Poster paper/paper for hp360

[Mountain1]

So, the 360 is up and running and every media has printed beautifully... except for heavy paper. It's creating waves prior to post. Turned the heat down to 170 and still have the same problem. Saw a little about this issue with them before but was wondering if anyone found a heavy weight paper that's working for them. Thanks!

 

[cesargraphics]

Got my hp latex 360 installed last week...

I tried the Hp Photo realistic poster pape[FONT=Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif]r [/FONT]# HPCG421A

and that works fine...

 

[richsweeney]

This may not help, I have a 25500 and use 54" x 165' Sihl 3686, I have always had a problem with head strikes, until I turned up the vacuum to around 40lbs.

 

[dypinc]

The L360 is not the same as the L25500 when it comes to paper. Paper that ran fine in the L25500 now has problems in the L360 even with the vacuum maxed out. Not sure if it is printing with less humidity in the winter 30 to 40% or if it is that all the heating is much closer to the print zone.

I have some Endura papers coming in this week. I'll report back my findings.

 

[Dan360]

We use Poster MAX (10mil) by Magic as general poster paper. We have had some others that had the wave effect as well but mostly under heavy coverage. No problems with the Poster MAX.

 

[Bly]

Uncoated papers don't print well in the 360s.
I managed to get the HP PhotoRealistic Poster paper to print without buckling but got a weird dot pattern from the hot air that blows on the media as it exits the machine.
Coated solvent papers work fine in it.

 

[Sign Eagle]

We've been using Endura in our L25500 and it works great.

 

[dypinc]

Damn, I thought Endura Poster 225 10 mil was working fine (didn't buckle) but today on a poster with purple color 2/3s of the left side printed all speckly like that ink was soaking in different than the right side. Coating obviously not consistent as it print beautifully on the right side.

So back to the paper search for the L360.

Job gets printed on the Canon iPF9000 for now.

 

[Hotspur]

Papers with HP360

The lack of a print zone heater means some papers are more challenging on a 360 Vs previous latex printers although coated solvent papers should be fine.

There are some tips to get most papers working:

1. reduce print zone vacuum (counter-intuitive I know but it's the recommendation)
2. Lower temp
3. Reduce Ink
4. Use take-up
5. Download fresh profile (stock profiles are tweaked & updated often online but most people only download profiles for new substrates and never refresh the original library)
6. Build new profile cloning from either Sihl 886 or HP Photorealistic profile as these force the printer to use the strongest heater-zone vacuum level.

Hopefully this might help.

 

[BIG EASY DOES IT]

The L360 is not the same as the L25500 when it comes to paper. Paper that ran fine in the L25500 now has problems in the L360 even with the vacuum maxed out. Not sure if it is printing with less humidity in the winter 30 to 40% or if it is that all the heating is much closer to the print zone.

I have some Endura papers coming in this week. I'll report back my findings.

I can't back this up because I don't have both machines at the same time. But it seems like the way angle it comes off the vacuum platen and into the drying zone is what's causing problems. We had similar wavy problems with a reflective. As soon as you attach to take up reel the problems went away.

 

[chrisaka]

We use the HP Photo Realistic paper without issue in our L360 as well. Have you tried that?

 

[danno]

Job gets printed on the Canon iPF9000 for now.

+1 only we just upgraded to a 9400.

 

[daenterpri]

We tried the HP Photo Realistic Poster Paper on our L360 and we got head strikes in 5 out of 6 prints. Called HP and they said they knew that was an issue and recommended going with a different poster media for the L360.

 

[Vinyldog]

playing with fire

Using 3686 Tri-solve on an L310 with the profile for that material I was getting head-strikes and waves as it past through the heater until I reduced the temp down to about 170.

I was advised to reduce heat in increments of 5 degrees so it took awhile to get there from I think 220, is where the stock profile started.

I think I still got a few random head strikes. Scrubbed images, not the kind that would crash the carriage.