Outdoor paint that vinyl will stick to? or just wrap it?

[TDFcustomSL]

Ive got a 8x12 pre existing aluminum sign that the customer wants me to re face. Ill have to scrap off the old cracked peeling vinyls from it and had thought about just wrapping the whole thing with the new design. Also been thinking about just painting it white and applying the printed logo and cut vinyls to it. My question is what kind of good quality outdoor paint wont cause me problems with the vinyl sticking to it? I know ive read stories of certain paints causing problems and this is one customer I really want to get my foot in the door with. Any tips, advice, or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[OldPaint]

this is how you can make a simple job....into the job from hell.
to do this right:
1.NEW ALUMINUM PANELS
2.remove panels, take to a body shop(they are METAL), LET THEM CLEAN, SAND, PRIME, REPAINT WITH AUTOMOTIVE ENAMEL!!!!!! then you can either letter with vinyl or wrap it. get money from client for the auto body work.
3.....DOING OTHER THEN EITHER OF THE ABOVE....
will come back to bite you in the arse))))))

 

[visual800]

OR.....

New aluminum, scuff and spray with latex semigloss and apply graphics to it. if you do not have a sprayer then take to body shop.

 

[Jillbeans]

Can you flip it over and use the back side?
I would charge $50 an hour to remove the old stuff.
I would NOT use latex paint. (always run into non-adhering issues when trying to apply vynull)
Try Ronan's Speednamel or sell him a big print.
Love....Jill

 

[signage]

By the time you calculate your time and materials it would be cheaper to use a new substrate!

 

[S'N'S]

I charge $100 an hour to apply or remove vinyl. Like Signage said it usually works out cheaper to use new substrate, if using new aluminium, use etch primer first, 2k paint, slap the vinyl on and it will last a long time. Cheaper version would be to etch prime, oil base paint and slap the vinyl on.

 

[visual800]

I charge $100 an hour to apply or remove vinyl. Like Signage said it usually works out cheaper to use new substrate, if using new aluminium, use etch primer first, 2k paint, slap the vinyl on and it will last a long time. Cheaper version would be to etch prime, oil base paint and slap the vinyl on.

no need for etching primer on white aluminum only mill finish...there is no need to buy mill finish

 

[visual800]

Can you flip it over and use the back side?
I would charge $50 an hour to remove the old stuff.
I would NOT use latex paint. (always run into non-adhering issues when trying to apply vynull)
Try Ronan's Speednamel or sell him a big print.
Love....Jill

Ill just say this has worked for me on a couple of occasions

 

[TDFcustomSL]

Appreciate the advice guys. Im actually a painter in a body shop full time so I had also thought about the pulling the panels down and painting them that way. The sign is for the dealership I work at and they want cheap on everything. However, the dealership is NOT paying for this...Sherwin Williams Automotive Finishes are. The sign has our old paint brand on it and Sherwin wants that changed so they are footing the bill. Ill take a closer look at the sign this week and try to figure out how its attachted to the brick. I guess I was hoping for a paint I could just roll on after scraping and cleaning it. But again thanks for the input!

 

[Mosh]

they want cheap on everything

Then new panels...unless they only pay you minimum wage.....

 

[Billct2]

Order aluminum or ACM and cover it. It will actually be less work and look better.

 

[Jillbeans]

Definitely go new then.

 

[SpeediGary]

Panels

Save yourself a GIANT headache and use new panels. You'll probably find that it will cost the customer less for new panels then it would for your labor to refurbish.

 

[k.a.s.]

New panels are best, but if you must re-do, you can roll on Ronan. I do it all the time, best sign paint made.


Kevin