Discussion Mimaki UCJV300-130 UV printer

[Del3213]

I just got my new UCJV300-130 and first problem. Whats everybody using for laminate on wrap material is giving us silvering and won't go away. We tried with heat and without doesn't go away. Mostly noticeable only dark colors, specially black. How have you solve this problem?

 

[Solventinkjet]

Mimaki recommends using a heat assist capable laminator.

 

[Del3213]

I do and we have put on highest heat setting no go, same result

 

[frankubilluz]

Some do not laminate, others use varnish,however LUS170 can handle vehicle wraping without a scratch

 

[InkjetAuction]

Yea... those blacks. Looks cloudy when overlammed.

I'd push it back to the material manufacturer/distributor... especially if they OK the film for printing on the UCJV.
What materials are you printing on?

I do not know why Mimaki would suggest the use of heat assist on an overlam. Heat assist is not going to help with long term bonding.
Heat assist is about wet-out and environmental condition. With UV inks, it's mostly about the bond of the laminate's adhesive to the UV ink.
Besides, heat on a cast overlam is the last thing you want to do. Can you say STRETCH.

These two overlaminates are made for UV printable applications.

The Oraguard 215DU PVC overlam is great for flat applications. 3 mil calendared. This is not going to help you on this one, but if you have some flat work....
https://www.orafol.com/en/americas/products/oraguard-215du

The Avery DOL 4400 UV is a Cast PVC overlam made for UV prints... but it is only available in the EU. It might be worth asking about this.

I do note that the standard 3M wrap overlam products (8518/8519/8520) are listed as UV-compatible, but that seems like a broad statement.

I'll look into this at Printing United. It's an interesting topic.

~E

 

[Christian @ 2CT Media]

You can use Avery dol1460 and 6460 on UV Prints for wraps. If you are not wrapping, 3M 8048 is awesome on UV prints, we use it all the time.

 

[cstone94]

What print settings are you using? Resolution and Pass Count? Have you built a custom profile for the print media? If the material is "cold laminate" don't max the heat out, just add a little bit. I had silvering issues with blacks too, so I set the top and bottom rollers to about 85 degrees, slowed the feed rate down, and the blacks looked much more crisp. I'm printing off of a EFI machine though, but still UV of course.

 

[Del3213]

I talked to the Avery rep hes getting me samples of the Avery dol1460 and 6460 to try. The Ink were using is the LUS-200 its supposed to be made by 3M and has a high stretching capability. Once I get these samples I will post the results. I'm also going to try 3M 8518.Thanks for all your help.

 

[Del3213]

I talked to the Avery rep hes getting me samples of the Avery dol1460 and 6460 to try. The Ink were using is the LUS-200 its supposed to be made by 3M and has a high stretching capability. Once I get these samples I will post the results. I'm also going to try 3M 8518.Thanks for all your help.

Update 8518 has same silvering effect 3M rep is suppose to reach out to me. Geesh never thought switching a printer be this much pain in the ass

 

[Del3213]

Anyone close to PA have a Seal Laminator we can try some tests?

 

[bigben]

Some do not laminate, others use varnish,however LUS170 can handle vehicle wraping without a scratch

I would be curious to test that and know how much it would cost to varnish an entire print. We mostly do interior stuff and we laminate maybe one thing per month, so we outsource it.

 

[rvolkers]

laminate should match wrap material - it is wrong to print on a material and then pick any generic laminate!

we use -
Orafol 3751 8 year - (removable for 2-3 years) ---- Laminate options are 290M matte or 290G gloss

 

[Christian @ 2CT Media]

laminate should match wrap material - it is wrong to print on a material and then pick any generic laminate!

we use -
Orafol 3751 8 year - (removable for 2-3 years) ---- Laminate options are 290M matte or 290G gloss

by far not exactly true!

 

[rvolkers]

BY FAR - what ever works for you i guess!
this is what MANY professionals say! - and what always works for us - true or not!

Over lamination of vinyl is important because it greatly improves the vehicle wrap’s lifespan and quality.Laminating vinyl helps with durability, protecting against UV rays, scratches, and fading. Laminating also makes the material thicker by a few millimeters, which makes installation easier and prevents against tears while the vinyl is being stretched over awkwardly shaped parts of the vehicle.

During his lesson on over lamination Todd made sure to point out that there are different qualities of over laminate and they vary widely. The best way to choose an over laminate for your vinyl is to simply stick with the same manufacturer. Don’t go with a premium vinyl material like 3m and then try to cut costs with a cheap off-brand laminate - you’ll be asking for trouble. In our shop, we make sure that all of the vinyl and laminate matches, meaning it was created by the same manufacturer.

https://www.sunrisesigns.com/our-bl...ate-An-Important-Part-of-A-Vinyl-Vehicle-Wrap

 

[Christian @ 2CT Media]

What you show here and what you said in your first post are different. If you print on 3751RA you are not limited to Orafol only options, you can laminate with Arlon 3220, 3M 8518, Avery 1060Z and have the same if not better results. The only benefit to a matching system is in a warranty situation, but sometimes a competitor's laminate is better than the base films matching laminate. Case in point, we laminate almost all of our lower-end products with 3M 8048 since it has been proven to outlast the competition 2 fold for us no matter if the base film is Avery, 3M, Arlon, or any other product we use.

 

[rvolkers]

What you show here and what you said in your first post are different. If you print on 3751RA you are not limited to Orafol only options, you can laminate with Arlon 3220, 3M 8518, Avery 1060Z and have the same if not better results. The only benefit to a matching system is in a warranty situation, but sometimes a competitor's laminate is better than the base films matching laminate. Case in point, we laminate almost all of our lower-end products with 3M 8048 since it has been proven to outlast the competition 2 fold for us no matter if the base film is Avery, 3M, Arlon, or any other product we use.

 

[rvolkers]

2CT - what ever works for you is GREAT - we tend to use Orafol pretty much for all our stuff print vinyl and lams (LOL) we all have our go to's - that said we have learned kinda the hard way not to interchange (it gets expensive when the results are not what you want) - we do do not just do wraps - we do signage - decals stickers and you know the drill so we also use different Orafol vinyl and lams for each application - we stick with Orafol all around when printing and lams because of our comfort zone and results - not looking to ruffle any feathers - just giving my in put on a thread - must be nice to be AZ - Maine get nasty!
best wishes

 

[Christian @ 2CT Media]

For Vinyl, I'll take Maine winters over AZ Summers... Nothing lasts much longer than 2 years here. All I was saying was in the case that was presented here, testing Lam's to work over UV ink shouldn't limit them to matched sets.

 

[RazorsEdge]

I just got my new UCJV300-130 and first problem. Whats everybody using for laminate on wrap material is giving us silvering and won't go away. We tried with heat and without doesn't go away. Mostly noticeable only dark colors, specially black. How have you solve this problem?

I am considering the mimaki uvjc300 with lus200 for wrapping also. I have been using mutoh ecosolvent and 3m vinyl products in the past with great success. Any updates on how the uv inks are working with wraps as far as install/durabilty? Did you find a media/laminate and technique that resolved your silvering issues? I really want the instant cure uv ink to work as it would be ideal for our signs and banners but wraps are also a big part of our business.