Review ORAJET 3971RA, Review

[lushdub]

Hey guys,

So here at my shop, we've been using Orajet 3951 originally for the past couple of years. I was showcased the new model of 3971 which has a lot of features from paint protection film at the ISA show last year in Vegas. This year it was released and I purchased a roll for a client on their business wrap who wanted it due to the longevity and features they advertise for it. After installation, we've run into the issue that the film has trouble staying adhered in body line crevices and has lots of lifting. Another issue we came across when printing was that it wouldn't dry enough. It would constantly stick to the backing once the roll winded up, resulting in printing the panels again and again. So far this new material has been a fail in my opinion sadly with all the hype it had behind it the past year that it was being showcased to me. It ultimately costed us having to re-wrap this vehicle in Orajet 3951 which we normally use before.

Have any of you guys utilized it yet? If so, what's your opinion and use of it, maybe we didn't work it how it should.

 

[GraphixGirl79]

Hey guys,

So here at my shop, we've been using Orajet 3951 originally for the past couple of years. I was showcased the new model of 3971 which has a lot of features from paint protection film at the ISA show last year in Vegas. This year it was released and I purchased a roll for a client on their business wrap who wanted it due to the longevity and features they advertise for it. After installation, we've run into the issue that the film has trouble staying adhered in body line crevices and has lots of lifting. Another issue we came across when printing was that it wouldn't dry enough. It would constantly stick to the backing once the roll winded up, resulting in printing the panels again and again. So far this new material has been a fail in my opinion sadly with all the hype it had behind it the past year that it was being showcased to me. It ultimately costed us having to re-wrap this vehicle in Orajet 3951 which we normally use before.

Have any of you guys utilized it yet? If so, what's your opinion and use of it, maybe we didn't work it how it should.

Just a slightly off question, because your topic caught my eye. we recently wrapped a GMC express van and i was told that the 3951 RA (is that what you are using or the non RA?) is "the bee's knees" so to speak, but after having it installed it was lifting in certain areas, body creases and in the upper wheel well areas as well. I was told that this material is for wrapping and should be able to handle extreme curves (maybe not those words exactly). But i find that its not good at all, we had to fix many area issues with this media,it was even lifting in places without extreme stress/curves, making me not want to use it again for that purpose. Do you have any issues with this material at all? we use an Mimaki SS2 solvent ink printer and another wrap installer told us that sometimes with solvent printers, the ink bleeds into the adhesive itself, causing "stick" issues. They use a GF material for their wrapping and haven't had any issues, so make sme wonder about switching from Oracal completly. anywho, sorry i can't answer your question, but hopefully you can shed some light on mine.

 

[lushdub]

Just a slightly off question, because your topic caught my eye. we recently wrapped a GMC express van and i was told that the 3951 RA (is that what you are using or the non RA?) is "the bee's knees" so to speak, but after having it installed it was lifting in certain areas, body creases and in the upper wheel well areas as well. I was told that this material is for wrapping and should be able to handle extreme curves (maybe not those words exactly). But i find that its not good at all, we had to fix many area issues with this media,it was even lifting in places without extreme stress/curves, making me not want to use it again for that purpose. Do you have any issues with this material at all? we use an Mimaki SS2 solvent ink printer and another wrap installer told us that sometimes with solvent printers, the ink bleeds into the adhesive itself, causing "stick" issues. They use a GF material for their wrapping and haven't had any issues, so make sme wonder about switching from Oracal completly. anywho, sorry i can't answer your question, but hopefully you can shed some light on mine.

Yeah we use Orajet 3951 with the Oraguard 290 Laminate with no issues ever really. We have a handful of wraps on the road in AZ with no issues.

It's just that new model of 3971 which killed us on our profits on that project we did on that F250. It had horrible tack and was very bad at any slight small curve.

 

[signheremd]

Just a slightly off question, because your topic caught my eye. we recently wrapped a GMC express van and i was told that the 3951 RA (is that what you are using or the non RA?) is "the bee's knees" so to speak, but after having it installed it was lifting in certain areas, body creases and in the upper wheel well areas as well. I was told that this material is for wrapping and should be able to handle extreme curves (maybe not those words exactly). But i find that its not good at all, we had to fix many area issues with this media,it was even lifting in places without extreme stress/curves, making me not want to use it again for that purpose. Do you have any issues with this material at all? we use an Mimaki SS2 solvent ink printer and another wrap installer told us that sometimes with solvent printers, the ink bleeds into the adhesive itself, causing "stick" issues. They use a GF material for their wrapping and haven't had any issues, so make sme wonder about switching from Oracal completly. anywho, sorry i can't answer your question, but hopefully you can shed some light on mine.

First question is did you post form heat the vinyl immediately after installation? What you describe sounds like either it was not post form heated or that it was not heated hot enough. We have used Arlon SLX, Briteline WrapCast, 3m IJ180, GF 830 and Oracal 3951 all with great success. We have also done a number of color changes using Avery. Post proper form heating is the key to keeping the vinyl conformed to the new surface.

For those reading that don't know, when you heat cast vinyl it tries to return to its original shape - flat, and you can use this to get rid of wrinkles and to "un-stretch" the vinyl. This is because the vinyl has a molecular memory - an alignment of molecules it will default to. When you heat it a little more it will retain the new shape - post form heating. If you heat it even more it will scorch, bubble, and burn. If you have any, take some wrap vinyl, ball it up and then un-ball it, get it roughly flat and take a heat gun to it and watch as it relaxes back into shape, keep heating until you see the signs of scorching - in between relaxing and scorching was post form heating. If using a handle held torch instead of a heat gun, remember to keep the flame moving or it will scorch before you accomplish what you intend. Fun with heating vinyl includes saving stretched letters as well. Just remember to let the vinyl cool for a few seconds or you will stretch it again when you lift it.