Need Help with ClearCoating Please!

[Armatur]

Hi all --

I am hand painting a large-ish sign and wondering if someone might be able to lead me in the right direction on what type of clear coat I can use or have applied by a 3rd party?

The Sign is on Extira primed with Feather Fill

I was told by the company who provided the board that I can use acrylic paint and should have no problem with the primer used.

What I am fearful of is clearcoating and having any adverse reaction between the paints/primer/clear coat. I need something for exterior, uv resistant and as long lasting as possible. Do you all have any guidance?

Thank you in advance!

 

[Gino]

Welcome from PA.........................................

 

[Poconopete]

Clear coat over exterior paint is not needed.

 

[Armatur]

Thank you guys! For the welcome and the info.

Ok, so my question now is won't the acrylic look rather flat without a finish coat? My paintings are pretty detailed and the finish seems to bring out the details/colors so I'm worried that if there's no finish they won't look as good? I'll attach a photo so you know what I mean.

Also, could you explain why a finish coat wouldn't be used so I understand? The idea is just so new to me so thank you in advance!

 

[WhiskeyDreamer]

damn...that's some sweet ass painting!!

 

[mrchips]

If you want to clearcoat over acrylic laytex, you can use 1Shot Speed Dry Acrylic Clear. Spray or brush.....always best to do a test first.

Remember, all the advice you get here is worth every penny you paid for it. Test first!

OH, when you say you are painting with acrylics......are you talking house paint or as in an artists painting w/acxrylics?

and Welcome from CT.

Joe,

Makin Chip$ and Havin Fun!

 

[RandallMac]

Ask your supplier for a clear graffiti guard. I have been using ClearShield which is a water based product. I knoe it can be used over vinyls, solvent based inks, inkjet output and Oneshot lettering enamels. Call the company, 888.253.2778 and ask about your acrylic paints.

Mrchips is absolutely correct about testing but may should have used all caps! TEST FIRST on something you don't care too much about. And I also agree with fenris242, that is some sweet ass painting.

 

[Jester1167]

I would start with the acrylic paint manufacture. I have seen well made signs that had clear coats on them, and after several years they look bad because they were flaking and pealing. That could be caused by several thing. 1. cheap clear coat or 2. the base and top coats weren't matched in their expansion and shrinkage rates. As nice as your work is I would hate to see them ruined in 3 or 4 years.

I also would spend some time talking with the hand painters on hear and find out what the best paint is for exterior signs. I know switching mediums is difficult, but you obviously have the talent to do it. If your signs last longer they will be worth more and your customers will be happier.

 

[dclet]

I used to do alot of work like this, with "artist's acrylic" I actually used
clear hp vinyl to "wrap" the entire piece. Used this technique alot on MDO

Never had an issue...with any of them.

 

[Poconopete]

Very nice work! You need to upload those pics to signs101, off site pics are not allowed.

 

[astrofan]

I used to do alot of work like this, with "artist's acrylic" I actually used
clear hp vinyl to "wrap" the entire piece. Used this technique alot on MDO

Never had an issue...with any of them.

My advise as well but there are UV resistant laminates that you can use with various sheens. I take my work to a sign shop near me that has a cold laminator and get them to do it. This is less risky than brush, roll, or spray-on clear coats because the clear film goes on dry and is a consistent thickness. No risk of your work bleeding, discoloring, or the clear flaking off.

nice work BTW

 

[Jillbeans]

You even managed to make Algerian look good.
What a talent.

Although I have never tried it, I do think clearing with a laminate film may be the best way forward. The 1S UV clear in an aerosol can crinkle paint if layed on too heavily. The brushable stuff might be OK, I have used it before with good results but NOT over acrylics, only over 1S which I allowed to dry for several days prior to coating.
I have heard that Frog Juice turns yellow so definitely avoid that.
I have heard good things about Clearshield but never tried it.
Perhaps, as others have said, a clear may not be needed if regular exterior latex was used.
At any rate, those are gorgeous pieces of art.
Love....Jill

 

[SignPainter]

Might try krylon crystal clear acrylic spray paint. Paint some blobs with no detail on scrap material and TEST first for a reaction, lifting, crackling etc.

 

[dfeicke]

First off, that's a terrific job! It definitely needs protection.

Go to Sherwin-Williams and get SherClear. It's an acrylic product, with UV inhibitors. If done on a cooler day, it will actually flow out a good bit, something that acrylics seldom do. It is very tough and will not react with your base coats.

You can spray it, or mostly, I just use a foam roller. It's kinda thick. Good stuff.
This is the first clear that I've ever really believed in, after 40-some years. I know there are others, but this is the one I'm familiar with.

 

[Gene]

Thanks for the info on the sher-clear. I tried it on my last sign. (sprayed) I have been leaning towards water base lately and this seems to be a solution for gloss and uv protection.
Gene

 

[CentralSigns]

I've been clearcoating with spar urathane, they use this stuff on wooden boats to show the wood. Don't see too many flaking wooden boats. Last better than laquer. I use a clear wood stain 3 coats then do about 20-30 coats of Urathane. Shines like glass. It's the best result I've gotten. Don't know how it would be over paint.