Paint acrylic and aluminum letters: where to start?

[bigben]

We currently outsource all our dimensional job to Gemini and a local guy. We are bidding on a job that would justify the purchase of a CNC machine. I've done my homework and know what I will buy. But now I need to figure out the paint part. I've considered to subcontract that part, but the signshop in my area are not interested to just paint my jobs. So if I want to do it myself, what would I need and/or where I should start looking? With some research here I came across the name of Matthews paint. Is it the go to brand for my type of job? I'm not even sure what kind of questions I should ask.

Thanks for your help.

 

[johnnysigns]

We rattle can a lot of letters off our CNC or laser. There's a lot of spray paint cans available locally that are more geared towards graffiti paint, but from what we've seen their UV resistance outdoors has been excellent to combat fading. Most of the brands I've seen or used are also satin finish right out of the can which is nice for 99% of our needs.

 

[rjssigns]

When I used to paint sign stuff I used base/clear or catalyzed acrylic enamel for automotive use. Other jobs got Rustoleum.
Last job I did for a museum was done just like a car. 2K high build, sealer, base/clear then cut and buff.
As always YMMV

 

[Texas_Signmaker]

Building out a paint booth is an endeavor. I've rattle caned letters several times with good results.

 

[Notarealsignguy]

You can get a real good finish with spray paint, the problem is they are alkyd enamels. which don't weather well. I see backlit signs all over that look like crap after a year BUT I don't know if it even matters. Nobody seems to care. The home depot monument sign by my house has been burnt out for about 2 years as well as all of the smaller vendors on the same sign. If people don't care enough to fix burnt out bulbs/ballasts then I don't think using high dollar paint is even worth the added expense. The walgreens sign down the road is light pink, almost all white.

 

[bigben]

I will sure check "regular" paint shop. But I would like to what it would take to do it myself. 80% of the stuff that will be painted will be for indoors (mostly office lobby). So it need to look right at close range. Also, most of my customers want a mat finish. I like the rattle can idea, but what if I need to get a pantone match?

 

[Texas_Signmaker]

Take two spray cans to make the desired color and spray them at the same time..crossing their streams

 

[Notarealsignguy]

I will sure check "regular" paint shop. But I would like to what it would take to do it myself. 80% of the stuff that will be painted will be for indoors (mostly office lobby). So it need to look right at close range. Also, most of my customers want a mat finish. I like the rattle can idea, but what if I need to get a pantone match?

Matthews in a preval sprayer

 

[Boudica]

Take two spray cans to make the desired color and spray them at the same time..crossing their streams

Egon said to never cross the streams...

 

[Texas_Signmaker]

Egon said to never cross the streams...

 

[Boudica]

Yah, well he said to never do it. Until Ray thought up Stay Puff. That was an exception.

 

[visual800]

I spray latex, last long and is flexible. Always spray wiyj 2 part epoxy primers. I do NOT rattle can anything just my personal preference.
I have used matthews and its good stuff....automotive bc/cc are too damn expensive now to even consider

 

[White Haus]

I will sure check "regular" paint shop. But I would like to what it would take to do it myself. 80% of the stuff that will be painted will be for indoors (mostly office lobby). So it need to look right at close range. Also, most of my customers want a mat finish. I like the rattle can idea, but what if I need to get a pantone match?

Ben I think what you're looking for/referring to is the Matthews Paint System. Here is an old thread I found about it: https://www.signs101.com/threads/matthews-paint-systems.59940/

I know ND Graphics used to be a dealer/distributor for them but not sure if they are anymore.

Good luck with your search! I've often wanted to get into painting our own parts but just don't have the space for any sort of paint booth.

 

[Billct2]

"but what if I need to get a pantone match?"
I've used this place with great results. https://www.myperfectcolor.com/
One job was a bunch of acrylic letters with about 5 or 6 PMS matches, came out great and lasted really well.

 

[Notarealsignguy]

That thing is cheap... do you actually use one? Looks great for touch up and what smaller projects.

They have been around forever. I use a small gun for touchup but customers want touch up paint and this is what I tell them to use if a brush wont work.

 

[CanuckSigns]

My local Benjamin Moore store offers custom paint matches in rattle cans, they can do both latex or oil based paints, it's around $20/can if I remember correctly, I've used it a few times and it works well.

Alternitivly, for some interior jobs, I've used printed vinyl on the face of the letters, and the closest krylon colour on the returns, never had anyone complain.

Or, you can paint the reverse side of clear acrylic, if you want matte, use p95 acrylic, the finish always looks perfect from the front, even using a brush and latex paints.

 

[signbrad]

Matthews is geared to serve the sign industry. It is acrylic polyurethane, car paint. It requires a catalyst just like car paint. The mixing systems allow you to match practically any color from almost any manufacturer, including Pantone. The "Nuance" line is 60% gloss, the ADA standard. There are many clears for adjusting gloss, and multiple primers for specific substrates as well. Numerous reducers help with weather changes. An accelerator allows next day vinyl application with no bubbling.
They also have a free formula matching service if you send them a sample color.

If your volume is not huge, they have a mixing station that uses quart cans instead of gallons.

Your biggest expense will be a paint booth unless you rig up something homemade.
A nice gun is nice, but I've used Harbor Freight, too.

If you go to Matthews free 2-day school, you get a manual (which we use constantly).

Brad in Kansas City

 

[kcollinsdesign]

Acrylic polyurethane (Matthews is very good) is the way to go. You will need a proper spray booth and air supply. It is very likely your municipal code will have a lot to say about installing a paint booth and exhausting the fumes. It won't be cheap, but if you are doing a lot of painting it might pay off.

Acrylic polyurethane uses a catalyst to cure, and breathing it in is highly toxic as the particles can harden in your lungs. The same safety protocols (air supply, properly fitted respirator, etc.) should be used as a professional body shop.

 

[MikePro]

+1 Mathews Acrylic Polyurethane. They also have an EZSpray system that allows you to make your own spraybombs, but I'd imagine it would be even more expensive to paint this way exclusively as it turns $10 paint into a $25 can.