Mask Question

[Sign_Boy]

Hey all,

Got a question for ya.
Here are the details:
Primed MDO
Sanded the face and rolled on the first coat (Ronan oil based bulletin)
Let that dry sanded that and rolled on a second coat repeat step for third coat.
Let that dry applied my mask (Oramask 810)
Brushed in the rest using 1 Shot Lettering Enamel (without sanding)
That's dry.
Here's where the tricky part comes in.
I have to mask off another portion of the sign so I can paint and airbrush that section.
Once that's done and dry I need to mask off an area of that and brush in my shadows and outlines.
Do you think the mask will damage the Lettering Enamel in any way?
If so do you have any tips that may help.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Sign_Boy]

Anyone?
I'd hate to learn this one by trial and error.

 

[J Hill Designs]

the only red flag I see is that you didnt sand before 1-shotting it...but if the 3rd coat was still fairly fresh it probably bonded fairly well...

 

[Mike Paul]

Did you airbrush onto wet 1-Shot or on the dry background?
If on the wet 1-Shot you should be fine.

Can't you paint the lettering, peel the outline or shadow, then paint that at the same time?

 

[Jillbeans]

It doesn't take much to confuse me but this did.
I can see using a mask for an airbrushed area
(is it a design?)
If it's not a design you might want to use regular autobody paper masking/masking tape.
I'd wait at least a day or two. (I don't trust 1S & worry about it lifting)
If anything does lift it can be touched up but that sucks.
I like Oramask but it always ghosts my background.
Must you mask the shadows and outlines? Those are a cinch to freehand and give a more authentic look.
Love....Jill

 

[Sign_Boy]

the only red flag I see is that you didnt sand before 1-shotting it...but if the 3rd coat was still fairly fresh it probably bonded fairly well...

The third coat was dry but from what I can tell it's on there good.

Did you airbrush onto wet 1-Shot or on the dry background?
If on the wet 1-Shot you should be fine.

Can't you paint the lettering, peel the outline or shadow, then paint that at the same time?

I didn't airbrush anything yet, that's tonight.
I may be able to paint peel then paint the outlines - I'll have to see how the airbrushing goes first.

It doesn't take much to confuse me but this did.
I can see using a mask for an airbrushed area
(is it a design?)
If it's not a design you might want to use regular autobody paper masking/masking tape.
I'd wait at least a day or two. (I don't trust 1S & worry about it lifting)
If anything does lift it can be touched up but that sucks.
I like Oramask but it always ghosts my background.
Must you mask the shadows and outlines? Those are a cinch to freehand and give a more authentic look.
Love....Jill

I'm thinking with my skill level right now the mask would help me out.
I'll have to post pictures later.
For now I have to run and get some stuff cut.

Thank you all for the help on this:U Rock:

 

[J Hill Designs]

The third coat was dry but from what I can tell it's on there good.[/QUOTE]

I was talking about the 1shot that was layed onto the unscuffed third coat

 

[Sign_Boy]

I was talking about the 1shot that was layed onto the unscuffed third coat

Got that, The third coat was dry (not fresh) but the 1 shot looks like it's on there good.

Well off to work on this some more.

I'll post pics when it's done

Thanks again

 

[Gino]

Basically, you should be good to go with everything. However, like Jill mentioned, you should probably use frisket for your final pattern. If you clear the first airbrushing, you'll also be fine. The thing is, the airbrush only lays down paint with a certain amount of air and doesn't knit as good as a brush palleted hand painting. You will generally get a mist on there and almost any vinyl mask will take that off, changing the appearance you first had.

Most airbrushing is done with cardboard or heavy paper hand-held templates. This allows you to paint with one hand while holding with the other....... one of the reasons we always had so much paint under our fingernails. Another way is to tape your template on with some very light or low tack painters tape.

We used to do a lot of that van customizing murals back in the 70's and almost everything was hand held templates. We clear it or do a wet on wet and then moved on with our next template. Most everything would then get a pinstripe or some edging, like in gilding to eliminate any overspray or possible not 'spot on' areas. Any last minute touch-ups were done with lacquer for fast drying or acrylic enamels. Then we cleared the livin' daylights out of it.

The secret was in the original designing of it. We made sure everything had edges and no bleeds so to speak. If you had blue blending into green, you did it wet on wet. All blends were done wet. Strictly separate characters or icons were let to almost dry and then the next template covered it.

 

[Jackpine]

frisket or low tack application tape.....

 

[Sign_Boy]

Gino, Thanks for the tips.
So far everything is going well.
The airbrushed portion was done wet on wet and IMO looks great.
I have a few more outlines and shadows to do and the face will be done.
I was planning to use a mask for these, but it looks like I may be doing it freehand.
It's going to be a royal pain to get it to register correctly.
I guess I'll see where the day takes me.

Jackpine - I used a low tack app tape to mask off the larger sections - it worked great.

Thanks again for all the advice on this.