-
I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...
Precision Board
- Thread starter Jen Goodwin
- Start date
Precision board is HDU, similiar to Sign Foam, it is much dustier
than Sign Foam, and I've heard it doesn't hold up as well as
sign foam does outdoors....very nice to carve, routing shouldn't be
a problem...
It comes in different densities, and thicknesses, and is less
expensive than sign foam...
Treat it as you would MDO, sand, prime, and I would use
all oil based paints and I shot paint for letters (my own
preference)...I would also put at least two coats of
paint on the surface because it is pourous ...
than Sign Foam, and I've heard it doesn't hold up as well as
sign foam does outdoors....very nice to carve, routing shouldn't be
a problem...
It comes in different densities, and thicknesses, and is less
expensive than sign foam...
Treat it as you would MDO, sand, prime, and I would use
all oil based paints and I shot paint for letters (my own
preference)...I would also put at least two coats of
paint on the surface because it is pourous ...
Jen Goodwin
New Member
Thanks!!
Does this mean that I shouldn't have to use the fillers etc.? Just sand, clean prime and paint?dccas said:
what do you mean by fillers? HDU dents and chips, pebbles from transporting
puts holes (dents) into it....I fill those with spackle paste, just have to be
careful, cause when you paint if the spackle isn't properly primed and smoothed over well, you will see the spackle (shows up shiny), ...
depending on size of spackle, I sometimes prime first, then spackle, sand, prime with BIN, then start putting on final coats, and of course, the more
you paint, the less you'll see of the spackle...
maybe Precision Board is more porous than Sign Foam, hence the fillers, but if I was doing it, I wouldn't use any fillers unless it was absolutey necessary
puts holes (dents) into it....I fill those with spackle paste, just have to be
careful, cause when you paint if the spackle isn't properly primed and smoothed over well, you will see the spackle (shows up shiny), ...
depending on size of spackle, I sometimes prime first, then spackle, sand, prime with BIN, then start putting on final coats, and of course, the more
you paint, the less you'll see of the spackle...
maybe Precision Board is more porous than Sign Foam, hence the fillers, but if I was doing it, I wouldn't use any fillers unless it was absolutey necessary
HDU is very easy to paint, just make sure to blow all the dust off the surface with an airgun. You don't have to use a primer for adhesion but we normally do just to get a smooth surface. You will find that HDU is compatible with any of the paints you normally use. We use oneshot with hardener over signfoam primer.
ernie
ernie
Jen Goodwin
New Member
This is what I found on their website:
FSC-88 Primer/Filler - solvent based. Brush/Roll/Spray Grade.
FSC-88 WB Primer/Filler - water based. Brush/Roll/Spray Grade.
FSC-360 WB Crack Filling and Repair Material - water based. Putty Knife Grade.
TSF-45 Texturing coating that stays flexible - water based. Great for adding wood grain, stucco, etc.
PB Bond-240 Urethane Adhesive - one part.
PB Fast Set Urethane Adhesive - one part, 30 min cure
EP-75 Epoxy Adhesive and Potting Maerial - two part.
PB Resin - clear coat for creating a fast ultra smooth surface. No Priming or sanding required.
Also PB Hardcoat.
I was unaware that I had to get other products, I just thought I could sand, prime and paint...then I found all these other products and I got a little worried that I didn't know enough about the material. This is an expensive little sign for a 'great potential' new customer, I don't want it to fail on me because I missed an important step.
FSC-88 Primer/Filler - solvent based. Brush/Roll/Spray Grade.
FSC-88 WB Primer/Filler - water based. Brush/Roll/Spray Grade.
FSC-360 WB Crack Filling and Repair Material - water based. Putty Knife Grade.
TSF-45 Texturing coating that stays flexible - water based. Great for adding wood grain, stucco, etc.
PB Bond-240 Urethane Adhesive - one part.
PB Fast Set Urethane Adhesive - one part, 30 min cure
EP-75 Epoxy Adhesive and Potting Maerial - two part.
PB Resin - clear coat for creating a fast ultra smooth surface. No Priming or sanding required.
Also PB Hardcoat.
I was unaware that I had to get other products, I just thought I could sand, prime and paint...then I found all these other products and I got a little worried that I didn't know enough about the material. This is an expensive little sign for a 'great potential' new customer, I don't want it to fail on me because I missed an important step.
Jen,
Just sand, blow off the residue, prime and paint..
you need not use fillers UNLESS you have a major
flaw in the substrate...the epoxy is for cluing piece to
piece (ie: you may need a 60" x 120" substrate and
rather than buying a 60" x 120" - rather pricey, you
would clue, and if you do clue, you Gorilla Glue)..
anyways,
sand well after the primer and all additional coats..
Just sand, blow off the residue, prime and paint..
you need not use fillers UNLESS you have a major
flaw in the substrate...the epoxy is for cluing piece to
piece (ie: you may need a 60" x 120" substrate and
rather than buying a 60" x 120" - rather pricey, you
would clue, and if you do clue, you Gorilla Glue)..
anyways,
sand well after the primer and all additional coats..
Jen Goodwin
New Member
Awesome, I am no longer scared 
I am actually looking forward to this now. Thank You!!
I am actually looking forward to this now. Thank You!!
Jen Goodwin
New Member
: 
Jen Goodwin
New Member
I'm not entirely sure what they were planning to use exactly, but I was told that it was on 4" High Density Urethane; although it looked like 2" to me. I quoted it on 2", 18# Density Precision Board and needless to say, my price was much higher than that. Oh well, can't win them all I guess! Thanks for helping me out with all the info though, I appreciate it and I'll store it away for future use 
Jen Goodwin
New Member
That's more like it. That is more in line with what I quoted and I was still cheaper than that. I was worried when I gave her the quote that I would be ridiculously low - I didn't want that; I contemplated the low price before I sent it...but when she told me what she paid for the existing sign I was shocked - I still am. They must really want to do that sign! (it IS for a good company...maybe they factored that in and I am missing the boat)