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Need Help Mimaki Cjv30. Can't Get Black Dark Enough. Help

Jonzed

New Member
We are trying to start printing a wrap and I cant get a dark black! I have tried 5 different profiles, uni, bi directional, 6 pass,12pass, different resoultions. Some are better than others but none are great. I am using avery 1105 and the avery profile stinks for it. Good nozzle check. Recalibrated it. What can I try? I am about to blow this thing up!

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GAC05

Quit buggin' me
I don't run that printer (VJ1624 here) but what recipe are you using for black in vector objects?
I get muddy brown black if I run 0,0,0,100K or Pantone spot black.
RGB black prints nice and Illustrator converts it to C75 M68 Y67 K90 to print as a rich solid black in CMYK layouts.

wayne k
guam usa
 

Dizimoto

New Member
I struggle with dense blacks on my JV3 when using colour profiles in the RIP. What I usually do now is generate the artwork with 100% K and no other added colours, then print with all ICC profiles in the RIP turned off. This gives me a clean dense black
 

Jonzed

New Member
I don't run that printer (VJ1624 here) but what recipe are you using for black in vector objects?
I get muddy brown black if I run 0,0,0,100K or Pantone spot black.
RGB black prints nice and Illustrator converts it to C75 M68 Y67 K90 to print as a rich solid black in CMYK layouts.

wayne k
guam usa
My cmyk is same as yours.

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tdupster

New Member
We are trying to start printing a wrap and I cant get a dark black! I have tried 5 different profiles, uni, bi directional, 6 pass,12pass, different resoultions. Some are better than others but none are great. I am using avery 1105 and the avery profile stinks for it. Good nozzle check. Recalibrated it. What can I try? I am about to blow this thing up!

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I'm using a cjv150-160 and have the same issue. With that being said, I use a profile for a translucent series film (pvc backlight like MPI 2000 or IJ8150) it tend to make the blacks darker especially when using for a lightbox.

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printhog

New Member
I work all my files in CMYK and use a standard wet black 40/40/40/100 for maximum density. But that means all your imaging has to be CMYK. If you're using a similar wet black in an RGB side, I'd wonder if your linearization is clipping the top end of the black mixes off. Maybe build an all new media and linearize from the start. If your media model is stuck with a prior ink limit you won't get thru that to get maximum density of the K channel.

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Jonzed

New Member
Newby here..... what is a wet black and linerazation?
Basically your whole post. What did you say? Lol

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printhog

New Member
Okay.. every color you print is a build of certain percentages of cyan, magenta, yellow and black, black is called K to avoid confusion (it means Key color). Pure K will usually never be dense enough to make a good black, and 100 percent of CMY will give you a muddy brown black. In process print the K color helps to make images pop.

Wet black is a color built in CMYK (vs RGB or Pantone). You call out the exact percentages of each channel in the mix in your design program. Your rip will usually process that straight thru, limited only by linearization and ink limits. So my wet black, which is common to litho printing is 40 percent of each primary.. cyan, yellow, magenta, plus 100 percent K. All total we're using 220 percent ink coverage. This fills the black color in artwork with extra ink to correct the lack of ink density that a single channel k has. It makes your black "pop".

Now for ink limits and Linearization.. ink limits are the ability of each vinyl to accept ink. Your printer can squirt a LOT of ink. Usually more than you need. But at some point it won't dry, it'll get runny and messy and you'll waste ink money.

Your rip has a process to save ink for each media while still getting good color. When you ink limit, you're telling the program that it should reduce the amount of ink squirted at a certain percentage point. Let's just say your media can't take more than 50 percent of magenta at default operating levels. You'll tell your rip that 50% should now be converted to become the 100% point. So your rip will adjust the print driver to make the maximum ink squirted be 50% of the machines actual capability. Now your maximum deposition for that channel is 50%, and the math is changed in the rip so it sees that as 100% for that media.

Now we have to tell the rip where each of the percentage points between 0-100 is since we changed the top limit. Otherwise our mid colors will be yecch.

Linearization is the calibration of the steps from 0 (bare paper) to 100 percent ink coverage in each channel (CMYK). Usually this is done with a step wedge target and a device that reads the steps, either in density, or in color space. Correct Color is a merchant here and sells and supports that stuff if you don't have it.

This process calibrates the machine to use the least but best amount of ink, and to properly make a 0-100 range of colors based on each media.

I've seen shops save thousands of dollars a year in ink and have much happier clients from this. It's important.

Think of it like this, you have a garden hose nozzle that can squirt a range of water from mist to stream, ink limits are like turning the house tap down for less flow pressure, but the handle nozzle still gives you a mist to stream.. it'll fill a bucket slower as you're not moving as much water..

Hope that helps. Hard to be very explanatory on a smartphone..


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31legen

New Member
What rip are you using. If rasterlink i had great luck with the generic canned profile gpvc-h3 i think it was. As previously stated use 40 40 40 100.
 
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