Mounting 4x8 to block wall

[AwardImage]

Substrate is ACRYLITE FF... because that's what I have.
Attachment surface is concrete block wall facing ESE in west TN where it's 70 degrees in the morning and 5,000degrees (so to speak) in the afternoon right now.

I plan to attach it with a hammerdrill prepped holes and concrete screws + small washers.

What are the pitfalls to making 4 holes in a building wall?
Is there a chemical (glue/adhesive) alternative?

Thank you, in advance. Have a great Memorial Day weekend, because I will be working Monday too

 

[jkdbjj]

Construction grade silicon or perhaps some type of Loctite. We use it plenty on brick when we are not allowed to drill.

 

[GVP]

Acrylic direct to the wall? Have you considered expansion & contraction? I think acrylic should always float in a frame of some sort - esp. 4x8

 

[FS-Keith]

there are much better substrate alternatives then acrylic. your attachment method sounds fine

 

[Billct2]

Bolting acrylic to a exterior wall, not a good idea.
It should be in a frame to allow for expansion.
Just because it's what you have doesn't mean it's what you should use.

 

[nwsigns]

If you have to use it and cant frame it, make oversized holes in the acylic and then washers on top and dont tighten all the way - hardly the right way to go but if you have to this will keep it from binding up WHEN it expands in the sun.

Use another material through, this will not last.

 

[rjssigns]

Alupanel or DiBond. With that exposure acrylic will fail.

 

[k.a.s.]

Oversize holes and rubber washers is the only way that will survive.

Kevin

 

[wes70]

Drill the holes in mortar line, not the brick itself.

 

[Speedsterbeast]

Drill the holes in mortar line, not the brick itself.

Am I alone in thinking that is very bad advice?

 

[weaselboogie]

Why not standoffs? If it were me, I'd request to double up on your allowed holes in the wall. If you need to make some holes, make sure they look nice. I just finished something similar and we used 3/4" standoffs with a hole in the acrylic twice the size. thought this would be enough for expansion. the blue concrete screws are rated at 200lbs per hole, plenty enough to hold.

This is mid install. The board is to hold it in place. The standoffs are so far on the top only.

 

[OldPaint]

Am I alone in thinking that is very bad advice?

NO!!!!! BUT............IF, the owner of the building doesnt want holes in the brick/block, and how long is this sign going to be up there? short term it will work, couple years, the motar once you drill a hole, attracts moisture, thus making the motar soft. holes in the motar are more easily patched.

 

[Stuckup]

Polyurethane adhesive, acrylic manufacturers usually have recommended adhesives. I generally use a few together, 1 to get instant adhesion (double sided tape), 1 that sets fairly quickly, and the polyurethane that does not give way ever but takes time to set. They hold stretch panels on Buses with PolyU, very strong and flexible when its set.

 

[AwardImage]

OK. You talked me out of the opaque Acylite sheets that I won in auction.

Notable objections
-swelling/contraction
-photo degradation (crap durability)

What should I do with the Acrilyte (opaque white) sheets?

 

[Pat Whatley]

Please don't silicone the sign to the brick. We did that for years and now but now I just cringe when I see where a sign has been removed and there are giant blobs of virtually impossible to remove silicone all over the place.

Use the right substrate, screw it into the wall with concrete anchors. Eight little holes are a heck of a lot less obtrusive than the remnants of a couple of tubes of silicone.

 

[Red Ball]

Drill the holes in mortar line, not the brick itself.

Not a good idea.

 

[Craig Sjoquist]

Wow so many points of view.

To me it's use what you have and available.

A Frame is better but not required.

Bolting to wall is way better then silicon or glue of many sorts. Use 6 expansion type of any sort, much depends on wall and equipment you have or can rent.

 

[Sign-Man Signs]

Elite board from Tublite $39.00 a sheet. Just like Alumilite.

 

[AwardImage]

Elite board from Tublite $39.00 a sheet. Just like Alumilite.

I'm virtually equidistant from Memphis and Nashville(tubelite one direction, grimco, api in the other), but Tubelite will deliver for CHEAP, since I am 500yds away from a $20M sign fabricator

I was leaning towards max-metal, but I've never personally used anything like that. I sold a sign with my art that was on max-metal, but I just sent the file off, picked up the finished product and delivered it. I'll make another post about custom shapes for a different job (working with aluminum composites).

Anyway, the job that I was referring to, would love to have an 8x16, and with substrate costs under $150, I can do something spectacular within his budget.

Thanks to all, but especially to the guy with the silicone blobs. LMAO! the biggest signs that I have done in the past were laminates over other signs... I used formica Signs were a byproduct of my profession then.
FWIW, the oldest one is still going strong after 6 years.

 

[ddarlak]

Am I alone in thinking that is very bad advice?

i disagree, i always go for the mortar lines, never, ever a problem....