• I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...

Layering ACM for 3D look

signs_welly

signs_welly

Currently flying by the seat of my pants
I have a design in my head that would involve layering two pieces of custom cut ACM on top of each other. I can't think of any reason why this wouldn't work but I haven't seen any examples of it done. Maybe I'm just using the wrong search terms.

Has anyone done this and if so, would you share pictures? If there's some reason that I'm missing as to why this isn't done, please let me know.

Thanks.
 
WYLDGFI

WYLDGFI

Merchant Member
Are you ok with the edges looking the way they do if layered? Or are you doing some sort of capping on it?
 
signs_welly

signs_welly

Currently flying by the seat of my pants
WYLDGFI said:
Are you ok with the edges looking the way they do if layered? Or are you doing some sort of capping on it?
Click to expand...

I'm okay with the edges as they are. It's for an entry sign to a polo field so not too many up close inspections. The edges are pretty smooth when we cut them with the CNC and a light sanding usually takes care of any sharp bits. The sign happens to be black and white as well so no issue with the black layer showing through. I'm attaching my initial concept - thinking of cutting out that ribbon part and applying over the circle. Maybe also contour cutting the logo in the center to make that pop out as well.
 

Attachments

  • GrandChampions_LayeredSign-01.jpg
    GrandChampions_LayeredSign-01.jpg
    894.4 KB · Views: 383
Gino

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Perhaps, down in Florida it might work, but not up north. Rain, ice and snow would get behind it and force it apart. Not to mention, in warm weather, it will probably warp, unless you have the entire backside adhered 100% all around. Physical fasteners would be best for this as most glues and adhesives will react at a different rate than the aluminum.
 
signs_welly

signs_welly

Currently flying by the seat of my pants
unclebun said:
3mm isn't going to give you much of a 3D effect. The 6mm will give some, but not much. Here's a sign where we made a 1" difference in level using square tubing. All faces made of 3mm ACM.
View attachment 150642
Click to expand...

Exactly what I'm looking for! Thanks. Yes, I'm thinking 6mm ACM. We're in South Florida so not sure how the heat would affect it - will look into how to fasten it, I was thinking VHB tape or silicone but maybe some bolts to reinforce it.
 
P

peterprintingparty

New Member
Grey VHB is what we've always gone to for ACM, it's meant to bond to metal. Also, we've use 3M 467 putting two pieces of ACM together for a really specific job for a picky customer.

edit: These have always been for indoor signs.
 
Z SIGNS

Z SIGNS

New Member
Your not going to get much of a dimensional look layering even the thickest ACM. Since this is a print you can create a very convincing illusion of dimension Shadows etc. It will make a better looking sign than going through the hassle of layering that does nothing.
 
S

signman315

Signmaker
Gino said:
Perhaps, down in Florida it might work, but not up north. Rain, ice and snow would get behind it and force it apart. Not to mention, in warm weather, it will probably warp, unless you have the entire backside adhered 100% all around. Physical fasteners would be best for this as most glues and adhesives will react at a different rate than the aluminum.
Click to expand...
Upstate NY here and if you put a bead of silicon/lexel around the perimeter before you adhere them together then you're good to go. We use Tesa tapes highest quality outdoor two sided tape to adhere them together, surround the perimeter with lexel to protect the Tesa and prevent water from separating them. If possible we'll throw a screw here or there for extra precaution. But if I was working this project I would mount the secondary ACM pieces to the background using standoffs, more dimensional look and mechanical fastening, all issues solved and looks pretty too :)
 
John_Smith

John_Smith

Enjoying retirement in Central Florida
I guess I never graduated from "Old School" and still do everything by hand.
if this were my project, I would cut the ribbon from 1/4" PVC, engrave it, and heat-bend
it to shape with a heat gun.
South Florida has no fear of the freeze/thaw syndrome.
Welly - the search term you are looking for is "Boat Name Banner" that are carved 3-D.
I do not use a CNC so I don't know how you will be making your sign.
but I have done a lot of "Hand Crafted" dimensional work over the years.
and if it were in the customers budget, I would show them what their sign would look like
if the whole project was made 3-D = like the US Coast Guard sign pictured below.
here are a few examples:
USAF.jpg


ALLONS.jpg


USCG Training Center.jpg


Yorktown USCG.jpg
 
Last edited:
signbrad

signbrad

New Member
We do stuff like this frequently.

It's good to remember, though, that many of the ACM brands are rated as 5-year substrates. For example, Polymetal, by Nudo, carries a 5 year "limited" warranty, when I last looked on their website. I have seen ACM seriously delaminate when used for routered faces on internally-illuminated signs.
So, you will not get the life out of ACM that you would get out of .080" aluminum painted with polyurethanes. If you are okay with that, your design should look great. And it will still weather better than MDO, which was our go-to choice for a sign like this 20 and 30 years ago.

Also, if you put fasteners through the face of ACM, stainless is not a good choice. There is a serious galvanic reaction between stainless and aluminum. The aluminum is so thin on an ACM panel that a stainless screw can create a halo of corrosion around a screw head in a matter of weeks (not always). An aluminum or galvanized fastener is a better choice than stainless.
In many applications where high humidity is present (indoor pools, for example), engineers require a stainless fastener to be insulated from an aluminum bracket by a nylon washer.

Have fun!
Brad in Kansas City
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top