• I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...

Please help with backlit sign materials!

Signmaker1234

New Member
Hi everyone and thanks in advance for any help! I have never done any work with backlit/electric signs before, but now have an opportunity, just need some help! The current sign (looks older) has "for lease" on it, so the owner would like to keep this for future use, so I need to know how to remove this, looks like screws (very rusty screws I must say) on the side of the metal frame/box, if these are taken off will the side/frame be able to be removed? Will the sign face just slide out? What type of material are these sign faces made from? Looks just like cut vinyl lettering on the face, if so what type of vinyl is used for this? I don't do any printing, just cut vinyl for now, but never had a chance to work with a sign like this before, so any help would be appreciated, thanks! I'm assuming these are called backlit signs?
 

Signmaker1234

New Member
Pic

I hope this works?
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    30.9 KB · Views: 78

player

New Member
Hi everyone and thanks in advance for any help! I have never done any work with backlit/electric signs before, but now have an opportunity, just need some help! The current sign (looks older) has "for lease" on it, so the owner would like to keep this for future use, so I need to know how to remove this, looks like screws (very rusty screws I must say) on the side of the metal frame/box, if these are taken off will the side/frame be able to be removed? Will the sign face just slide out? What type of material are these sign faces made from? Looks just like cut vinyl lettering on the face, if so what type of vinyl is used for this? I don't do any printing, just cut vinyl for now, but never had a chance to work with a sign like this before, so any help would be appreciated, thanks! I'm assuming these are called backlit signs?

There are different types of frames that hold sign faces into sign boxes. This looks like simple folded metal or angle keeping the plastic face against the box or "can".

I bet you could go on the roof and pull (slide) the sign face straight up and out of the side frames. Otherwise either post better pics or figure it out on the fly.

Faces are made of translucent white Plexiglas (acrylic) or Lexan (polycarbonate) or variants/blends of the two. Polycarbonate is much more impact resistant than acrylic, but may have other less desirable properties. The faces are usually 3/16" thick. Sometimes 1/4". It comes in roll stock and sheets.

The vinyl used should be 2ml cast translucent for proper life and illumination. Including black. There are other vinyls as well, and even some cheap calendered vinyls that will light up, but not last as long. They may break down early enough for a warranty re-due...

Enough?
 
Last edited:

John Butto

New Member
Enough?

There are different types of frames that hold sign faces into sign boxes. This looks like simple folded metal or angle keeping the plastic face against the box or "can".

I bet you could go on the roof and pull (slide) the sign face straight up and out of the side frames. Otherwise either post better pics or figure it out on the fly.

Faces are made of translucent white Plexiglas (acrylic) or Lexan (polycarbonate) or variants/blends of the two. Polycarbonate is much more impact resistant than acrylic, but may have other less desirable properties. The faces are usually 3/16" thick. Sometimes 1/4". It comes in roll stock and sheets.

The vinyl used should be 2ml cast translucent for proper life and illumination. Including black. There are other vinyls as well, and even some cheap calendered vinyls that will light up, but not last as long. They may break down early enough for a warranty re-due...

Enough?
You left out one of his concerns about the rusty screws, and what should he take them out with. Also when he is able to slide the faces out, that he has to take a measurement of the existing so as to get new a one cut. What kind of tool to cut face if he cannot get a supplier to do that for him. Did he get a deposit before starting the work, does the city require a permit. Does he apply the vinyl wet or dry, what pressure on his plotter to cut with, what kind of transfer paper works the best. Ladder jakes, bucket truck, does he rent a lift. Does his business card look good enough, should I have my phone number on my truck, should I have my logo on an angle or towards the back. What kind of computer should he get, a Mac or a Windows. When he gets through with this job, what printer, solvent or latex, and what RIP do I get.
 
Last edited:

player

New Member
You left out one of his concerns about the rusty screws, and what should he take them out with. Also when he is able to slide the faces out, that he has to take a measurement of the existing so as to get new a one cut. What kind of tool to cut face if he cannot get a supplier to do that for him. Did he get a deposit before starting the work, does the city require a permit. Does he apply the vinyl wet or dry, what pressure on his plotter to cut with, what kind of transfer paper works the best. Ladder jakes, bucket truck, does he rent a lift. Does his business card look good enough, should I have my phone number on my truck, should I have my logo on an angle or towards the back. What kind of computer should he get, a Mac or a Windows. When he gets through with this job, what printer, solvent or latex, and what RIP do I get.

The real question is: Does artwork designed in Corel look better or worse than art designed in illustrator?
 

John Butto

New Member
answer...

The real question is: Does artwork designed in Corel look better or worse than art designed in illustrator?
Good artwork looks good in Corel and Illustrator. Bad artwork looks bad in Illustrator and Corel.
Hope that clears it up for you and you can let it rest and get on with more important things like how to remove rusty screws.
 

Marlene

New Member
really hate to say this but it sounds like this is too much for you to handle. first off, have you done an actual in the air survey of this or just an on the ground look at it? usually you will want to know the cut size of the face. if you do vinyl, you should know what vinyl to use as it is on your vinyl color charts and you must have seen it.
 

player

New Member
Good artwork looks good in Corel and Illustrator. Bad artwork looks bad in Illustrator and Corel.
Hope that clears it up for you and you can let it rest and get on with more important things like how to remove rusty screws.

Sure, but does it look badder in Corel?
 

Chriswagner92

New Member
When you figure out vinyl for the new face dont forget to measure the visual opening and leave yourself enough room as to not cover it up with the retainer.
 

Moze

Active Member
I think you'd be able to easily slide the face in and out on the ends from the roof. The trickiest part would be removing the bottom screws on the retainer.

I'm guessing a 36"h awning and a 48" x 60" cabinet. 48" is further than I would want to lean over a roof.

The trickiest part would be putting the bottom screws back in. :)
 
Top