Pool graphics? Is this doable?

[RG]

I have a customer who wants a 4' X 4' full-color logos printed and installed on the bottom of fiberglass swimming pools. Logos will be installed with NO water in the pools. And, he said the surface is very smooth. Because these pools are in a water park right next to a large lake, they may not use chlorine in the water. So, my question is, can I just print this as usual, using a ValueJet printer and eco solvent ink, laminate it and install it? Will that work? Or, is there some special printable vinyl and laminate that should be used? If there is chlorine in the water, how will that affect the vinyl? Or, is this just a bad idea that I should run away from? Thanks for any input.

 

[rjssigns]

Interesting. I'd think at bare minimum you'd want to seal the graphic edges with some type of urethane. Better bet may be to coat it completely with automotive urethane. Some epoxies have a tendency to yellow when exposed to UV.

A friend of mine actually paints the bottoms of pools. If the logos aren't complicated you could do that.

Just throwing these ideas out there. YMMV

 

[MachServTech]

What is the expected longevity. Is this promotional or permanent?

 

[DirtyD]

I believe alumagraphics has a media that is for swimming pools and water areas

http://www.alumigraphics.com/cart/pc/viewcontent.asp?idpage=10

 

[RG]

Thanks for your input. Yes, it will be permanent, not promotional. The alumagraphics looks like an option, but $500+ for a 30' roll is a bit much since I will probably need only 8'. Location for the decals will be in the deep end, if that matters.

 

[fozzie]

Ultraflexx has a new product out called aquaflex. Might work.

 

[RG]

I have looked at the aquaflex. There is no adhesive on it, so it just floats to the bottom. Don't know if the kids would let it stay in place. It doesn't say that it is OK for eco solvent ink. Looks like I'll just use the regular printable vinyl, laminate, and edge seal it.

 

[DirtyD]

For the AlumiGraphicsyou can get a 10' for like 99 bucks but I think it's 24" wide..I have printed and used it on a HP Latex L26500 it is a really good product

 

[crystalcoastgraphics]

We have done a few pools, and another scheduled for next week. We use ij180cv3 with lam, prime the edges before applying to a dry clean fiberglass pool. Then we seal the edges with 3m edge sealer. Haven't had any problems. Longest has been down about 3 years.

 

[BIG EASY DOES IT]

Company called aqua decal has two different methods. One for smooth vinyl lined pools and one for concrete/fiberglass. You don't have to empty pool to apply. And they show install methods.

http://www.aquadecal.com/FiberglassConcrete.html

http://www.aquadecal.com/Vinyl.html


Here is a link to each instruction.

 

[RG]

Thanks, DirtyD. Looks like Grimco should be able to sell those demo rolls. Did you have any problems with installing this vinyl?

 

[RG]

Big thanks, crystalcoastgraphics. I was really hoping to hear from some one who has done this job your way. When you say to "prime the edges", do you mean to apply something like 3M 94 primer to the adhesive edges of the vinyl and to the fiberglass surface where the edges of the vinyl will stick?

 

[DirtyD]

Thanks, DirtyD. Looks like Grimco should be able to sell those demo rolls. Did you have any problems with installing this vinyl?

Absolutley not, it was a cake, I put it down on a sidewalk infront of our store door, just swept the dirt/dust away layed it down and took a roller too it, no heat nothing... it can tear though as it's thin aluminum if your rough with it, I kept it down for 1 year and it pealed right up then went in with the aluminum scrap.

 

[SightLine]

I have done it. Actually tested some in our own pool.... my first test with an air release adhesive cast vinyl failed after a couple of months. The water was getting into the air channels and caused it to start coming up around the edges. This was not edge sealed though. Next test I added an extra 3/4" of laminate all the way around the graphic (can be tricky to do with custom contour cut shapes but it can be done) and used just plain cast vinyl and it was down for over 3 years and still looked great. Probably could use an air release adhesive vinyl with the extra laminate beyond the edges but I did not try it that way.

 

[RG]

I appreciate your input, SightLine. I intend to use air release vinyl. I'm hooked on it. Will you share the trick to cutting laminate .75" larger than the decal? I will have to contour cut this decal. And, I assume that you did not edge seal the laminate. Right? And, since all vinyl shrinks over the years, will that shrinking pull the sealed edge loose in some places? Or, does edge sealing keep the vinyl from shrinking?

 

[crystalcoastgraphics]

Yes, prime with primer 94, and edge seal well.

If you want to do the laminate contour cut, just save 2 files one with contour cut to edge and another contour cut 1/2" off edge, other with one 1/2" outside the edge only. Some rips allow for multiple ones in same file and you can select which one cuts, but VW doesn't so this is how we do it. Print and cut first one with inner path and outer cuts and use crop marks. Then weed out that 1/2" area around the graphic and laminate. Then put back in cutter and cut outer cut file only. This will cut through that laminate only and give you the 1/2" laminate edging you want.

Personally, I'd just cut it normal, and edge seal. Much easier

Here is a pic of a waterline tile we did in a pool, not bottom print, but still the bottom 1/2 is under the water at all times. I can't find any good pics of ones on the bottom.