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Plywood Sign Advice

basicmetal

New Member
It seems like a pretty easy up-sell to Alumalite if you nicely point out to the client that the plywood signs they had previously failed after a couple years. Let them know that you can make the sign however they want to, but unless they are looking forward to going down the same road in another couple years, Alumalite is right way to do it... for the additional material costs of course.
 

signpro

Manager
if you have to finish off the edges of the MDO yourself... you're not really saving much. as the alumacore needs no finishing realy
 

Deaton Design

New Member
Im probably a dinosaur, but I wont use anything but MDO. Basically, every sign that goes out of my shop is MDO if its going to be outside, unless of course its dimensional, then its hdu. I think in all the years Ive been doing signs, I used alumacore twice, but thats not to say its not good material, it is, but not for my use. I do alot of two sided signs between posts, and to me, the alumacore is not stable enough for that due to the thickness. I guess I just like the feel of wood. I use latex based paints for all the backgrounds and vinyl lettering, which sticks to it very well. I have a friend who has a cnc router, and he keeps the mdo in stock. All I have to do is send him a dxf file, and go pick it up. Sand the edges, put a little glue on them and have at it. I guess its just whatever you get used to.:)
 
S

scarface

Guest
if your doin PLYWOOD SIGNS, you doin CHEAP .............
if you are real sign shop
THEN YOU WOULD DO MDO......and make the CLIENT PAY FOR THE MATERIAL!!!!

But it's not the clients fault that you have to buy a whole 4x8' sheet of MDO lol :clapping:

I recently did a MDO sign and used RTG MDO and sealed the edges up, primed and painted them. Of course this only comes RTG in white but you can paint it any color you need with 1 shot or Ronan paint from what i'm told :thumb:
 

OldPaint

New Member
But it's not the clients fault that you have to buy a whole 4x8' sheet of MDO lol
IF YOU ARE A SIGN SHOP..........and a real sign person...........YOU WOULD HAVE SOME MDO IN STOCK. i do, because ive sold 3'x4', 4' x4's in 1/2 " and 3/4" THICK...........
having to buy a 4x8 sheet of MDO is no different the buying a 24" x 300' of black vinyl!!!!!!!!!
i keep in stock 4x8, a sheet of 1/2" MDO, a sheet of red, white PVC, a sheet of white, red, yellow CORO ad a sheet same as DIBOND.........along with the 5-6 colors of 24" vinyl and transfer tape.......oh and i forgot a roll 24" x 35 ft magnatic..............THESE MAKE ME MONEY....it called C.O.D.B...............
SIGN SUPPLY now PROVEER, sells 4x8 sheets of PREPAINTED MDO, in red, white, yellow, green, blue & black.
 

Randy S

New Member
Use Omega board/ Luster Board, its got an aluminum face both 1 sided and two, seal the edges with get edge cap, with it and put a bead of silicone in the edge cap before putting on
 

Larry L

New Member
For big low cost temp signs, use corroplast and 7/16 OSB.
I do a lot of site signs with that combo. Just liquid nail the boards together. OSB $6 to $15 depending upon hurricanes. and corro $8 - $10. $2 glue
 

Larry L

New Member
Alumilite is too flimsy and dent prone to just stick between to poles. I always end up framing it in with edge seal if it touches treated wood. Is there a better way?

note: corrosion from copper sulfate treated wood
 

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Gino

Premium Subscriber
I think there's a bunch of newbies looking up or searching old stuff and they add to it as they go along. In fact, it saves time doing it this way. We don't have to write our own replies again and again and again and again and again and again...................


What the heck, we're always telling them to use the 'search feature' and they're finally doing it........ :thumb:
 

Almonte

New Member
Would anyone mind describing your way of framing a 4x8 MDO panel, to be installed on (2) 4"x4" posts positioned behind the panel? Do you use 2"x4"s or 2"x2"s for the framing? Do you use plywood triangles on the corners?

Do smaller signs, such as 3x4s and 4x4s, need to be framed?

Thanks
 

StarSign

New Member
The customer requested plywood because they don't know what they really want, set 'em straight and do a kick butt job!
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Would anyone mind describing your way of framing a 4x8 MDO panel, to be installed on (2) 4"x4" posts positioned behind the panel? Do you use 2"x4"s or 2"x2"s for the framing? Do you use plywood triangles on the corners?

Do smaller signs, such as 3x4s and 4x4s, need to be framed?

Thanks


Not quite sure what you mean, but we rarely ever frame any MDO signs of any size. If you are making a nice permanent sign, that's a different story, but then our choice of wood might be different or the post mounting might vary, but regular square or rectangular signs = no framework.
 

Almonte

New Member
Not quite sure what you mean, but we rarely ever frame any MDO signs of any size. If you are making a nice permanent sign, that's a different story, but then our choice of wood might be different or the post mounting might vary, but regular square or rectangular signs = no framework.

The signs I am quoting aren't permanent, but may be on-site for a year or more, depending on when the building is leased. Without framing, does the sign panel bend or warp?
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
If you use 1/2" it might warp a little bit. Not usually, unless you install it wrong. If you're worried about that..... jump it up to 3/4".

By the way.... are these one or two sided ??
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Then go with the 1/2" and pull the posts in about 8" or 9" from each end. Even up to a foot if you want. That won't warp unless you do something wrong. Posts must go in the ground at least 36" and packed about every 6" or so as you backfill. Otherwise your sign will push up out of the ground in about 6 months or fall over due to winds. we are going into some of the windiest times of the year.... especially next Spring.

We usually go 38" to 42" according to the soil conditions. Our frost line is 20" so going 20" past that is a safe bet.
 
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