Need help with a backlit material

[Dennis422]

Hi there. Looking for a suggestion on the backlit material.
My customer has a lit sign that is in terrible shape. First off, they have a logo printed on a cheap vinyl applied on aluminum panel and then screwed to the huge box that has a light set-up in it.

I will need to take of the aluminum and then put a panel that is meant to be for a backlit sign. I'm looking at the 4x8 clear or white acrylic panels from Grimco.
Can someone suggest me what would be the best solution for this. This would be my first backlit sign.
Also, which thickness of the panel is preferred for a such a big sign?
Or should I just go with a .1" backlit preprinted panel? (I can get it from S365)

Thank you

 

[reQ]

3/16 polycarb (lexan) is what you need. Use white, don't use clear. Also, depending on size, you might have to glue hanger strips/sliders to support in in the frame.

 

[Billct2]

What you use for the graphics depends on the design. Whenever possible I use cut translucent vinyl.
If you have to go for a digital print you need a double layer "day/night" print for best results.

 

[De.signs Nanaimo]

Man these old box signs can be huge problems, be careful! I usually et the old panel out first and duplicate the hanging strips. Some of the old sign cowboys did whatever they wanted and sizes and design of the box can be all over the place!

Use lexan for sure and as said above cut translucent is the best, lasts twice as long as printed, at least. Quote high, old boxes are going to be trouble, period! I actually use a local guy that is brilliant at older signs, he has knowledge and tricks that are priceless. He brings the faces to my local plastic shop they duplicate the faces, I pick them up, add vinyl at my shop and then my bucket truck guy picks them up and re-installs. Beauty is I mark up his quote a bit and make money while I do other work!

 

[Dennis422]

Thank you peoples
If you have any more suggestions, keep 'em coming please

 

[Andy D]

Personally, I prefer the way clear with white diffuser lights up
than white plex or poly, but it's probably better for you to go with white poly
on this one.

One word of warning, if the sign box was built to use pan faces and you put flat faces
in it, you're going to get hot spots from the lamps, not the worst thing in the world,
but you probably should warn your customer that it's a possibility....

Edited to add:

3/16 polycarb (lexan) is what you need. Use white, don't use clear. Also, depending on size, you might have to glue hanger strips/sliders to support in in the frame.

Yep, 3/16th is industry standard.
.10 is too thin.

 

[player]

If you use Lexan the hanging strips can be difficult to glue on. Special glue and small nuts and bolts are the way we used to do them.

 

[signbrad]

One word of warning, if the sign box was built to use pan faces and you put flat faces
in it, you're going to get hot spots from the lamps

This is especially a problem on a narrower cabinet.
Pan faces serve another function as well. They add rigity to the face. A 4x8 pan has greater blowout resistance than a flat face. Unless, of course, you use hanging bars. Embossed pan faces have even greater resistance to blowout.
Also, when the face is more rigid, or when hanging bars are used, servicing the sign is easier.

Personally, I prefer the way clear with white diffuser lights up
than white plex or poly, but it's probably better for you to go with white poly
on this one.

Andy D:
I assume you put the graphics on the first surface and the diffuser on the second surface? What brand diffuser do you use? Do you do this because you are putting LED lamps in cabinets? Or do you use it with fluorescent lamps as well?

Brad in Kansas City

 

[Dennis422]

A quick update on this.
They opened the box and who ever did it originally, never ran the electricity to the box.
That covers that, no need for translucent.

I will end up just replacing the printed material on these panels.

Thanks everyone!!!

 

[JoeBoomer]

For reference

That just happened to me with a 10'x20' box up 100'. My installers changed out all the lights and ballasts in it to find the power snipped at the base (for the last 8 years apparently).

Anyway: I use Oracal 3850 w/ 3M 8508 lam. Mounted to 3/16" Lexan (White)

I use cut translucent vinyl when higher quality is needed. Its a good mid-grade option.

At a previous company, we would just print double pass on Oracle 3640 w/ no lam and on acrylic. Surprisingly effective cheap solution. (Only thing that my solvent could do over my latex printer)

go team!

 

[ams]

I always prefer using Polycarbonate rather than Acrylic for the substrate, generally you should always use 3/16" thick for box cabinet signs. Unless the sign is over 4' X 8', then I'd use 1/4".
As for the material, Oracal makes a great Translucent, the 8500 series. For printable go with Oracal 3850, we swear by those two. Never had a problem.

 

[Andy D]

Andy D:
I assume you put the graphics on the first surface and the diffuser on the second surface? What brand diffuser do you use? Do you do this because you are putting LED lamps in cabinets? Or do you use it with fluorescent lamps as well?

Brad in Kansas City

Usually but not necessarily, sometime I will print a mirrored image to clear vinyl and then "laminate" with diffuser before or after applying
to the plastic.

We use 3M , normally 3535-30 or 3635-50 for fluorescent lights and 3735-50 for LED.

I prefer this method because it gives us more options and, IMHO, a better, more vivid lit face.
Allot of white backlit plastics tend to have a bluish or yellowish cast.