Matthews Paint Crisis!

[Signbot]

Hello,
I have an issue related to Matthews gloss clear coat that I need advice on.

We painted a product with Benjamin Moore paint (requested by client) and then clear-coated with MAP.
Once delivered, we noticed impressions on the product made from the bubble-wrap.
Obviously it wasn't fully cured, however the client was extremely demanding so we let it go after a day of drying.
The impressions are only visible at certain angles but we want to make it perfect.
What would be the best method of action here?
Should we either..
1- Paint & clear-coat it again?
2- Just clear-coat it?

I prefer the latter, but I am unsure if it will remedy the impressions made from the bubble-wrap.
Any ideas or suggestions?
Thanks for your time!

 

[SignManiac]

+1

 

[MikePro]

+1
wet sand or at least evenly sand with super fine grit. clear coat will do the rest.

 

[letterman7]

How many coats of clear? Wet sanding a single or double coat might cut through if you're too aggressive. I'd try a simple machine cut and polish first.

 

[Eric H]

Guess it would depend how bad it is. If you can see it but not feel it you may be able to buff it out, maybe just re-clear. If you can feel it (more like a dent) anywhere from a sand and re-clear to a repaint depending on how bad it is.

 

[MikePro]

p.s. pics or it never happened
o, and :Welcome:2:signs101:

 

[SignManiac]

On a side note, I'd be more concerned with using Matthews clear on top of the Benjamin Moore. Did you check with Matthews first about compatibility with another brand and type of paint? Even if the client requested BM, i'd be inclined to recommend a matching Matthews color and explain to the client why, or use a Moore recommended clear coat over the project.

 

[Rick]

On a side note, I'd be more concerned with using Matthews clear on top of the Benjamin Moore. Did you check with Matthews first about compatibility with another brand and type of paint? Even if the client requested BM, i'd be inclined to recommend a matching Matthews color and explain to the client why, or use a Moore recommended clear coat over the project.

First thing I thought of...

 

[visual800]

Carefully wet sand just the clear coat and re-clear?

This

 

[Signbot]

Thank you all for the feedback!
We're picking up the product tomorrow so I'll have a better idea then as to how bad the impressions are.
Judging by everyones response, the wet-sanding and re-clear coating seems unanimous, so that'll be my first approach.

This is my first post here and it's exciting to see a community of like minded folks sharing ideas and tips. It's great.:Big Laugh
Will keep you guys posted.
Thanks, again!

 

[Mosh]

Most paints are part of a system, you should have used all Mathews or all Benjamin Moore.

Benjamin Moore paint? What were you painting the customers house?

 

[Desert_Signs]

Thank you all for the feedback!
We're picking up the product tomorrow so I'll have a better idea then as to how bad the impressions are.
Judging by everyones response, the wet-sanding and re-clear coating seems unanimous, so that'll be my first approach.

This is my first post here and it's exciting to see a community of like minded folks sharing ideas and tips. It's great.:Big Laugh
Will keep you guys posted.
Thanks, again!

There's ALWAYS enough time to do it right the first time. As evidenced by the customer now "having time" for you to fix it.

 

[petrosgraphics]

my first thought on this.... was the ben moore paint oil or latex.

* not a good idea to use mathews *on top of an oil based paint.

*the top coat may be dry to touch, paint under clear may be soft and*

*lifting from the primer.. * *do a test on another piece same process as

*original, # primer coats, finish coats, etc. then scrape the finish with*

* a razor blade to see if the paint is dry and hard under clear coat.