Power supply and weep hole location

[Vonsignage]

Greenhorn here. I’m sure these questions are answered somewhere on here but my searches didn’t come up with much.

Just finished building a 6” deep single sided kit from signcomp. My only hangup is power supply location and weep holes. From what I’m gathering it’s top or sides for the power supply? Then for weep holes just some 1/4” holes on the bottom with screen over them? Sign is 6x33x81 and will be mounted on a brick wall outdoors.

 

[JBurton]

That will do it, if it didn't come with a tray to mount the power supply to, cut a piece of 040 that will catch the two lips inside the cabinet, to keep it off the bottom of the cabinet where water collects. If that won't work for some reason, we will mount a bolt from the outside, and add a nut under the power supply, and one on top, this will hold it up by the width of the nut at least.
Drain holes at either end with a piece of bent 040 keeping the light leak in is just fine. It's not like anybody is turning a water hose on in there. The UL test for an exterior enclosure for wet rating is pouring a bucket of water over the sign and seeing if water gets on any components inside.

 

[JBurton]

Oh, and put the power supply toward one end or the other, so to service you only need to slide the sign face a few inches out of the retainer, and not haul it to the ground.

 

[Vonsignage]

Thank you so much this is exactly what I needed. I really appreciate you taking the time to write this all out for me.

 

[JBurton]

If it save someone the trouble of pulling a face to the ground, it was well worth it!
Now if only I could monetize this knowledge somehow!

 

[Vonsignage]

If it save someone the trouble of pulling a face to the ground, it was well worth it!
Now if only I could monetize this knowledge somehow!

I’m thinking the JBurton school of knowledge has a ring to it.

 

[ProSignTN]

That will do it, if it didn't come with a tray to mount the power supply to, cut a piece of 040 that will catch the two lips inside the cabinet, to keep it off the bottom of the cabinet where water collects. If that won't work for some reason, we will mount a bolt from the outside, and add a nut under the power supply, and one on top, this will hold it up by the width of the nut at least.
Drain holes at either end with a piece of bent 040 keeping the light leak in is just fine. It's not like anybody is turning a water hose on in there. The UL test for an exterior enclosure for wet rating is pouring a bucket of water over the sign and seeing if water gets on any components inside.

Check your manufactures mounting instructions for power supplies, transformers and ballasts. They all produce heat and work better & last longer when in contact with a heat sink. Many years ago I lost many dollars on warranties for ballasts which had been double nutted, hence creating a space between the ballast and a heat sink. The preferably mount would be direct on at least .080.

 

[ProSignTN]

Other than the heat sink issue, spot on J.

 

[Vonsignage]

Check your manufactures mounting instructions for power supplies, transformers and ballasts. They all produce heat and work better & last longer when in contact with a heat sink. Many years ago I lost many dollars on warranties for ballasts which had been double nutted, hence creating a space between the ballast and a heat sink. The preferably mount would be direct on at least .080.

Ok thanks for the heads up on that. Would’ve been cool if they came with instructions but maybe it was my job to look them up. I have them mounted directly to the aluminum cabinet. Guess we’ll find out!

 

[JBurton]

Many years ago I lost many dollars on warranties for ballasts which had been double nutted, hence creating a space between the ballast and a heat sink.

Wild, but makes sense. I have a fabricator who would argue that it needs the air to cool it, but a piece of metal under it is a significant heat sink compared to the insulating properties of air.