need some help with siser color print PU gloss

[bigblocktrader]

I got some siser color print PU gloss,printing with SP300V pressing with HIX N 800,So far it prints cuts and weeds excellent,no problem there,the problem is when I apply the TDD easy mask,flip it over and when removing the backing / carrier the print just wrinkles up and becomes useless, tried printing with and without heat ,just cant make it work asking for some help .I read instructions watched video,

please and thank you,

 

[CS-SignSupply]

So the tape is not holding the printed image in place? when you peel the backing, the print is not stuck to the transfer tape?

What ink are you using in your Roland?

Most standard clear transfer tapes will work with this product as well... The polyester tapes are reusable.

 

[mpn]

Post some photos. Is the print dry before you put the app tape on it?

 

[bigblocktrader]

thank you for responding, sorry for delayed responce,out of town.
once the TDD tape is on, removing the backing paper is when the problem start as pictured. print wants to lift from tape, this is approx 14"x 3". now i did about 6- 4" pocket prints with no issues.
I did let one 14'' dry over night same issue, but first 3 attemps no.the 4" pocket prints dryed for maybe 15 min.
I use ink from beacon graphics its not original roland its all I've ever used in my 2 years of experience eco-sol.

 

[mpn]

[FONT=arial, helvetica, sans-serif]Never had issues like that, but the poly mask took a bit more pressure to apply in my experience. I don't know, never used Beacon Graphics ink so I can't say. [/FONT]

 

[bigblocktrader]

the video shows print,weed,mask, peel and press,unless I mist somthing there is no extended dry time,
could it be the ink? I saw a post here someone had same problem but having trouble locating it.

 

[VISCOM]

pull the transfer tape slowly

 

[BIG EASY DOES IT]

It looks like your getting wrinkle creases in your transfer tape and then when you take the backer off the material is warping to the stretch of the transfer tape. It looked like the front side had some air under the transfer also.

 

[bigblocktrader]

I don't work with those materials but are you possible using too much downforce on your plotter? This will result in the blade scoring the liner, which will make it difficult to remove the graphics even with application tape.

Even if you've already cut them with too much weight...try squeegeeing them as hard as you can on the application tape side, then flip over and do the backside as hard as you can. Try to do this on a perfectly flat and smooth surface with a brand new, hard squeegee. After this is done you can run the graphic back and forth over a sharp edge of a work table, with the application tape side down. There is a bit of technique here so you don't crease the graphic or liner but it's not that difficult.

If all this doesn't work...I'd say you need to step up to a higher tack application tape.

I started at 35 (new blade) and saw some slight scoring, at 30 now, maybe thats why it weeds so nice,I'll back it off some more. the wrinkles seen on front side (pictured) are after backing remove do you think I should run it through laminator after tape ? lol

 

[bigblocktrader]

OK made two more attempts with a great deal of pressure applying TDD tape, first one got a small wrinkle at starting edge removing backing,just enough to throw it away, second one worked perfect,
guess I just need to get a feel for it.

I thank everyone for your input

 

[SightLine]

What has actually worked well for us on this material is to literally snatch the backing off very fast and hard. Tried a few different brands of transfer tape for it and it just does not like to stick well to the tape. It does stick very well to its backing though. Right before we are ready to press it we put it on a flat table, squeegee both sides all over very firmly, then with it face down on the table we start peeling the backing from the transfer and clear transfer tape, then at a very low angle snatch the every living crap out of the backing.

 

[bigblocktrader]

What has actually worked well for us on this material is to literally snatch the backing off very fast and hard. Tried a few different brands of transfer tape for it and it just does not like to stick well to the tape. It does stick very well to its backing though. Right before we are ready to press it we put it on a flat table, squeegee both sides all over very firmly, then with it face down on the table we start peeling the backing from the transfer and clear transfer tape, then at a very low angle snatch the every living crap out of the backing.

ok thanks will give that a try also,

 

[klingsdesigns]

What has actually worked well for us on this material is to literally snatch the backing off very fast and hard. Tried a few different brands of transfer tape for it and it just does not like to stick well to the tape. It does stick very well to its backing though. Right before we are ready to press it we put it on a flat table, squeegee both sides all over very firmly, then with it face down on the table we start peeling the backing from the transfer and clear transfer tape, then at a very low angle snatch the every living crap out of the backing.

I have been having a hell of a time with this stuff. I have tried everything to get it off onto the mask. I have tried the quick peeling. I rip some here and there and have to reprint.
I am scoring the backing a little bit. I am using a 45 clean cut blade. I have the pressure as low as it goes and still scoring.
Any ideas to help?
I dont want to back the blade into the holder to far i feel like it will ruin my print when it goes and cuts if it is rubbing it.

 

[mopar691]

I use siser pu almost daily. Best thing is make sure your not cutting to deep, that makes it hell to transfer. Use a hard squeegee and press like no tomorrow, flip and either peel in one very swift pull and pray or peel slowly and pay attention that you are pulling at the most extreme angle you can, pull the backing on top of the backing.

I can generally use the mask approx 15 to 20 times before it starts to fail to adhere to the pu film good enough. I mark it with a sharpie so placement is always the same and that way the lint from the garment does not get on the film when applied.

 

[mopar691]

I have been having a hell of a time with this stuff. I have tried everything to get it off onto the mask. I have tried the quick peeling. I rip some here and there and have to reprint.
I am scoring the backing a little bit. I am using a 45 clean cut blade. I have the pressure as low as it goes and still scoring.
Any ideas to help?
I dont want to back the blade into the holder to far i feel like it will ruin my print when it goes and cuts if it is rubbing it.

You will not ruin it from the holder rubbing. If your scoring the plastic liner you will have a bad time. need less blade. That is the biggest mistake I see people make with the PU film is cutting to deep. Then its all over cause it is almost impossible to be saved.

 

[klingsdesigns]

You will not ruin it from the holder rubbing. If your scoring the plastic liner you will have a bad time. need less blade. That is the biggest mistake I see people make with the PU film is cutting to deep. Then its all over cause it is almost impossible to be saved.

I am cutting into the backing a little bit. I will try to back it off some more. Its weird because i have never had a problem with this until they started this newer version of pu.
I have been using the edge of the table to get it to mask, i have tried the pull and pray. Works sometimes but a lot of times it rips some of the pu.

 

[mopar691]

I am cutting some tomorrow, I will post a simple vid or pic of how I am doing it and how I am pulling it. it does take a knack to get used to but I love the stuff.

 

[klingsdesigns]

I am cutting some tomorrow, I will post a simple vid or pic of how I am doing it and how I am pulling it. it does take a knack to get used to but I love the stuff.

I have been using it for about 3-4 years now and just started having a problem on my last roll in october i believe. Then they shipped me another roll, and still have problems.

 

[mopar691]

Have you tried a different blade? I found new cc blades and this do not mix well. Do not know if they are to sharp or what but it seems better when I use a used one or a generic.

Are you using gloss or matte? I did have more problems with the gloss so I do not purchase it anymore. If the need for gloss finish comes up I just repress with teflon.

 

[klingsdesigns]

Have you tried a different blade? I found new cc blades and this do not mix well. Do not know if they are to sharp or what but it seems better when I use a used one or a generic.

Are you using gloss or matte? I did have more problems with the gloss so I do not purchase it anymore. If the need for gloss finish comes up I just repress with teflon.

We are using the matte. I just backed my blade far as it would go so it barely cut into the pu. Nothing really was cut into the backing. Still had the same problem. I do have an old blade lying around that i will try.
I know the cc are extremely sharp. I also email cc to see what they thought.

 

[klingsdesigns]

Have you tried a different blade? I found new cc blades and this do not mix well. Do not know if they are to sharp or what but it seems better when I use a used one or a generic.

Are you using gloss or matte? I did have more problems with the gloss so I do not purchase it anymore. If the need for gloss finish comes up I just repress with teflon.

What degree blade are you using?

 

[mopar691]

I use a 45 for everything.

I use a super stiff squeegee and put all my effort into it, like almost stand on the thing and peel immediately after.