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Oce vs. Flora

Brian27

New Member
Anyone have any experience with Flora printers? We're looking to replace our Roland flatbed and our dealer only carries Flora and Oce. We got some samples from Oce Monday and they're ok but the ink doesn't seem very durable. It's pretty soft and has a rough texture to it. We print a lot of solid black and it scratches with a light touch of fingernails whereas our Roland inks do not.
 

Correct Color

New Member
Look at the CET printers .... Ink adhesion is AWESOME

Er...

What printheads? What ink?

The Flora's a decent little machine. Seems to be pretty well put together, and overall has a good solid look, sound and feel to it.

The only one I've ever profiled however probably was capable of maybe 2/3 - 3/4 of the gamut of the Oces I've profiled over the years.

However, in UV's other than HP, gamut size and inking characteristics are really more dependent on ink and printheads than they are on the frame and the name on the frame holding them.
 

greysquirrel

New Member
Between the two, oce...the headache you will run into with both will be on the service side...and extended warranty on the oce is like 15k...
 

DougWestwood

New Member
OCE

I have run several OCE table, and their sister machine the FUJI Acuity.
Both need to be run as often as possible, as they benefit from being used and keep the nozzles clear.

There is a new version of the ink, I believe it is the K1 inks? I have personally printed with this ink on coroplast, cut off a piece, put it in the freezer for three days. I took it out, folded it into quarters, and they ink remained uncracked, no flaking.

The UV lamps make a big difference, so make sure they are recent, and not fading.
The lamps should burn white, not yellow in any way.

White ink is a PITA, so avoid that.
Good Luck!
- Doug
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
I have run several OCE table, and their sister machine the FUJI Acuity.
Both need to be run as often as possible, as they benefit from being used and keep the nozzles clear.

There is a new version of the ink, I believe it is the K1 inks? I have personally printed with this ink on coroplast, cut off a piece, put it in the freezer for three days. I took it out, folded it into quarters, and they ink remained uncracked, no flaking.

The UV lamps make a big difference, so make sure they are recent, and not fading.

The lamps should burn white, not yellow in any way.

White ink is a PITA, so avoid that.
Good Luck!
- Doug



How can you look at a lamp to determine it's color ?? Do you use kryptonite ?? :cool:
 

DougWestwood

New Member
UV lamps

[/SIZE]How can you look at a lamp to determine it's color ?? Do you use kryptonite ?? :cool:

When the lamp is TURNED ON, it is easy to see a difference in color.
You can also see a difference in ink adhesion. If prints start to feel sticky or greasy, and you have to turn the lamps up to their highest intensity, then it's time to replace your bulbs. Both the OCE and FUJI machines have an "hour counter" which tells you how many hours the bulbs have burned. 600 hours is a pretty accurate range, though I have seen bulbs burn both longer and shorter than that.

Good Luck!
- Doug
Vancouver
 

Brian27

New Member
You can also see a difference in ink adhesion. If prints start to feel sticky or greasy,
Vancouver

That's kind of how these samples felt. I'm hoping they were just rushed. I've asked them to redo some samples to see if they can get a result that's more durable and won't scuff if you look at it the wrong way.

Thanks for all your input. Roland is going to be out here at the beginning of March to reclaim their flatbed so due to the time constraints I will likely just go with the Oce and hope for the best.
 
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