Non Adhesive clear

[CanuckSigns]

Does anyone know of a solvent printable clear film that does not have adhesive? Something like a clear acetate? We use it for printing donor names and sandwiching between 2 layers of acrylic.

 

[JBurton]

Optically clear? I've come across textured polycarbonate from nekoosa. There's also clear polyester films that are printable. Never tried it but: https://www.gogsg.com/2396800/product/y/natura-eco-sol-clear-polyester-film
For small donor plaques that don't change, we print on clear in reverse, laminate with arlon satin, and call it a day. The Satin hids any imperfections or glue lines, while still allowing the color of the wall to come through.

 

[SignMeUpGraphics]

There's probably something in the Yupo range that matches that requirement.
We've used Octopus in the past, but that has micro suction cups on the rear side, despite being virtually optically clear.

 

[Boudica]

We've printed on acetate with our solvent printers. Would acetate not work?

 

[Boudica]

Ooh, clear glass apeel is optically clear. It has the little suction cups, but so what... It won't slip.

There's probably something in the Yupo range that matches that requirement.
We've used Octopus in the past, but that has micro suction cups on the rear side, despite being virtually optically clear.

 

[Zendavor Signs]

10 or 15mil polycarbonate should work fine. You can get it textured, like JBurton said, or just straight clear. We get ours from Laird Plastics

 

[CanuckSigns]

Optically clear? I've come across textured polycarbonate from nekoosa. There's also clear polyester films that are printable. Never tried it but: https://www.gogsg.com/2396800/product/y/natura-eco-sol-clear-polyester-film
For small donor plaques that don't change, we print on clear in reverse, laminate with arlon satin, and call it a day. The Satin hids any imperfections or glue lines, while still allowing the color of the wall to come through.

Thanks, it doesn't need to be optically clear. We've been using a product from Magic that works ok but it's very expensive and had to be imported from the states which pretty much doubles the cost.

For donor plaques that don't change we also print on clear vinyl and just adhere it to the acrylic, but I need something for changeable panels.

 

[Boudica]

Thanks, it doesn't need to be optically clear. We've been using a product from Magic that works ok but it's very expensive and had to be imported from the states which pretty much doubles the cost.

For donor plaques that don't change we also print on clear vinyl and just adhere it to the acrylic, but I need something for changeable panels.

...so back to why not acetate, if you want acetate -like? I'll look tomorrow to see what we use. It's printable acetate. Used for donor panels for a university alumni donor wall. We've been making updated panels for years with it.

 

[Zoogee World]

Would a clear static cling or a clear adhesive media with clear glue work?

 

[MikePro]

clear polyester film(linked) would be your best bet
haven't used this one specifically, but just search/inquire "printable non-adhesive optically clear polyester film" through your suppliers.

 

[ikarasu]

This is a bit overkill.... But 3m optically clear overlam for window perf comes on a clear backer, and it's printable with solvent and latex. Just don't peel it off the liner!

8518 would work too... but it's more of a yellowish liner / look to it? Might work good enough and it's cheaper.

Look for screen printing film - I just bought 30ish rolls from us for $20 each when gans stopped selling digital. Latex and UV prints on these ones, but solvent wipes off... It's not coated for solvent.

Another option would be to print on clear... And apply it to screen printing film, or to a thin lexan or something. We buy 24x48 sheets of it fron Laird / nd graphics, we usually scree print on it but I don't see why you couldn't print on a clear and go overtop of it


All graphic supplies came out with a barrier shield during covid... We got our solvent to print on it nicely, it's cheap too.- maybe Spicer's still carries it?

3m 7725-114 - we always solvent print on 7725. It has an adhesive... But it has a clear backer as well. I don't think the backer has any markings on it... But again you could print on it, cut it up and just not peel the vinyl off the backer.



Few options for you!

 

[signheremd]

Gerber Edge Positive and Gerber Lexedge. Grimco sells them as do many other places

 

[JBurton]

But 3m optically clear overlam for window perf comes on a clear backer

In my experience, the clear backer on 8918 has visible lines down the length of the roll, like the backing got dragged during the production process. I don't use the stuff often so it could be unique to a roll I got.

3m 7725-114 - we always solvent print on 7725. It has an adhesive... But it has a clear backer as well. I don't think the backer has any markings on it...

It does have barely visible 3m branding throughout, though the white is opaque enough to make them invisible from the face side. I had to look up 7725-114, and realized it is a clear product, I've never laid hands on it, so it may have no marking. But now I'm wondering what niche that product fits? It's not a laminate, nor is it intended to print on, it's surely too thin to be considered protective, and it's not even a diffusion film.

 

[ikarasu]

8918 is usually clear for us, but it gets marks after it goes into the printer - I think it dragging against the little ribs on a latex printer.makes.it cloudy. But it can be wiped away (at least ours)

.I think all 7725s use the same backer.... so it might not work then. I've never paid attention to it, so no idea. I know 3m is using a new clear backer on all their premium laminates due to supply issues, and it was supposed to be a permanent change... Not sure if that makes it better for this application or worst.... I don't handle much wide format stuff at work anymore, so I don't see the materials as much


We use 7725-114 for screen printing. We print on white with our solvent and latex with no issues... So I'm guessing that can work with the clear too, but we've never tried it. I think it can be used as an overlam as well though.


It's like 1170 - 1172, 3, 5 , etc are all transparent films used for traffic. Then there's 1170 which is a clear - it's still considered an electrocut film... but it's the "overlam" you're supposed to use on traffic signage.

3m does seem weird stuff with their naming conventions

 

[JBurton]

I don't handle much wide format stuff at work anymore

Really, what side of the business are you actually in these days? I realize you play with your wide format at home, but was under the impression you were managing production/IT at your day job?

3m does seem weird stuff with their naming conventions

I realized this the first time I ordered IJ180, and had to pick from 3 or so versions with no clear differences. All their non-traffic cut vinyl has had the same numbers for the past 20 years, and now they're trying to muck up the 3630 line with the 3730 series, why is golden yellow offered in both? Well ya see the 3730 series is a better option for LED's... I thought the point of a cast colored vinyl was consistency, now I could potentially mix old 3630 with subbed 3730 and my faces will look radically different. Thanks guys.

 

[ikarasu]

Really, what side of the business are you actually in these days? I realize you play with your wide format at home, but was under the impression you were managing production/IT at your day job?

I realized this the first time I ordered IJ180, and had to pick from 3 or so versions with no clear differences. All their non-traffic cut vinyl has had the same numbers for the past 20 years, and now they're trying to muck up the 3630 line with the 3730 series, why is golden yellow offered in both? Well ya see the 3730 series is a better option for LED's... I thought the point of a cast colored vinyl was consistency, now I could potentially mix old 3630 with subbed 3730 and my faces will look radically different. Thanks guys.

Ive been production manager for a few years now, and hired someone to do all the printing... I miss it, I still handle the printing when the other guy is on vacation... It's sooo much more peaceful and less hectic than trying to manager 20 people most of my day is now fixing other people's mistakes... Filling in, in areas someone is off.... I do lots of CNC and lots of installs, sadly our new wide format operator is very punctual so I don't play around upstairs as much as I'd like

Im in charge of purchasing though, so I still get to bring in all the materials / play with new ones. Only good thing is I get a much larger say in what equipment we buy.. most of my home printer purchases are because I want to play with new machines (I just bought a 2x4 ft 120w laser for home!) So now we're not stuck on archeiac equipment at least. I make them budget for a new printer every 5 years.

 

[JBurton]

Ive been production manager for a few years now, and hired someone to do all the printing... I miss it, I still handle the printing when the other guy is on vacation... It's sooo much more peaceful and less hectic than trying to manager 20 people most of my day is now fixing other people's mistakes... Filling in, in areas someone is off.... I do lots of CNC and lots of installs, sadly our new wide format operator is very punctual so I don't play around upstairs as much as I'd like

Im in charge of purchasing though, so I still get to bring in all the materials / play with new ones. Only good thing is I get a much larger say in what equipment we buy.. most of my home printer purchases are because I want to play with new machines (I just bought a 2x4 ft 120w laser for home!) So now we're not stuck on archeiac equipment at least. I make them budget for a new printer every 5 years.

Oh boy, it seems like every shop leans hard on one person and they end up with all the hats like you! I'm in the same boat, except there is also the family debate that has to take place at purchase time, but something as simple as what LED's can derail a project for a week while 3 people argue, get mad, stop arguing for the day, and kick the canned argument down the road a couple of days.
And I totally agree, going from trying to keep everyone busy, to suddenly get to jump into production, the day seems to fly by in a much more relaxing way... so the next morning can have twice as many issues to start off with!