what many here consider a junk laminator.

Remember kids, laminating is an art, not science. Until you take the time to figure out what your particular device wants you will fight a losing battle.

 

[AaronSSsignsKC]

Some of this could be un even pressure on the rollers, even new machines can come not calibrated right. Ask the supplier you got the machine from if they have a push pull gauge, I am not familiar with this exact machine but we use one a lot to keep roll pressure the same. It looks similar to a fish scale with a metal looking ruler on the end you let the lam run and feed the ruler in on the right edge right center center left center and left adjust pressure to the same with the roller adjustments on the machine given the machine you have lets you make those types of adjustments. If you keep it calibrated do it once a month or so at a minimum it really does help keep stuff feeding correct the slightest difference in pressure on one side will make material walk a ton.

Good luck hope this helps

 

[SightLine]

Might need to pull the side cover (control panel side) and adjust the upper roller to get it as level as possible. I've had to do that to ours a couple of times over the past couple of years. Overall I'm really happy with it though. I did modify the other side on ours as well to make the takeup roller run the other direction. The way it comes it rolls the material back up face in which really annoyed me. I posted it about it a few year back when I got ours. Essentially you relocate a couple of the gears so that you can route the chain on the other side of that pulley. We have literally run hundreds and hundred of full 54" and 60" rolls, roll to roll on ours with less than a quarter inch of drift.

On adjusting the level of the top roller, you will see the bolts to adjust that once you remove the side cover. I just raise the roller and then lower it back down until I just see the first edge touch. Then make and adjustment and raise/lower it again. Take about 2 tries and can get it perfect. Helps to have good light on the other side to see the gap when you do this. With this method you do not need any scales. PS - easy to drop the screws for the side cover down inside. Use a magnetic screwdriver to alleviate that...

 

[HulkSmash]

Might need to pull the side cover (control panel side) and adjust the upper roller to get it as level as possible. I've had to do that to ours a couple of times over the past couple of years. Overall I'm really happy with it though. I did modify the other side on ours as well to make the takeup roller run the other direction. The way it comes it rolls the material back up face in which really annoyed me. I posted it about it a few year back when I got ours. Essentially you relocate a couple of the gears so that you can route the chain on the other side of that pulley. We have literally run hundreds and hundred of full 54" and 60" rolls, roll to roll on ours with less than a quarter inch of drift.

On adjusting the level of the top roller, you will see the bolts to adjust that once you remove the side cover. I just raise the roller and then lower it back down until I just see the first edge touch. Then make and adjustment and raise/lower it again. Take about 2 tries and can get it perfect. Helps to have good light on the other side to see the gap when you do this. With this method you do not need any scales. PS - easy to drop the screws for the side cover down inside. Use a magnetic screwdriver to alleviate that...

I'm honestly just fed up with this piece of garbage. taking a Baseball bat to it right now. Ordering a GFP

 

[Pixels Are Bad Mmmkay?]

I'm honestly just fed up with this piece of garbage. taking a Baseball bat to it right now. Ordering a GFP

Ever thought about a RollsRoller or similar table? Tables will laminate and mount prints to boards fast as lightning without excess waste that you might encounter with a traditional laminator. The only bad thing is you're pretty much limited by the width and length of the table as to what you can laminate.

 

[SIGNTIME]

if the rollers are crowned make sure your laminate and media is centered in the rollers

 

[HulkSmash]

Ever thought about a RollsRoller or similar table? Tables will laminate and mount prints to boards fast as lightning without excess waste that you might encounter with a traditional laminator. The only bad thing is you're pretty much limited by the width and length of the table as to what you can laminate.

We're a very high production shop, laminating multiple rolls at a time. That unit won't cut it.

 

[Pixels Are Bad Mmmkay?]

We're a very high production shop, laminating multiple rolls at a time. That unit won't cut it.

And you probably do more wraps than signs, as well. Just figured I'd throw that out there.

 

[2B]

the Kala Mistral 1650 65" Laminator is supposed to be an auto tracking / correcting laminator..
At least that is what I was told when at a trade show

 

[fresh]

Are your rollers burnished? We noticed recently that the outer edges of the rollers were grippy-er than where the material feeds. I'm pretty sure the paper backing of the vinyl has ever so slightly buffed the rollers a bit. We just started installing the laminate roll an inch over from where we used to put it, and we haven't had problems tracking. That being said, we rarely run an entire roll at once.

 

[Christian @ 2CT Media]

Check out the Kala Mistrals, it is a big step up from GFP.

 

[netsol]

rjs

any chance you can repost your infeed design?
i have been looking for that post

we have 2 daige's. (38" quick mount 2 & 55" as well as a seal 44" we currently have in storage because not enough free space)

we will be opening my "retirement business" next month after acquiring and refurbishing equipment for 3 yrs.

we made an infeed for the 38" daige but could use improvement

I have an RS and it was a battle until I figured out a few things.
Biggest one is making sure the lead edge is absolutely square to the edge of the material. Close does not count. Super close does not count. It has to be near perfection.

Then I learned a trick from a laminator sensei. Two layers of two inch masking tape 1/32" back fro the lead edge.
This does three things. First it makes the vinyl lay flat and virtually eliminates waves/bunching.

Second thing is it gives a reference line against the nip point. I feed the taped edge just until caught at the nip point. Then I stand to the side and sight down the top roller to the tape. If it looks square you're good to go.

Third bit is if it isn't square you can easily reverse. Laminate doesn't stick to masking tape.

Long sheets and full rolls need some time of feed system too. Some time ago I posted my Rube Goldberg infeed.

When all is said and done I can lam a 50yd roll within a 1/4". And it's done by what many here consider a junk laminator.

Remember kids, laminating is an art, not science. Until you take the time to figure out what your particular device wants you will fight a losing battle.