I just got an offer to put a bid on a Magnum coffee store front windows. This will be my first beginning to end store front perforated job. (I've installed other peoples graphics on windows before) Anyway, each window is 76 inches long by 70 inches tall. I can't find anything bigger than a 54 inch roll. Do I overlap the graphics like I would a vehicle if the panel is too big or do I just but it up again the next piece. There are a total of 55 windows. So this is a huge project. Also the only thing that is in between one window to the next is a piece of rubber about 1/2 inch wide. Should I cut just shy of this or should I go past it to the next window not running my seem there. Also I have no idea what I would charge for this project. I tried $15 a square foot and it came out to about $30,000. Seems a little high for some graphics that will fade in a few years. Of course they are a big company and can probably afford it. Which brings me to another concern. In my mind I don't think it is worth the money and I want to talk them out of it. But I would really like the challenge. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Perf vinyl on huge windows, overlap ?
- Thread starter markoor
- Start date
If you can get them to pay $30K for window perf, I say go for it! On the other hand, a more competitive rate might be closer to half that (or even a third of it.)
I have no idea what your daily rate is, but figure how many windows you could do in a day, and then figure how many days it will take, and then multiply that times your daily rate. I would maybe double the cost of the materials, and add it to your install charge. I would also maybe add another 15-25% on top, just because. I bet you won't be anywhere near 30K.
I have no idea what your daily rate is, but figure how many windows you could do in a day, and then figure how many days it will take, and then multiply that times your daily rate. I would maybe double the cost of the materials, and add it to your install charge. I would also maybe add another 15-25% on top, just because. I bet you won't be anywhere near 30K.
Kentucky Wraps
Kentucky Wraps
$15 a sft. is insanely high for that scale job.
excellent. Thanks for the advice. I thought it was a bit steep too. About the graphics. Do I overlap since they don't make perf vinyl that big or do I butt it up against each other? Do I do one window at a time or should I stretch it across a few windows. The only transition between windows is a piece of rubber that is almost flush with the windows. No frame or anything. Do I got over top. I know better than to end a piece on or near the rubber cuz it will eventually curl.
HIGHSPEEDGRAPHIX
Rog
I would try to do it across two or three panes of glass depending on the widths. No do not go over the rubber gasket or silicon or trim it out after you apply if you go over them. Make sure your edges are a 32nd of an inch off the bevel edge as well (if you have them). As far as the seem goes, I would print them with a one inch overlap and then line up as you would a vinyl panel. when your finished i would cut a butt seem with a straight edge and remove the one half your not keeping and you will have a perfect seem.
excellent. So I shouldn't worry about the graphics separating at the edge that is butted up? Or will the gap be so small I shouldn't worry? Thanks for all your help. I can already see where calculating square footage like a small graphic doesn't work in big graphics like this.
HIGHSPEEDGRAPHIX
Rog
The cut will be the seem so there wont be any gap. Just make sure you let your prints cure and curling wont be an issue.
MikePro
New Member
highly recommended, that any trimmed edges of perf be trimmed-back 1/4" and overlapped/sealed with 1/2" clear lamination tape.
tile lines, as well. don't overlap perf, trim flush and overlay the seam with clear lamination tape.
this extends the life of perforated vinyl a TON. I've got stuff out there that is 7+ years old and hasn't curled yet.
tile lines, as well. don't overlap perf, trim flush and overlay the seam with clear lamination tape.
this extends the life of perforated vinyl a TON. I've got stuff out there that is 7+ years old and hasn't curled yet.
This sounds like great advice. I still see a lot of overlaping seams around town though. I always wondered about it since with the perf+lam being uneven adhesion surface - you're not getting a "sealed" edge no matter how good you squeegee it.
Any thoughts about using the edge sealer goop? Probably harder to use than the tape, but just wondering if anybody uses it?
MikePro
New Member
forgot to mention, that advice was for film-laminated perforated vinyl.
edge-sealer won't really help perforated vinyl. the clear vinyl strips protects the trimmed perforated's "fingers" from being attacked by the elements over time, simply edge-sealing the exposed adhesive won't really accomplish this and, technically, wouldn't you also have to edge-seal every perforation?
regardless, most people don't bother to do it since the job is completed & paid-for by the time perf. starts to fail.
personally, for storefront windows, I'd rather liquid laminate BUT I don't have a liquid laminator so I just sheet lam & strip-seal everything that is perforated.
HulkSmash
New Member
unfortunately there are large companies who bid out perf at $2.00 a square all day. + install. We do large perf installs all the time and yes you cannot avoid overlap unfortunately.
We did a huge job with perforated vinyl, really huge.
The edges started peeling off already. We don't have any seams and the perf. vinyl isn't laminated but would sealing the edges all around with lamination film prevent this ?
From top of my head this seems like a fantastic idea, not sure if I' missing something.
The edges started peeling off already. We don't have any seams and the perf. vinyl isn't laminated but would sealing the edges all around with lamination film prevent this ?
From top of my head this seems like a fantastic idea, not sure if I' missing something.
CSOCSO
I don't hate paint, I just overlay it.
Next time use primer. We only use primer all around the edges. No clear tape. Clear tape is good for nothing! Moist and water will go behind it will get dirty back there and it curls back. Also if the adhesive side is already lost its stickiness try to put banner hem tape around the edges. You might have to pull back the material a good inch all around but it works like a charm. Actually banner ham tape is SUPER sticky. You will hate it once you have to remove it but it should hold down any material. Banner hem tape is the clear tape which is like a super thin double sided tape.
CSOCSO
I don't hate paint, I just overlay it.
We always overlaminate our perf. And learned one thing super quick. Primer 94 is a MUST! Especially on the curvy back windows.
Primer 94 on Perf?
Yeah. This is a new one for me too. Just doesn't make sense in my head but hey thats what i come here for, new tricks to get the job done right? But I thought there were some issues with using Primer 94 on non 3M Media's? Doesn't the stuff damage some vinyl?
Yeah. This is a new one for me too. Just doesn't make sense in my head but hey thats what i come here for, new tricks to get the job done right? But I thought there were some issues with using Primer 94 on non 3M Media's? Doesn't the stuff damage some vinyl?