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Need Help Nozzel test cyan prints black, magenta prints organge

Rualsignmaker

New Member
I'm confused by this test print. I lost black ink during a print. Did a head soak now this? What the heck is happening?

I swapped the Y/M with the B/C to see if it was a data issue. Looks like I'm buying a print head....

Roland SP540 dinosaur
20220303_203835.jpg
 
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ToTo

Professional Support
Could be cross contamination through capping or damaged sealing inside printhead.
Is ink also mixed in dampener?
Check if capping pump is working.
 

Rualsignmaker

New Member
Could be cross contamination through capping or damaged sealing inside printhead.
Is ink also mixed in dampener?
Check if capping pump is working.
I ordered a new pump, dampeners and cap tops and print head. My thing is why is the magenta orange?

The pump has sounded bad lately. Like after a long day it sounds tired when it runs if that makes sense
 
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Rualsignmaker

New Member
Okay I think I figured it out. Pumps been making a weird noise lately. So it's not drawing the ink through the dampeners so when I did a head soak I lost cyan and magenta from just losing black only. Also when I released the clip pinching the drain line nothing came out even tho I poured cleaning solution into the cap tops. So maybe a clog?

Whats the best way to clear the dampers, and captops and lines to and from the pump? Syringe and cleaning solution?

This would be until the parts show up monday. I plan on replacing the captops, dampers and pump at least. Also have a head and kit just incase the black and cyan head is bad
Little bit Magenta + more yellow = orange…
 

Solventinkjet

DIY Printer Fixing Guide
Okay I think I figured it out. Pumps been making a weird noise lately. So it's not drawing the ink through the dampeners so when I did a head soak I lost cyan and magenta from just losing black only. Also when I released the clip pinching the drain line nothing came out even tho I poured cleaning solution into the cap tops. So maybe a clog?

Whats the best way to clear the dampers, and captops and lines to and from the pump? Syringe and cleaning solution?

This would be until the parts show up monday. I plan on replacing the captops, dampers and pump at least. Also have a head and kit just incase the black and cyan head is bad
Looks like you're working on an SP300 or similar. You're fine to just leave it capped and don't need to clear the system out. If solution didn't come through after doing the soak, I'd say there is a clog for sure. Usually it's in the little y connector but it could be anywhere in the tubes below the cap tops including inside the pump. If you have contamination that is going far up into the ink line above the damper, the best way to clear it out is to take the cartridge out, suck the ink out through the damper with a syringe, and then refill with clean ink. No need to flush with solution or anything. I think if you get the dampers, cap tops, and pump changed, other than a clog in the y connector, it should do the trick.
 

jfiscus

Rap Master
Magenta and yellow share the same pump and black/cyan share the other pump. The caps Y into the pump and if the ink sets and doesn't pump correctly ink will flow back up into the other head(s) and make your colors off. These printers are just "gravity fed" systems under no pressure in the lines.
 

Rualsignmaker

New Member
Looks like you're working on an SP300 or similar. You're fine to just leave it capped and don't need to clear the system out. If solution didn't come through after doing the soak, I'd say there is a clog for sure. Usually it's in the little y connector but it could be anywhere in the tubes below the cap tops including inside the pump. If you have contamination that is going far up into the ink line above the damper, the best way to clear it out is to take the cartridge out, suck the ink out through the damper with a syringe, and then refill with clean ink. No need to flush with solution or anything. I think if you get the dampers, cap tops, and pump changed, other than a clog in the y connector, it should do the trick.
Found a clog at the Y connector and in the drain line. Cleared both. Replaced the B&C dampers. Still having an issue. I noticed my captops are not seating correctly on the heads causing what I am assuming is a leak. I can draw and get good suction out of the cap tops with a syringe. But when it comes to test prints and cleanings I lose all ink in both heads. Only when I prime the heads do I get any ink in a test print at all. How do I adjust the capping station carriage to the right? I also noticed the two white thumb screws on the head carriage were loose.

(the damage to the M/Y head has been there since I bought the machine. I do have a spare head I can use) pulling my hair out at this one. About to toss the machine.
20220305_201911.jpg
 

UserTK-421

New Member
From the looks of that, you should absolutely perform a Flushing Position Adjustment and get those print heads better aligned with the cap tops, you can see the outlines of where they normally sit and it is indeed off by a fair amount.
 

Rualsignmaker

New Member
From the looks of that, you should absolutely perform a Flushing Position Adjustment and get those print heads better aligned with the cap tops, you can see the outlines of where they normally sit and it is indeed off by a fair amount.
Wonderful. I will try that tonight. I hope this thread helps others in the future. So here is a link to a manual I found on the procedure. I just hope it's the same for mine since I have 2 heads and 2 cap tops.
 

Rualsignmaker

New Member
Ended up having a blown fuse for the B/C head.
- Replaced B/C Head Fuse
- Captop gap check and adjusted
- Cleared clog in Y connector, pump, and waste line
- Replaced all 4 dampers (found particles in all 4 mesh screens)
- Replaced B/C Head
- Both captops
- Flipped over encoder strip (found several parts damaged)
- Roland tech did all the calibration test

Success! Printing good as new!
 
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