We recently switched from 256 to 258 inks to get better adhesion. We subsurface print mostly on polycarbonate and the adhesion from the 256 ink wasn't cutting it. We are now getting better adhesion, but are fighting some kind of reaction that is happening between the ink and the 3M 467adhesive we apply to the back. Another issue that has just cropped up, is that I' getting some kind of clear residue that is getting left behind, and is showing up in the lighter colors, especially white. In the case where the residue is in the waste areas, I can clean it off with alcohol, so It's not cured, whatever t is. Has anyone seen this before? I called the support number, no no big surprise that the guy couldn't help me. A "specialist" s supposed to call me back.
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Oce 258 ink problems
- Thread starter wfin73
- Start date
Is the MP467 pulling the ink off the polycarb? It has this reaction on applied vinyl on the second surface. Getting ready to buy a flabed for this very application. Hate to hear it has issues.
When we apply the 467, then apply our graphic to something (metal filing cabinet for testing sake), then pull the part off after it has sat for a time, the ink will completely delaminate from the polycarb, leaving the adhesive and ink stuck to the cabinet. Before applying the adhesive, adhesion will be good, passing a cross hatch tape test. A similar part that is screen printed will pull completely off and not leave the ink and adhesive behind. We've heard from other printers that it is most likely something in the adhesive reacting with the ink.
Same issue here. Eerily similar really.
We have an Arizona 480GT, running 258 inks and printing on 8b35 .010 polycarbonate.
We are printing second surface(Quality Layered) with CMYK going down first then a white backup to follow.
It passes initial ASTM scratch test requirements. It is only when we apply adhesive(3M 467/468/9459 White) to the rear are we having issues(It seems.)
The ink will de-laminate with the adhesive for the most part after being applied to metal surfaces for testing.
Our lamps are almost brand new and run these at the maximum lamp settings and even supplement it with additional UV curing by running it through a UV dryer.
It just seems the bond between the adhesive and ink is stronger than the bond between the ink and material.
I have tried a couple of different adhesion promoters as well, to no avail.
wfin73, have you found a solution to this yet?
We have an Arizona 480GT, running 258 inks and printing on 8b35 .010 polycarbonate.
We are printing second surface(Quality Layered) with CMYK going down first then a white backup to follow.
It passes initial ASTM scratch test requirements. It is only when we apply adhesive(3M 467/468/9459 White) to the rear are we having issues(It seems.)
The ink will de-laminate with the adhesive for the most part after being applied to metal surfaces for testing.
Our lamps are almost brand new and run these at the maximum lamp settings and even supplement it with additional UV curing by running it through a UV dryer.
It just seems the bond between the adhesive and ink is stronger than the bond between the ink and material.
I have tried a couple of different adhesion promoters as well, to no avail.
wfin73, have you found a solution to this yet?
Grizzly
It’s all about your print!
Print Color Down First
We run the 256 inks on our 660XT. We have pretty good ink adhesion on acrylic and lexan, as long as color goes down first, and white backs it.
I've run white down first and you can peal it off like static cling!
Do the 258 inks really stick better? I heard that they just have a lower surface energy so when you do a standard adhesion test it appears that they stick better, but in all reality the tape just doesn't stick as good to the ink.
We run the 256 inks on our 660XT. We have pretty good ink adhesion on acrylic and lexan, as long as color goes down first, and white backs it.
I've run white down first and you can peal it off like static cling!
Do the 258 inks really stick better? I heard that they just have a lower surface energy so when you do a standard adhesion test it appears that they stick better, but in all reality the tape just doesn't stick as good to the ink.
I typically try to let them cure as much as possible. Always 24 hours minimum.
If you could let me know the results of that 467 test on layered printed lexan, that would be amazing.
Anyone have any luck printing on polycarbonates?
#PrintLife
New Member
I'm curious as to why you switched from the 256 ink. We are currently running the 256 ink and we are having bad curing issues. We just changed out our lamps and did a detailed cleaning and I still have to run the lamps on max(9) to prevent bad sticking. Even though it's still sticking and sounds like Velcro when pulling the Corro off the bed our adhesion is pretty good. We are using the 3M Prep Solvent 70 which doesn't leave behind any residue.