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Painting Plastic Post Covers?

Gino

Premium Subscriber
I've never painted them, but I think if you scare them up with maybe 220 and spray them with some decent enamel, you'd be good for maybe two years or so.

You need to get it very abrasive so it will take the paint. Rattle cans won't last long, not even the Krylon meant for plastics. You need a good grade of paint that will last normally outside.... not lawn furniture paint. Remember, this is a professional sign project and people don't really like a backyard approach to painting the posts.

When someone wants custom painted posts, we generally use cedar posts. Prime them and then give them two coats of top coat. Latex primer and oil-based top coat.
 

wildside

New Member
yeah, what gino said :goodpost:

if they are white we use the post sleeves, if they want any other color, they get wood with the paint applied direct, no sleeves
 

Jillbeans

New Member
I used Krylon Fusion as a base coat (because their colors are usually poopy looking) then regular (good) spray paint.
Posts are still the same as 4 years ago, on PVC pipe.
Love.....Jill
 

Pat Whatley

New Member
I've painted two sets so my experience is a little limited but....
2007 - Painted a set Royal Blue by misting them with Krylon Fusion (and I do mean misting) then rolling on a couple of layers of Rustoleum Royal Blue right out of the can. Other than the bottom 4" where they keep hitting them with the weed eater they look like new.

2008 - Painted a set black with Rustoleum Industrial Enamel using the same misting technique as above. Drive past them twice a day...still look good.

Maybe I'm living a charmed life or something.
 

Billct2

Active Member
Thanks
The client built a stone wall with two PT posts already in place, I need a nice black paint finish not stain. So I'm going to suggest the PVC post covers or if they want something better, .040 wrap(though there will be a seam it's a single face sign so I can put the seam to the back)
 

GB2

Old Member
I think the Krylon Fusion paint works extremely well and holds up for many years on plastic products of all types. I would suggest following the directions very carefully however, "second coat within 24 hours or else wait 7 days". You can also have compatibility issues with other types of paints so I'm not fond of the mixing that has been suggested above. Brian's idea of automotive and flex additive is good, if you wish to use those types of paints. Also, today's latex paints work very well for any surface, so a good quality latex primer and latex finish will work very successfully.

Any of those would provide a fine, professional job, despite some people's erroneous, backyard signmaking opinions.
 

petrosgraphics

New Member
we have painted quite a few... scuff them up real good, wipe down with lac. thinner...

we have used a roller with oil base paint.... 2 years out on some, still looking good..

for your own piece of mind, get a small section and paint it... a few days later

give the scratch test to see how well the paint grabbed the pvc....
 

klemgraphics

New Member
From my body shop background I would recommend sanding thoroughly with 320, wiping down with a water based surface cleaner(solvent based will also bring the mold release to the top). Then spray one coat of plastic adhesion promoter(available in a rattle can if so desired). Let promoter dry then top coat with an automotive single stage urethane with a flex additive. Won't be the cheapest route but it will last for many years.

What do you think makes the Kyrlon Fusion stick? My bet is a built in promoter.
 

Si Allen

New Member
A good quality acrylic latex will stick to it like baby poop on a blanket!

Two coats and it will outlast the sign!
 
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