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MDO Edges
- Thread starter Tonyfavs
- Start date
Deaton Design
New Member
I use the heck out of mdo and havent had a failure in a long time. I used to use wood filler, but had some problems with that, used caulk but took to long to setup, also used wood glue which did okay, but the best thing is to prime and paint. That, imho is what seals it best. I have signs up that are ten years old and the mdo is still good.
insigniagraphics
New Member
I've had great results with simple exterior spackle as filler. The key is to be sure and sand the edges smooth first, especially any cut ones. Then fill, and ROLL a good exterior latex primer, such as glidden gripper, or even Behr. something with a high-solid content. 2-3 coats of that stuff before you paint works wonders. Spraying tends to leave any paint or primer on the surface, while a good ol' fashioned roller actually presses the paint into the voids. Also, I try to use 3/4" MDO as opposed to the 1/2", as it seems to have 10 times the longevity. I get an average of 6 years of life from contour-cut, 3/4" MDO before we notice any warping or water infiltration. Some people even go further as to finish the painted edges with a thin swipe of clear silicone sealant for good water resistance.
Of course, all that being said, I've discontinued MDO altogether because of the extraneous steps required to preserve it!!!
Of course, all that being said, I've discontinued MDO altogether because of the extraneous steps required to preserve it!!!
bob
It's better to have two hands than one glove.
MDO edges are the reason not to use MDO.
Without taking ridiculous and/or heroic steps the MDO will fail. Even going through all of the nonsense you have to go through in dealing with the edges there's still no reasonable assurance that it won't fail.
MDO: Nice surface, bad edges. There's so many products whose superiority to MDO is measured in light years as well as a panel not weighing more than water buffalo, why would anyone want to beat up on themselves by using the a product that requires a level of preparation totally out of proportion to the results?
Without taking ridiculous and/or heroic steps the MDO will fail. Even going through all of the nonsense you have to go through in dealing with the edges there's still no reasonable assurance that it won't fail.
MDO: Nice surface, bad edges. There's so many products whose superiority to MDO is measured in light years as well as a panel not weighing more than water buffalo, why would anyone want to beat up on themselves by using the a product that requires a level of preparation totally out of proportion to the results?
infinitesign
New Member
Pixels Are Bad Mmmkay?
New Member
We seal our mdo edges first with Plastic Wood putty. I think Dap makes it. The putty fills any of the large voids between laminates and dries quickly. Then we seal the edges all over with Titebond wood glue. Then we prime with Zinsser oil base primer and top coat with 3 coats of Rustoleum professional oil base enamel. We also round the corners prior to any finishing to shed water away from the edges of the sign.
Gino
Premium Subscriber
Good question. Yes, indeed.
When one knows what they're doing, you can fill all the voids, seal the four edges, in less than five minutes. Sand the edges flat, knock off the corners, dust it in about another 5 minutes. Prime the edges in maybe 2 more minutes.
Top coat the three edges and face in about 5 or 6 minutes, drop down and paint the last edge and the other side in maybe 6 or 7 more minutes. According to your air conditions, when it's dry, sand both sides and repeat the coating of the edges and faces. When dry, if you want give it a third coat repeating the same steps.
All total, you're at about 45 minutes and you have a nice shiny board that will last 15 years.
If you're doing two at a time... you'd add maybe a little more time, but as you get good at it and are doing these routinely, we would have 10 or so at any given time all finsihed with the filler, sanding, priming and one top coat already on. We generally used a kinda grey first top coat. That's a good color that anything will hide when going overtop with your second and third coat.... even white.
When we're doing baseball signs, we have 20 or so up on horses and can only paint one side at a time, because of space. 640 square foot of boards takes up a lota space cause of getting in-between them. Using this process we can paint all 20 in about 5-6 hours 3 coats top side, 1 coat back side. Usually prep in the morning and get the back coat on. Flip immediately and do a top coat, then sand, tack and re-coat at end of day and a third coat the next morning.
bob
It's better to have two hands than one glove.
45 minutes in a perfect world, double that in the real world. Even at that, had you chosen a laminate you'd have a nice shiny board that would outlast the next ice age for an investment of 0 minutes. Moreover you could wrangle it all by yourself.
At anything resembling a reasonable hourly rate the cost difference betwixt MDO and a civilized laminate panel, if there were any with which to begin, is negated.
I have a 4'x5' drop of pre-coated 3/4 MDO sitting up against the back wall of my shop. It's been there for years. Whenever the situation arises I offer that chunk of board for free vice a sheet of 10mm laminate. After I explain the differences between the freebie chunk of MDO and the $191.00 sheet of laminate, everyone offered this deal has chosen the laminate.
Gino
Premium Subscriber
No doubt the composite aluminum or even sheet aluminum is less hassle, but have you ever seen how badly the aluminum composites oxidize in just two or three years.... especially if you leave a white background. If it's colored ahead of time, they just fade out. No, we don't really sell these aluminum composite boards as high end signs. They're usually considered quickies at a high cost for materials.
For us, we do a fair amount of MDO, aluminum composites and sheet alumninum, banners, sandblasted, electrical and trucks, so we use it all. Also, a big seller is all the various PVC's for interior signs, so we generally use the substrate most fitted and best for the project and don't worry about taking the easy way out, but to each their own.
Oh, and it must be a somewhat perfect world around here or we're just good, but I've never seen...... even an employee, take over an hour to paint one board and that includes opening, stirring and closing the cans.
By the way, we also still have quite a bit of lead oil-based 1-shot lettering and bulletin on hand. It's not like the snot in the cans most are buying these days.
For us, we do a fair amount of MDO, aluminum composites and sheet alumninum, banners, sandblasted, electrical and trucks, so we use it all. Also, a big seller is all the various PVC's for interior signs, so we generally use the substrate most fitted and best for the project and don't worry about taking the easy way out, but to each their own.
Oh, and it must be a somewhat perfect world around here or we're just good, but I've never seen...... even an employee, take over an hour to paint one board and that includes opening, stirring and closing the cans.
By the way, we also still have quite a bit of lead oil-based 1-shot lettering and bulletin on hand. It's not like the snot in the cans most are buying these days.
Gino
Premium Subscriber
Just filled out another OSHA sheet a few days ago.
Pixels Are Bad Mmmkay?
New Member
I just prefer to work with MDO because it involves a lot of hand craftsmanship and no shortcuts. When I can pick up a sheet of 3/4" at Menard's for $50, cut it, route it, fill and seal it, paint it, and put some nice graphics on it, it makes my job very enjoyable and I can preserve a bit more pride in the finished product.
Different strokes for different folks.
Different strokes for different folks.