P95 Acrylic laminating

[TammieH]

We are making an exterior sign in which we have to laminate 3 pieces of .25" thick acrylic, to make .75" thick

the 3 sheets are .25" x 15" x 96", we will attach 9.5" tall 3D letters, "the name of the building"

I am thinking that we could also through bolt behind the 3D letters as well, but I am still worried about the edges.

(yeah stupid, I know! I really need to step up and try to steer the owner in the right direction on jobs like this.)

Anyway the acrylic is P95 non-glare

The guy who we farm out too, did not want to laminate because he knew it would be difficult, so I am stuck with
laminating the 3 pieces of acrylic...he usually does all of our acrylic fabrication.

I was going to use (try anyway) optically clear VHB, but it does not look like it will adhere to the non-glare
side of the acrylic. So...now I am thinking Weld-On

Any ideas?

 

[Biker Scout]

P95 is only non-glare on one side.

So let me get this straight... the sign needs to be 3/4" thick, and you are trying to sandwich 3 pieces to get total thickness? Or is there a print mounted/printed to the center piece of acrylic? Because that really makes a difference in how to approach this.

 

[Biker Scout]

I wouldn't waste the P95 on the two bottom layers. But even still, I'd probably try to opt that the center piece be regular acrylic.

You are going to need a really flat smooth table. The ability to shim the edges of the acrylic (with razor blades works pretty good) Secondly, you'll need to put weights or have the ability to place even pressure across the entire sign. I'd only to two layers at a time too. I'd suggest Weld-On #4 because it's a little slower curing. But still you are going to have to move fast and strategically place the weld-on on the surface so you don't end up with trapped air pockets. #16 is syrupy and is also a good choice, but it will take speed and a good bit of planning.

And another thing, you might want to consider making the sign oversized, so that way you clean up the edges on the table saw, or router. Because the chances are that you will not get weld-on all the way to the edge perfectly all the way around unless you know exactly what you are doing. And you can see the air pockets/gaps. They kind of stick out pretty badly.

 

[TammieH]

Yes, what's done is done, we have the 3 pieces of acrylic, that needs to be laminated, no prints involved in this job.

If it was up to me it would have been made out of 1" thick glass, but this job was planned out from my boss and her
customer...its like how difficult can we make it for Tammie.

 

[TonyC]

Why wouldn't.......

I have never done this, BUT could you laminate the pieces together with double sided laminate? The type of clear lam used for mounting prints to glass on the inside facing out is what I am thinking.

 

[Biker Scout]

If this is going outside don't use film. Besides, you'd need to use optically clear double sided mounting adhesive. Have you seen how much that stuff costs compared to a can of Weld-On?

 

[Jester1167]

I used to have a boss who tried to do things like this and it used to frustrate me to no end. We had a saying for this "tripping over a dollars to pick up a dime"

I haven't tried what you are attempting but I have edge glued plex to make displays. First I think it's a losing battle, but I'll offer some of my experiences.

The liquid Weldon is more of a solvent than a glue. When you flood the surface or lay the other piece on top some of it may leak out the edges and get between the table and your P95. It will discolor or change the texture of the surface. When you try to square up the sheets you will get it on your fingers. Either cut the sheets oversized and trim it later or be careful what you touch with Weldon on your fingers. It should dry fairly quickly on your fingers.

If you end up with a bubble in the middle your $cr3wed. If the bubbles are open to the edges, the Weldon will wick in and fill the void. When trying to fill a bubble on the edge, it works better if you inject the Weldon next to an edge of the bubble. If you try and inject it in the center of the bubble you are more likely to trap a bubble.

If you are blessed and it turns out well, let it set longer than you think necessary just to be safe. Edges dry quickly ,but I imagine the center will take a little while to fully cure, I would hate to see you mess it up.

Good luck.

 

[Biker Scout]

I'm tellin' ya... would be easier to have a piece of 3/4" already. The P95 non-glare thing really is only good for mounting photos that will be seen inside and under certain lighting conditions. It's an expensive waste.

My buddy across the way from my workshop owns an acrylic manufacturing company. I've spent literally hundreds of hours over there helping out, and large sheet bonding is the one thing he tries to avoid. Bubbles not only look bad, they are an area of weakness.

 

[TammieH]

Biker Scout, yes I know, like I said my boss/owner already purchased the 3 pieces of P95, I would have gone with .75" thick tempered glass
but thats besides the point

Its up to me to find away to make 3 pieces, one

I was going to use optically clear VHB, but it does not look like it will adhere to the non-glare side,

Does anyone know if we clamp the 3 pieces together with the VHB, that they will stick?

 

[Biker Scout]

Oh, it will stick... but for how long is the question.

Weld-On will make a permanent bond, which makes the pieces fuse together as one.

 

[TammieH]

Thank you Biker and Jester, I am getting a couple of scraps to do a couple of tests