• I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...

Need suggestion for a car show sign with stand

S

scarface

Guest
Hey guys!

I have a good customer i have been working with lately who needs a single sided sign for in front of his personal car at a car show in a week.

He said he wanted the design for it to be what's on the back of his business cards i did for him so that parts pretty much done.

The size is going to be 24"w x 36"t and i'm thinking of using a aluminum blank and a Plasticade econo classic a frame for easy use http://www.americanlouver.com/Plasticade/Econo Classic.asp

What thickness aluminum do you suggest i use with this? .040, .063 or .080? It says it supports up to 3/16" thick material and i don't want the blank to bow.

Also, i don't need any double sided velcro or nothing with this as it says right? Just simple slide in?

Thanks everyone!
 

iSign

New Member
in my opinion, it's much too large.
also, why don't you post the layout?

Do you go to car shows? There is awesome work at those things, on the cars, & sometimes on the signs... the information on his sign & the size of the sign need to be kept in perspective... the car is the primary message, so 24" x 36' seems rather large, especially if it is just a handful of basic lines of copy... people will walk by 5 feet away.. I've seen 1st place cars using 12' x 18" signs to list their engine specs, paint & sound system credentials... maybe 18x24 is ok too... & I see a lot of guys just lean a panel against the bumper.. that plastic a-frame will look tacky around so much automotive gloos enamel... by the way, I'll suggest you lay down some awesome metallic of shade-shifter vinyl background before lettering that sign... make it fit in better... but you were probably already going to do that...
 
S

scarface

Guest
in my opinion, it's much too large.
also, why don't you post the layout?

Do you go to car shows? There is awesome work at those things, on the cars, & sometimes on the signs... the information on his sign & the size of the sign need to be kept in perspective... the car is the primary message, so 24" x 36' seems rather large, especially if it is just a handful of basic lines of copy... people will walk by 5 feet away.. I've seen 1st place cars using 12' x 18" signs to list their engine specs, paint & sound system credentials... maybe 18x24 is ok too... & I see a lot of guys just lean a panel against the bumper.. that plastic a-frame will look tacky around so much automotive gloos enamel... by the way, I'll suggest you lay down some awesome metallic of shade-shifter vinyl background before lettering that sign... make it fit in better... but you were probably already going to do that...

The layout has nothing to do with my post questions. The layout will be adjusted from the business card to fit the sizing.

The sign is to advertise his custom paint and body work company which built his entire car.
 

GAC05

Quit buggin' me
What Doug said.
Or even do clear 1/4 acrylic - reverse mount the vinyl and then tint the back or do a matching/contrasting colored panel over the letters to give you some depth to the display.

That econo plastic a-frame would look better with a "Caution - Wet Floor" warning on it.

wayne k
guam usa
 

pointjockey

New Member
I do lots of 16X20 prints mounted on various substrates for car show guys/gals. Some show promoters do not alllow very large signage, but I have done several 24x36. The A-Frame you list is easy to use, just slide in your panel.
 

iSign

New Member
The layout has nothing to do with my post questions. The layout will be adjusted from the business card to fit the sizing.

The sign is to advertise his custom paint and body work company which built his entire car.

well, it has everything to do with my answer... I think the sign is going to look ridiculous, unless you have twice as much to say as I've ever seen on all the signs at the dozen car shows I've attended... and the plasti-cade is still tacky IMO... but you don't want to hear that...

..so excuse me for thinking you would appreciate the effort to help you not waste time or money doing something ineffective or inappropriate... do WTF you want then...

I hope everyone else will just stick to the "post questions" for you, as instructed :rolleyes:
 

OldPaint

New Member
CAR SHOW SIGNS FALL INTO "SHOW CARD".........application. the biggest it should be is 32" tall and 24-28" wide. now that said, it really dont need to be this big. the plastic stand is crap.
either do a wooden stand, or get something like a table top easel. so you will have to make sign outa something with some weight, or it will blow over.
http://content.etilize.com/Large/1010067977.jpg
now as far as the sign, 1/4" plexi, pick a color. hand lettering these really are classic. sorta goes with the "period" of the car. if its a "tuner" it dont matter, some ive seem are really ugly. also ive done a lot a mirrors.....with lettering on it. you can buy these already framed. it gives painted or vinyl letters a depth.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
22” x 28” is about the largest one I’ve ever done for custom car shows.

The clear acrylic is a very nice approach if you do it right.
I’ve also seen nice shocards with the sign simply propped up against the car with a mirror under the shocard.
Like Doug said… that ‘A’ frame is gonna look foolish.

These guys spend thousands of dollars on these cars and you’re thinking of using a cheap prop. Won’t work. Don’t do it.

Also, you’re right, the layout has nothing to do with your question, but he’s looking out for your back and that’s what this place is all about. Not always getting your question answered immediately, doesn’t mean the other comments aren’t any good. As someone just said to me the other day… don’t shoot the messenger. We’re always seeing things, the OP might’ve forgotten or overlooked. So, post up the picture and let others here help you put together a dynamite shocard for your good customer.
 

Dave Drane

New Member
I also was thinking the clear acryllic engraved on the back. A black background with a photo, print or whatever and then spacers to hold the acryllic a short space off the background to cast a natural shadow.
 

Jillbeans

New Member
I would use an 18"x24" .063 blank, no stand whatsoever.
Flood coat the blank with vinyl in the color to match the car, or better yet, have it sprayed with automotive paint.
These things should look classy, not tacky.
Usually the customer sets them inside the open hood of the car, or lays them flat in front of the car.
At least at the shows I've been to.
Layout should be in sho-card form.
You could even purchase a nice framed mirror and apply lettering to that.
Love....Jill
 

JasperST

New Member
I agree that it's way too big. Most people are not good at guesstimating sizes, I show them examples on my wall.

For showcards I like to use colored acrylic, it looks sharp and changes are possible down the road. I round the corners and border them. That stand option doesn't look too classy either, this is a for a show, I would tell them to get a small wooden easel. Easy transporting!
 

SignManiac

New Member
The plasti-cade a frame looks cheesy. If that's the direction you want to go, you might as well use a 4 mil coroplast blank with a step stake. I made quite a few back in the day from aluminum that were painted, hand lettered, pinstriped, a little airbrushing, couple of pics. They always looked custom and classy.

If you're only going to copy a business card layout on it then it doesn't matter what you use for it.
 

artsnletters

New Member
ditto on the plasticade.......cheezy poofs. I make them a little different with colored or smoke plex usually 3/16" or 1/4" depending on what i have in the shop. I round the corners and usually measure out a "foot" for the bottom, like 8" to 10" and heat the plex up with a propane torch and fold the bottom under to make a stand up sign- no easel needed. Not quite as easy to transport since it's not flat. But they don't blow over either. I made the one for my bike with aluminum and separately put on a angled stand and attached it with 2 sided tape. Same concept. My sign was all done by hand and painted with House of Kolor paint. A little heavy on the copy but you get the idea....
Tim
 

Attachments

  • bike&sign.jpg
    bike&sign.jpg
    115.9 KB · Views: 193
  • nitro-harley-sign.jpg
    nitro-harley-sign.jpg
    92.3 KB · Views: 175

JR's

New Member
What Doug said.
Or even do clear 1/4 acrylic - reverse mount the vinyl and then tint the back or do a matching/contrasting colored panel over the letters to give you some depth to the display.

That econo plastic a-frame would look better with a "Caution - Wet Floor" warning on it.

wayne k
guam usa

dido
 

high impact

New Member
artsnletters nailed it. That is exactly how we do them and I have done quite a few since I'm a gear head and have a show car myself. I did one 36 inch board for a guy who brought in his own substrate (I don't recommend that size) his board looks goofy at every car show I see him at. I've used aluminum and acrylic but favor the acrylic to a large degree, they simply look a lot better.The clear acrylic with the vinyl backing produces a dynamite shadow effect and depth. Good luck.
 

artsnletters

New Member
artsnletters nailed it. That is exactly how we do them and I have done quite a few since I'm a gear head and have a show car myself. I did one 36 inch board for a guy who brought in his own substrate (I don't recommend that size) his board looks goofy at every car show I see him at. I've used aluminum and acrylic but favor the acrylic to a large degree, they simply look a lot better.The clear acrylic with the vinyl backing produces a dynamite shadow effect and depth. Good luck.
THANKS FOR THE PROPS... On the aluminum one (mine), i ground the background with 36 grit in a random pattern and candied over that, then coated main sign area with pearl black. I then finished cleared it and hand lettered it. You should see it in the sun or under show lights....it really pops. Show cars deserve this type of treatment ESPECIALLY if they are advertising their building or painting skills. A shitty plasticade would make me shy away from cars or builders like that because it shows they're either cheap or don't know shit about putting their best foot forward.
Tim
 

GoodPeopleFlags

New Member
Gonna be a thread pirate for a second. (Sorry Scarface!)

I also have a upcoming job for a car show sign for an old, restored Corvette. The customer's concern right now is a stand. Some shows will be outside so he wants something that will not easily be blown over (and possibly scratch a car!) but that can sit on pavement, or work for an indoor show. Any suggestions?

I'm loving the ideas for the sign you guys are posting! Giving me some things to think about! Thanks!
 

artsnletters

New Member
Gonna be a thread pirate for a second. (Sorry Scarface!)

I also have a upcoming job for a car show sign for an old, restored Corvette. The customer's concern right now is a stand. Some shows will be outside so he wants something that will not easily be blown over (and possibly scratch a car!) but that can sit on pavement, or work for an indoor show. Any suggestions?

I'm loving the ideas for the sign you guys are posting! Giving me some things to think about! Thanks!
the kind i did with the bent under 'foot' works well cause you can put a weight on it on the back side if conditions dictate. then they never (well haven't seen one yet) blow over.
Tim
 

CentralSigns

New Member
Sandblast Styrofoam its light, set it on the roof trunk lid. Make sure you prime with latex primer and coat with one touch any colour to match. Classy look once it's all done.
 

CentralSigns

New Member
Sandblast Styrofoam its light, set it on the roof trunk lid. Make sure you prime with latex primer and coat with one touch any colour to match. Classy look once it's all done. Of course indoor only
 
Top