Need help manufacturing this

[ams]

So I was given the attached graphic to manufacture (not my design I swear). It will sit on a concrete pad with a cinder block foundation / masonry with various size stones. The wood will be Trex Composite, I am making the tree and letters 1/2" acrylic pin mount, and it will have a double sided Digital EMC.

My question is, for the middle, what do you suggest using as an interior wall for the EMC to sit on and the trex to be mounted to? (The hollow point in between the two sides) I thought about a single wall of cinder block, but unsure of myself. I don't know plywood because that will just rot.

Thanks

 

[AKwrapguy]

So I was given the attached graphic to manufacture (not my design I swear). It will sit on a concrete pad with a cinder block foundation / masonry with various size stones. The wood will be Trex Composite, I am making the tree and letters 1/2" acrylic pin mount, and it will have a double sided Digital EMC.

My question is, for the middle, what do you suggest using as an interior wall for the EMC to sit on and the trex to be mounted to? (The hollow point in between the two sides) I thought about a single wall of cinder block, but unsure of myself. I don't know plywood because that will just rot.

Thanks

View attachment 135517

I don't deal with setups like this so this is more of a question than anything, does it have to be a solid wall?

 

[equippaint]

This isnt something we do either but what about metal stud or welded alum frame skinned with durarock?

 

[ams]

I don't deal with setups like this so this is more of a question than anything, does it have to be a solid wall?

Doesn't have to be solid.

 

[AKwrapguy]

Doesn't have to be solid.

Can you use something like telespar?

 

[Creighton]

Could you just stick frame this with Trex? Drop 24" on center 2x4's (trex) into the concrete base with a top header to seal off the enclosure, and then overlay the Trex planking and EMCs on top of that? You need to cable this up inside anyway, right? Other option is you could still stick frame it if they dropped some j-bolts into the base for you, but you're asking for an awful lot of horizontal rigidity that way. Even with something like a Simpson StrongTie column base, you're probably going to get a little wobble. Is it just 4 ft tall?

 

[ams]

Can you use something like telespar?

Hmm we could.

 

[ams]

Could you just stick frame this with Trex? Drop 24" on center 2x4's (trex) into the concrete base with a top header to seal off the enclosure, and then overlay the Trex planking and EMCs on top of that? You need to cable this up inside anyway, right? Other option is you could still stick frame it if they dropped some j-bolts into the base for you, but you're asking for an awful lot of horizontal rigidity that way. Even with something like a Simpson StrongTie column base, you're probably going to get a little wobble. Is it just 4 ft tall?

I am told it's 81" tall X 110" length. I thought about enclosing Trex around it on top and sides, make it more weather proof. But I guess an interior frame will be the best way to do with 2X4's

 

[visual800]

aluminum. No doubt. We frame everything with aluminum, lightweight, durable, no rust, no fuss
2x4, 3x3, 4x4, matters not

 

[equippaint]

I am told it's 81" tall X 110" length. I thought about enclosing Trex around it on top and sides, make it more weather proof. But I guess an interior frame will be the best way to do with 2X4's

As big as it is, a welded frame with a proper base plate to anchor to the block would seem to be the best option if youre not running block all of the way up.

 

[ams]

As big as it is, a welded frame with a proper base plate to anchor to the block would seem to be the best option if youre not running block all of the way up.

I was planning on running a single cinder block wall all the way up. But attaching to that may be an issue.

 

[JTBoh]

Yea, +1000 for metal.
EMCs weigh about 200-250 pounds per side.

Aluminum frame, skinned with painted aluminum. I'd space the TREX out with 1/2" studs from the aluminum skin so water doesn't get trapped.

If it was me, I'd plant a pole or two for the EMCs, then build the masonry around the pole(s), then drop the entire top assembly (EMCs included) on top of the masonry. Make the EMCs integrated with the rest of the assembly so that there are no gaps/issues with fitting. Weld the EMCs directly to the pole via brackets, and attach assembly to masonry base. MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE YOU PUT THE POLES IN THE RIGHT PLACE*.

I'd also talk them into losing that wooden "tail" at bottom right.

Also - ensure your fabricator vents the sign properly for EMC operation.



*Recent one we did - had 3 poles since it was a "V" sign. Just about the same size. Poles were a tight fit.

 

[bowtievega]

At that size you need some kind of structural support that is tied into the ground, either a pole mount or standard CMU block wall and footing. I would agree with JTBoh and go pole mount with fabricated aluminum frame. Use that Trex as a veneer over the skinned cabinet. The Trex is not a structural product, i wouldn't try and frame anything out of that stuff. I assume there is no permit necessary for this sign? We would be limited in options just based on requirements of municipalities and what they would require structure wise. Some would need engineering which again would force us to pole or CMU block. 81" x 110" is a pretty good size wind sail. I totally get the 'not my design' thing lol. Sometimes we just have to make ugly signs because that is what the customer wants!

 

[ams]

I'll go with an aluminum frame and two poles for the EMC. Thanks

 

[SeMi57]

If it were me, very small shop (me alone), I would farm most of it out to Peachtree City Foamcraft and you could still attach your lettering and tree the way you want and they will create the spot and hook up for EMC. They will deliver it to your shop and easy to install, one day the sign will be up and finish things off the second day.

 

[Creighton]

I was planning on running a single cinder block wall all the way up. But attaching to that may be an issue.

Yeah, I think you'd end up blowing that cinder block wall apart with all the anchoring you need to do, unless you fill it, and then that's not any fun either. Good miles on an SDS drill by the time you're done. I'd frame it with something, metal, wood, whatever, and connect that to the concrete base.