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Paint Recommendation for Metal Gas Station Canopy

SignEx

New Member
We have a job coming up to paint canopy of gas station, Its approx 5ft wide x 50 ft long , 3 sides, Its originally a light tan color, Original paint seems to be in good condition just faded and dull,
Owner wants it painted Black with white text applied, letters will be approx 30 inches tall ,

Not sure how to approach this, I've painted letters before but not background and letters,

Would you need to power wash, prime, surface before painting black background?
Would it be best to roll it on, spray it on?
Also any particular paint recommendations?

any advice would be appreciated,

thanks mark
 

rossmosh

New Member
My general opinion is to sub the work out to a painter. Then you come back and do the sign work.

Painting, in theory, is pretty simple. Sand. Clean. Prime. Dry. Paint. Dry. Paint. Done. Like any trade, there are key tricks to getting the job done well and fast that you won't know unless you do it enough.

The type of paint is really up to you, but I'd probably go with 100% acrylic DTM paint. If you use DTM paint, you might be able to skip the priming process. Calling up a good Sherwin Williams or someone that sells PPG paints should answer that sort of question for you.

As for how you should apply it, that's 100% up to you. Spraying is faster and gives the best finish but requires more prep work as you have to mask for overspray. Plus if you don't have a spray setup, rollers are obviously much cheaper.
 

signbrad

New Member
I would power wash the surface before doing anything.

If the old paint is still holding up, it can serve as a base coat. If you are going to hand letter it, coat it out white first. Then use pounce patterns and cut in the black. It's much easier than trying paint white letters over a black background. You avoid double-coating the white letters this way.
I would use Ronan Fast Dry Background enamel, assuming it's still manufactured. By the time you finish rolling, it may be dry enough to start cutting in the black at the place where you started. I would use black lettering enamel.
The only problem with Ronan Fast Dry is if you wait too long. It gets too hard. So if you don't cut in the black the same day, do it the next.

I'm sure many would coat out black and lay white vinyl, which works fine, too.

One more method would be to use liquid maskant, like Spraylat. Coat out the panels first with one color (probably the white). When dry, roll on the mask with a thick nap roller. Do one side of the canopy, then, when it's dry to the touch, roll a second coat on the same side. You want the mask two coats thick and you don't want to wait till the next day to apply the second coat. After you've finished masking all sides, use a pounce pattern and cut and peel the mask for the second color.
The Spraylat mask will have a heavy orange peel texture when you roll it on, but that doesn't matter. It cuts beautifully with hardly any pressure. You will use at least a five gallon bucket of Spraylat for this job.
This method lends itself to spray or roller for the color coats. If I were going to use automotive paints or polyurethane paints for a long lasting job, I would probably also go the extra step of scuffing the surface before laying the first color. A maroon Scotch Brite pad on a DA sander works well. Then tack off and apply the first color.

If you've never used Spraylat masking before, it's important that there not be any thin areas—it may not come off easily otherwise. At the perimeter of the area to be masked, lay a tape border, either 2-inch masking or 2-inch low tack (whatever sticks but doesn't pull the base color off). Then roll the mask right up onto the taped border, but not beyond. This makes it easy to remove the mask when the paint is dry.
If you pull up a wrong piece of mask accidentally while you're cutting the letters, it won't stick back down. Any wrong cuts in the mask need to be patched with a piece of masking tape.

I have lettered dozens of aluminum-skinned semi trailers this way with automotive enamels.

FYI: it takes 7 gallons of paint to letter an old style Mayflower trailer.

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Brad in Kansas City
 

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visual800

Active Member
Id pass on this personally BUT if you must....
I would have someone recover with new aluminum.

something that large is going to be a PITA to do and by the time you do all this cleaning, primimg, painting topcoat you would better better off recovering. there is a chance of streaking the paint on something this large also.

removing it and spraying it would be better than doing on site, that might a better possibility
 

rjssigns

Active Member
If you do the paint yourself be careful. You will be responsible for any drops/overspray that gets on surrounding vehicles/structures. And believe me the folks parking in that area will notice what you're doing.
 

signbrad

New Member
You will be responsible for any drops/overspray

This is a good point.

I once coated out a small bulletin (10x20) at the edge of a used car lot. The dealer moved all the cars except a black one at the far edge. It wouldn't start. It was probably 200 feet away. We thought we were safe. When I was finished the car was covered with tiny white drops that had been carried by the breeze. And I was rolling, not spraying.
That cost me 100 dollars in 1979 money.

I've seen overspray from an airless travel even further.
 

OldPaint

New Member
iam with signbrad........IF YOUR GOING TO PAINT THE LETTERING. also i dont think your the guy to do the overall painting. SUB IT or let the owner pay a painting contractor...i would also make sure they use a good high gloss paint!!!!
getting it painted ALL WHITE....... is the way to go here. paining white letters over black background would take 2 full coats for sure. it you paint the background around the letters in black....1 coat will be it.
if your gona hang vinyl on it......still paint black in high gloss. this was white and i put vinyl letters on it then panted the black...
 

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SignEx

New Member
Thanks for all input, My thought is to sub out or just let the owner handle the initial painting, then work on letters,think on this its better to say no to the big paint part,,I really appreciate the time and knowledge everyone has taken to provide the input, I don't mind saying I don't know everything and it helps to avoid making mistakes and getting into big messes with time and dollars lost.

Again thanks for all input,

mark
 

Billct2

Active Member
I also would price refacing it with aluminum. Prefinished black panels with cast vinyl applied in the shop would last a long time.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Thanks for all input, My thought is to sub out or just let the owner handle the initial painting, then work on letters,think on this its better to say no to the big paint part,,I really appreciate the time and knowledge everyone has taken to provide the input, I don't mind saying I don't know everything and it helps to avoid making mistakes and getting into big messes with time and dollars lost.

Again thanks for all input,

mark



Good decision.

Now........​

Think hard about using vinyl overtop of a painted black surface. Regardless if it's new substrates or just re-painted, black will absorb all the heat the sun can throw at it. It will practically boil your vinyl off of it, according to which direction your sign is facing. Paint, on the other hand will weather forever.
 

ddarlak

Go Bills!
power wash, paint with roller on broom handle using black Ronan background enamel, come back a week later and stick vinyl, (and no gino, it won't "boil" off), then collect very large check and move onto next job....
 
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