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Need advice on routing wood...

Kottwitz-Graphics

New Member
Hey, guys, I need some advice on routing some wood... Very old oak, to be precise. I got a couple of pieces of wood that they cut down, and planed to thickness, and they told me that it is very hard...

I'll be cutting a bevel into the material using a 120 degree bevel bit, and I have a couple of questions before I start...

Would it be better to slow the machine down to a slow crawl, and turn crank the RPMs of the router up (in excess of 20,000 rpm)?

The letters will be about 1/2" deep at the deepest point... so I'm thinking passes at about 1/8" per run...

Also, should I think about some form of cooling mist? Or compressed air to help cool the bit while its working. My biggest concern is staining the wood with some chemical or oil...

Thanks in advance,
Mark
 

SebastienL

New Member
I have limited experience routing solid wood but heres what I think:

I don't think slowing down will help any. This will not let the cutter cut, it will only wear the tool and burn the wood. I've never used coolling mist on anything but aluminum or other metals.

If it's very old oak, I'd try the program on scrap mdf or whatever. Assuming your talking CNC.

Two passes should be sufficient, leave maybe .050"-.060".

And, of course, brand spankin' new cutter. Maybe even use one for roughing and one for finishing.

Maybe put some vinyl or application tape on top. If the wood should split or fray, at least you won't loose the splinters.

Good luck!
 

SebastienL

New Member
Oh yeah, one more thing. Again, assuming your talking CNC. Make absolutely sure that the surface your are going to machine is absolutely flat and parallel to the x and y axis. Specially if your going to do intaglio. If the board is warped in even the smallest way, the width of the letters will be uneven.
 

CES020

New Member
Not much to worry about. I agree, don't go slow because you think it's hard. Also no need for 1/8" passes either. A sharp bit will mow through wood.

Having said that, I'll put a disclaimer in there. I have no idea how you are holding it, so my advice might not be right for you. If it's held good, you can really cut it. If it's a tricky setup, then your 1/8" passes might make sense.

No issues otherwise, just start cutting, it'll be fine. No need for air blowing on it either. That'll just fill the shop with stuff you shouldn't be breathing anyway.
 

SebastienL

New Member
Not much to worry about. I agree, don't go slow because you think it's hard. Also no need for 1/8" passes either. A sharp bit will mow through wood.

Having said that, I'll put a disclaimer in there. I have no idea how you are holding it, so my advice might not be right for you. If it's held good, you can really cut it. If it's a tricky setup, then your 1/8" passes might make sense.

No issues otherwise, just start cutting, it'll be fine. No need for air blowing on it either. That'll just fill the shop with stuff you shouldn't be breathing anyway.

Good point!
 

artbot

New Member
oak is not the best wood but there are worse ones out there. if you are going to be finishing the wood, i'd suggest doing a couple "pre-passes" with a sanding clear (i've had to do it in the past routing red wood burl which is very tricky). that will fuse the fibers together a but and the wood will be less likely to splinter. you may also want to climb cut it. that will cut down on the fray.
 
good bit as long as you are familiar with your machine, there shouldn't be any problems. see if whoever prepped this piece has any drops if you are concerned and you can do a small test.

if you are nervous contact an established local cabinet shop if you have a contact... in my experience those guys have more hours running cnc routers than just about anyone.

but really good bit. properly secured material. NO MIST or OIL. oh and...

make sure everything is spelled right :) especially if it is in a foreign language..don't ask how I know this one..
 

signmeup

New Member
Going too slow will burn the oak. You'll need to run a few experimental cuts to dial it in. I would do a rough cut and a finish cut. (all my advice is based on an electric hand router)
Use a very sharp bit to reduce burned edges.
 

fcc

New Member
Old Oak

Blow through it at the same rate as any wood of similar hardness.
I just CNC'd some live oak that's been buried since 1880, and it machines just like any other.

Frank C.
 
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