Logo guidelines specifies a pantone color but...

[myront]

I was given a logo along with the guidelines. Aks for a Pantone 185. That's it. Isn't it important to specify whether it's "C", "CP", "U", etc?
I like to refer to my Pantone book to reference the rgb color formula as usually the final for print will be a 150dpi rgb tif. And the actual pantone doesn't always translate the same when converted by the design program then again by the RIP software.
Sometimes I'll leave the pantone colors and just make a pdf. But only if it makes for a small file.

 

[shoresigns]

If the brand manual you were given just says 185, that's actually the best way to spec a Pantone colour for a brand. The suffixes are for different types/formulas of inks that are all meant to produce roughly the same colour.

Now, in reality, a 185 C, 185 U, 185 CP and 185 UP all look a little different, but C (coated) seems to have become the de facto standard above the other suffixes, so that's what we use as our main point of reference for everything, since signs are not printed on any of the materials that those suffixes are meant for (i.e. paper).

 

[myront]

I figured that was the case. I'm using the pantone color 185 C and will export for print as a pdf.
When we ask as customer to pick a color from the pantone chart they will pick either the C or CP. So since we don't always use pdf for print we have to input the formulas according to the book instead of relying on the software's interpretation. If they choose the C side and all is vector & without gradients then I'll print an eps with preserving colors otherwise an rgb tiff. If the CP side then eps or cmyk tif

 

[timkaz227]

If the brand manual you were given just says 185, that's actually the best way to spec a Pantone colour for a brand. The suffixes are for different types/formulas of inks that are all meant to produce roughly the same colour.

Now, in reality, a 185 C, 185 U, 185 CP and 185 UP all look a little different, but C (coated) seems to have become the de facto standard above the other suffixes, so that's what we use as our main point of reference for everything, since signs are not printed on any of the materials that those suffixes are meant for (i.e. paper).

Yes, "C" stands for coated but the ink formula is the same for coated (C) & uncoated (U), the ink just looks different on the two types of paper. If you were to choose 185u and printed it it would have a much duller uncoated look. In the end you are just simulating the Pantone Colors because these formulations are for offset printing(Printing Press).

 

[Patentagosse]

When I'm asked to reproduce a Pantone color in a simple file (w/o too much of mess around it as gradient, transparency...) I simply walk 3ft away from my computer with Pantone booklet in hand and compare the i.e. PMS 185C to my printed chart on the wall (I have 2: standard Pantone and Roland VersaWork) and usually I find exactly the color to match so, whatever what's the code under the printed sample (sometimes it may be PMS 186 that may fits better), I re-assign the new color formula to customer's file. That way, I am sure the output printed color will match customer's expectations. Obviously, I refer to vector file in this case. I always work from Coated color chart except if it's for stationnary (all paper jobs).

* 'Haven't printed the 2 Pantone modes (C vs PC) to compare what's the better match. Just never thought 'bout it before. Maybe I should take 5min. to do it...

 

[Joe House]

I use the coated version for gloss prints and the uncoated when printing on matte vinyl or banner - this gives a closer representation in my mind.