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One Way Vision (Laminated)

andrebeaz

New Member
Hello everyone, just a quick question, when you applying laminated one way vision to a flat glass, how do you guys do it to get rid off all the moisture at the back and don’t have that blurry/fog moisture trapped behind? Thank you all
 

andrebeaz

New Member
did you try to wet-apply the perf?
Yes, it has been always applied wet, because of the images and artwork used, we need to match every panel. So the perf it’s laminated to preserve the ink and also minimise damage (it’s installed in public spaces). But the problem we are facing it’s that when we finish the installation, people can see all the dampness from behind. I’ve heard that would be better to install without using water, but because we have to match the images it’s pretty much impossible to do it without water.
 

MarkSnelling

Mark Snelling - Hasco Graphics
I'm no installer....I sell the films...but I'm pretty sure you cannot wet apply laminated perf as you'll just trap all the moisture in the holes and never achieve clarity. We rarely suggest laminating perf unless it is a vehicle application but even then it is largely a waste.
 

DL Signs

Never go against the family
You should never apply laminated perf wet, and this is why. The fluid can't be pushed out, gets trapped in the holes, obstructs vision, causes premature failure, and there's no way to remove it. Once you laminate perf, it's dry install only.
 

andrebeaz

New Member
You should never apply laminated perf wet, and this is why. The fluid can't be pushed out, gets trapped in the holes, obstructs vision, causes premature failure, and there's no way to remove it. Once you laminate perf, it's dry install only.
Thanks! Any tips on how to align artwork in this case?
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
What is the size of the windows top to bottom and left to right ??
How high from street level are they ??
 

Boudica

I'm here for Educational Purposes
Not that it matters much now that we know you tried to wet-apply it, but what kind of lam did you use? if it wasn't optically clear laminate, then it's going to be blurry wet or dry.
 

JBurton

Signtologist
You could always laminate, then perforate after... Though weeding it could be fairly tedious...
Alternatively, liquid laminate after printing, then mask the perforated vinyl for installation.
 

andrebeaz

New Member
What is the size of the windows top to bottom and left to right ??
How high from street level are they ??
They have different sizes for different jobs, could be just a door size glass panel with a couple square panels on the size and could be a whole square panels staircase .
 

andrebeaz

New Member
Not that it matters much now that we know you tried to wet-apply it, but what kind of lam did you use? if it wasn't optically clear laminate, then it's going to be blurry wet or dry.
Sorry, I wouldn’t know the android to that. We have our own sign warehouse production and I’m just the installer. But I will try to figure out. It’s was blurry at the back 100% because of the soapy water.
 

DL Signs

Never go against the family
Thanks! Any tips on how to align artwork in this case?
Laying dry with or without lam isn't that hard if you do it right, found a vid of how I do it to help visualize.

Start it straight, work from top to bottom, pull the liner down as you go so you don't have all the adhesive exposed to grab where you don't want it to, before you want it to, makes it very manageable, and easy to lay dry.

If you're doing large prints that require seaming, do it the same as you would for any large graphic or wrap. Add bleed to panels when printing to overlap, after your first panel is laid, align and tape your next panel in place so the graphic lines up, hinge it a foot or two from the top to get started straight, and repeat working from top down. You can trim down the seams or use knifeless tape to make a butt joint if you don't want overlap to show, sometimes you don't need to, depends on how much overlap you have (if it's 1/8" or less it usually doesn't show much), and how you think it looks. If it's all separate panels of glass with separators or seams, just align panels as you go (like the vid), don't lay over seals that separate glass panels, it'll just come off.

Trim the perf 1/8" from the edges, best to go around edges and over seams with 1/4" seam seal tape (you can use 1/4" wide cut strips of lam if you need to). Perf always starts failing at edges and seams first, that'll help prevent it. Other reasons for the 1/8" trim in is you want the edge of the perf on glass, not on or too close to a rubber or silicone seal that it won't stick to, plus you never want to cut into a window seal.

Even with optically clear lam, they won't be as clear as unlaminated, but gets better after a few days in the sun. Liquid from wet applying will be there forever, and work it's way back under the adhesive causing failures.

We'll make a pro out of you. :thumb:

 

GraphixGirl79

New Member
Yes, it has been always applied wet, because of the images and artwork used, we need to match every panel. So the perf it’s laminated to preserve the ink and also minimise damage (it’s installed in public spaces). But the problem we are facing it’s that when we finish the installation, people can see all the dampness from behind. I’ve heard that would be better to install without using water, but because we have to match the images it’s pretty much impossible to do it without water.
have you tried using rapid tack? i'm not sure if would still leave the moisture after affect like water, but it might work for that application if you need to do it wet. I do know it does dry superfast, unlike water.
 
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