Desert_Signs
New Member
I didn't see where you've tried changing the ink limits. Have you?
-
I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...
Nightmare Latex Printer
- Thread starter jkdbjj
- Start date
ProWraps
New Member
jkdbjj
New Member
This I tend to agree with. This fits with what the techs have said.
Per the tech (HP tech) the airflow needs to be high to disperse the carrier in the chemical process. In fact if it is too low, it allows the oil even more, because the carrier isn't dispersed enough.
First of all, I have read the manual several times, had the reseller (whom knew less than I do about printers and rips, as I have almost 10 years direct operation experience with a multitude of print technologies)the resller spent a day trying to get it to work properly, and it even wet up on them. So I basically told them I would drive them to the airport if they were ready, cause they were just wasting my time after installation. Yes, I know that sounds bad, but it is the truth.
I am with you on this, but I am at the mercy of the technicians trouble shooting protocol, so I have no choice.
I agree, so my offsets are midline or set to zero.
If helpful and applicable, please do if you feel it will help.
You have to remember, I have been sold equipment from a reseller that is obviously not prepared to troubleshoot this equipment, so I can only skirt by until someone steps up and shows me the light.
jkdbjj
New Member
Hi, I did not try that. I am not making custom profiles for this machine, so I had not adjusted ink levels.
On this machine, can it be an independent adjustment or is it the whole inkset that is adjusted? If individually controlled, should I start with the black?
dypinc
New Member
What elevation above sea level is the location where you have this printer installed, and what is the room temp and humidity.
You may have no choice but to create your own linearization, light ink curves, ink limits, and profiles.
jkdbjj
New Member
Flat metro in the Carolinas, so we are pretty much sea level. Room temp always around 73 degrees. Humidity is stable, but I have not tested that.
HulkSmash
New Member
huh? i dont remember your mom stopping by last night
Oops, we double booked.
Question.
So the oily residue is appearing due to condensation because the 'storage' area is cool, and the print contains heat/moisture.
If it is lammed right away, then air cannot get to the print, and the oily residue will not be created under the lam?
We've been letting our prints sit for extra drying, fearing that laminating too soon may cause adhesion to be lost between the lam and the print (due to oil appearing). But now I am thinking maybe lamming right away might prevent any oily residue from appearing? or would a cool room still cause oil to appear under the lam?
We had a sprint car wrap we did when we first got our machine, and I've a feeling our drying times weren't dialed in, because a week later the lam all separated from the vinyl in extremely concave areas. Later we witnessed the oily residue on some prints, and have been assuming they need additional drying time when this occurs. Like other have noticed, it tends to be on burgundy/dark reds.
So the oily residue is appearing due to condensation because the 'storage' area is cool, and the print contains heat/moisture.
If it is lammed right away, then air cannot get to the print, and the oily residue will not be created under the lam?
We've been letting our prints sit for extra drying, fearing that laminating too soon may cause adhesion to be lost between the lam and the print (due to oil appearing). But now I am thinking maybe lamming right away might prevent any oily residue from appearing? or would a cool room still cause oil to appear under the lam?
We had a sprint car wrap we did when we first got our machine, and I've a feeling our drying times weren't dialed in, because a week later the lam all separated from the vinyl in extremely concave areas. Later we witnessed the oily residue on some prints, and have been assuming they need additional drying time when this occurs. Like other have noticed, it tends to be on burgundy/dark reds.
jkdbjj
New Member
problem is the oiliness never dries, even after days.
I wouldn't risk the cost of the lam to experiment, you know?
For the record, I don't know why the oil is showing up, condensation is simply one thing on the table at this point.
ProWraps
New Member
OMFG.. for the first time in my life i just shat out of my nose. holly crap. ive never laughed so hard.
so how was she?
Desert_Signs
New Member
I'm not sure how Onyx works. I'd seriously try that. It sounds VERY similar to what was happening to me when I created a new profile and set the ink limits too high. I run Caldera, or I'd send you some of my profiles to try out.
I had a small bout with this problem, also usually with dark areas (maroon and red). Mine simply had to do with room temp and humidity, since my printer is in my chilly basement. Rewetting is caused by moisture in the air condensing back onto the print because of differences in temp between the cooling media and ambient air temps. Check your humidity, it's damp in the Carolinas. A dehumidifier maybe. Also, I run low ink levels in my rip, it seems to help. I'm going to guess the problem is in your rip...too much ink and it's not really curing. Honestly if everything is right and the print is fully cured you should be able to pour water on it and it won't re-wet. I had a tech come by that really helped with profiles, basically for me I learned that sometimes the profiles listed for some materials don't work in my environment. I'm not afraid to change things up to get a good print. The temp in my basement is usually in the low 60's and humidity is 40% to 60% in the winter. I have almost completely resolved the rewetting issues for my environment but I still have to dry a small area with a heat gun on occasion.
Last edited:
Chimuka
New Member
If heavy saturation is a problem , are prints for translucsent faces a problem as well. I have a Mutoh 1304 and I like RED REDS, and clean burgundys. I have a Summa Durachrome with which I used a lot of intense red and burgundy spot colors. I have matched it very close with the Mutoh. To get that red , it takes a fair amount of magenta. Am I looking for trouble changing to the latex printer for my applications? Weak reds are not acceptable for me.
HulkSmash
New Member
I'm just upset megaupload guy got raped by the FBI.
dypinc
New Member
Do your own Color Management and you won't have these issues.