Mimaki JV3-160SP - Grainy print issue....profile?

[MarkH42]

Our company primarily does screen printing, but we purchased a Mimaki a year or so ago for some decal and banner work. We are using Raster Link Pro 2 and are converting files to EPS prior to putting them into Raster Link. We have a small list of profiles in our software, but using a 720x720, 4 passes, bi-directional, our prints are grainy, for lack of a better word. We have a slight banding issue that I'm going to try to work on, but I'm more concerned about the grainy nature of our prints. Doing a test print shows a couple of missing lines, but not ehough to cause this IMO. Could any of you suggest something to try? I tried 1440x720 once but that didn't seem to help. Let me also say I am FAR from an expert graphic designer. It wouldn't be difficult to go over my head, so please dumb it down for me. Is there some variable within the software that might allow us to adjust the way the ink "sprays"? I'm at a loss and I appreciate any advice you may have. Thanks in advance!!!

 

[drive]

What is your ink configuration? CMYK (4 color) / CMYKcm (6 color)?
CMYK tends to be grainier in the lighter tones because it doesn't have light cyan and light magenta to fill in the 'gaps'.
Try switching to 8 or 16 passes too. You tend to see more banding with a lower number of passes and it may help with the graininess.
As for changing the dot pattern (the way the ink sprays), I'm not familiar with Raster Link, but there are methods to doping this with other rips. Hopefully someone with RasterLink experience can chime in shortly.....

 

[4R Graphics]

Several things.

First bi directional will always have a little grain issue.
Second you need to run through or have the machine calibrated (this will make a HUGE difference).
Third 4 pass is never going to look as good as 16 pass.

We use 720 X 720 8 and 16 pass for most prints in bi directional prints look good.
16 pass is really only used on stuff that will be seen constantlly from less than 8 feet ie POP and stuff.
8 pass for vehicle wraps and other large graphics.
4 pass for banners.

Look around the internet and perhaps this site for a copy of the SERVICE manual for this printer.
Its around somwhere print this out it will take you through the calibrations but if you are not mechanically inclined and have time and materials to devote to learning the process of calibrating and repairing the printer then hire someone to do it for you.

Also try printing in uni directional slower but usually a better print.

Good luck.

 

[daveb]

You don't say what software you're using to generate the EPS files. We send to Rasterlink from Corel and Photoshop with no problem. I would definitely try different file formats first, I'd be willing to wager RL is having problems with your EPS files. We fail to realize sometimes some software just doesn't like to play nice together.:Big Laugh Keep it simple.

 

[tbaker]

Actually, let's start at the basics. Can you post a picture? Let's look see what is going on, it's amazing what you can tell from a simple pic.

There are multiple variables that could result in poor output from your printer.

 

[MarkH42]

I really appreciate the insight. I plan to increase the number of passes, switch to uni-directional, AND research calibrating. Depending on the results, I may post a closeup picture of a print. I am running 4 color CMYK and I'd like to keep it there if I can. That will be a last resort. The EPS files are created in Gerber Omega Composer software, so I may try to create some in Adobe for comparison. Again, thanks for the help! Stay tuned for a pic if I can't figure this out.

 

[daveb]

The EPS files are created in Gerber Omega Composer software

10 to 1 odds this is your problem unless Gerber has changed a lot in the last few years, definitely does not like to play nice with other software. Don't get me wrong, I was exclusively Gerber for about 15 years and color management was one of the reasons I had to start "playing" with Corel. Now about the only thing I use it for is neon patterns and node editing (great for neon).Excuse me now, it's beer thirty.

 

[WrapperX]

Several things.

First bi directional will always have a little grain issue.
Second you need to run through or have the machine calibrated (this will make a HUGE difference).
Third 4 pass is never going to look as good as 16 pass.

We use 720 X 720 8 and 16 pass for most prints in bi directional prints look good.
16 pass is really only used on stuff that will be seen constantlly from less than 8 feet ie POP and stuff.
8 pass for vehicle wraps and other large graphics.
4 pass for banners.

Look around the internet and perhaps this site for a copy of the SERVICE manual for this printer.
Its around somwhere print this out it will take you through the calibrations but if you are not mechanically inclined and have time and materials to devote to learning the process of calibrating and repairing the printer then hire someone to do it for you.

Also try printing in uni directional slower but usually a better print.

Good luck.

+1

 

[Rooster]

I'll go as high as 720x720 32pass for some projects, but all my stuff is done bi-directionally, so it would be the same speed as 16 pass uni. Increasing the number of passes will help a ton with hiding the missing nozzles as well.

Without seeing a sample of what you're referring to, you might be having an issue with ink mottling. It tends to look very grainy and it's when the ink appears to pool in larger globs rather than a smooth halftone type screen.

 

[misc103]

Our company primarily does screen printing, but we purchased a Mimaki a year or so ago for some decal and banner work. We are using Raster Link Pro 2 and are converting files to EPS prior to putting them into Raster Link. We have a small list of profiles in our software, but using a 720x720, 4 passes, bi-directional, our prints are grainy, for lack of a better word. We have a slight banding issue that I'm going to try to work on, but I'm more concerned about the grainy nature of our prints. Doing a test print shows a couple of missing lines, but not ehough to cause this IMO. Could any of you suggest something to try? I tried 1440x720 once but that didn't seem to help. Let me also say I am FAR from an expert graphic designer. It wouldn't be difficult to go over my head, so please dumb it down for me. Is there some variable within the software that might allow us to adjust the way the ink "sprays"? I'm at a loss and I appreciate any advice you may have. Thanks in advance!!!

Hi there!

I was hoping you might be able to assist! It might be a long shot but we have tried quite a lot! We are using Shiraz RIP at the moment

We have a Mimaki JV3-160sp also but have the same issue you mentioned in regards to grainy prints. Printer seems to be fully calibrated.

We get the same result with higher dpi but are using 720*720 on either 12 or 16 pass, Same grainy result even with overprint.

I was just wondering if you ever found a solution for this?

Your the only person online I could find that has had this issue.

Any help you could provide would be much appreciated.

Thank you!

 

[MarkH42]

We were eventually able to resolve our issue, but to be quite honest, I don't recall exactly what we did. We did change to 720x1440 and that helped. We also run spot colors whenever possible as our software seems to be at its worst when running PMS colors. We also moved to uni-direction for most prints, as the bi-direction sometimes leads to a yellow haze around the edges. I am currently researching a new printer because the JV3 may be getting a little tired. We have been getting some Y Current interruptions that are absolute job killers. Sorry I'm not more help with your issue. That was a long time ago and I just can't recall the details of exactly what we did. Good luck!

 

[MikePro]

assuming your test prints are 100%, graininess usually comes from misalignment. plenty of threads here regarding how to fix this.
if you were able to fix your issue by adjusting your resolution/passes/direction, then this means that you have selected the mode that is aligned properly but the other modes have not been.
the process is tedious, but only has to be done well once (for each mode) and will last you until you replace a printhead.

y-current issues can be caused by friction against the left-right motion of the printheads, either on the rail (which should be cleaned & lubed regularly), belt drag at the pulley/gear, or the y-axis motor itself could be burning out (likely, considering the age of the machine)