Thanks! Any tips on how to align artwork in this case?
Laying dry with or without lam isn't that hard if you do it right, found a vid of how I do it to help visualize.
Start it straight, work from top to bottom, pull the liner down as you go so you don't have all the adhesive exposed to grab where you don't want it to, before you want it to, makes it very manageable, and easy to lay dry.
If you're doing large prints that require seaming, do it the same as you would for any large graphic or wrap. Add bleed to panels when printing to overlap, after your first panel is laid, align and tape your next panel in place so the graphic lines up, hinge it a foot or two from the top to get started straight, and repeat working from top down. You can trim down the seams or use knifeless tape to make a butt joint if you don't want overlap to show, sometimes you don't need to, depends on how much overlap you have (if it's 1/8" or less it usually doesn't show much), and how you think it looks. If it's all separate panels of glass with separators or seams, just align panels as you go (like the vid), don't lay over seals that separate glass panels, it'll just come off.
Trim the perf 1/8" from the edges, best to go around edges and over seams with 1/4" seam seal tape (you can use 1/4" wide cut strips of lam if you need to). Perf always starts failing at edges and seams first, that'll help prevent it. Other reasons for the 1/8" trim in is you want the edge of the perf on glass, not on or too close to a rubber or silicone seal that it won't stick to, plus you never want to cut into a window seal.
Even with optically clear lam, they won't be as clear as unlaminated, but gets better after a few days in the sun. Liquid from wet applying will be there forever, and work it's way back under the adhesive causing failures.
We'll make a pro out of you.