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Print ( GREY ) without spot color ?

autoexebat

New Member
20200326_170802.jpg 20200326_170807.jpg 20200326_170818.jpg Here are the results , It does look like the LC is an issue . I don't think it can be a damper as 2 lines go to it , so another color should be bad as well ? LC damper is shared with Yellow , so if damper is bad I would only assume yellow would use issues as well ? lc.JPG

Anyway , let me know .
 
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Jim Hancock

Old School Technician
My assessment is, unfortunately, it is the printhead. I do not feel it is the damper, as that typically results in banding, not overspray. FYI, the damper is a dual damper and one side can be problematic without the other side going bad. When the head was replaced, were new dampers installed? If you replace the head, you should replace all the dampers at the same time.
 

autoexebat

New Member
Yes I changed the head myself and new dampers with it . I have 10 more brand new dampers here I was going to try one but I guess I will save them ..
 

autoexebat

New Member
If anyone would like to send me a (test file) to print I will gladly do it , I use versaworks so I will set it however you wish and we can see the outcome ?
 

Jim Hancock

Old School Technician
Actually, it explains the warm shift exactly. RGB and/or CMYK gray depends upon the balance of CMY(LcLm) in the linearization and the ICC profile. The loss of cyan density will result in the magenta now becoming stronger, resulting in a warm tone in the grays and a color shift in any color using the cyan. It may or may not be noticable in the colors, depending upon how much cyan loss there is, but will definitely be seen in gray tones. You are getting neutral when using a spot color, as CMY(LcLm) is not being used. This knowledge comes from my experience in color management and color profiling over the last 20 years, in both the sign trade and the fine art world, which is much more demanding.
 
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Jim Hancock

Old School Technician
Try this file. It is the first file I print after creating a profile.
 

Attachments

  • Onyx Quality Test.pdf
    4.8 MB · Views: 270

autoexebat

New Member
Yeah I can see it as well , I wish I knew why this would happen to a head that is only 15 months old. Can you recommend a place to get a new one ? different.jpg
 

WYLDGFI

Merchant Member
The nozzles are there....there shouldn't be a loss in density though. Misalignment would be obvious. Almost thinking is electrical. Did you reseat your ribbon cable on the PH's? We see issues from time to time where the jet test gets wonky and its an electrical glitch. We reseat the ribbons for the PH's and back up and running on our Agfa.
 

WYLDGFI

Merchant Member
I don't know about the die electric grease...its not a battery terminal or anything. Check the connectors and make sure they're clean.
 

Jim Hancock

Old School Technician
Here's the thing about nozzle test prints vs. actual files. The nozzle test is like starting your car and it idles great. There is no real load on the printhead to print a nozzle test. Now you drive down the highway and at highway speed, your car is running rough. This is the print head working under a load printing a file. That is why I suggested the fill test - like driving down the highway. The Onyx file shows how this is affecting overall color. I would not use dielectric grease on your printer. If you are concerned about corrosion, you can carefully burnish the connects on the ribbon cables with a pencil eraser.
 

autoexebat

New Member
Thanks good idea , This is a in home printer and only gets used a couple of hours a day so the overall condition of the printer / cables and all that its probably as close to MINT as you can get , but i will try the cables today and post another update. What do you think happened to this head to cause it to go bad so soon ? just a little bad luck ?
 

Jim Hancock

Old School Technician
Checking my sources for print head availability. I can almost guarantee the ribbons are not your issue. I would say this comes under shxx happens. Any head strikes or crashes? What ink are you using, as this can be a factor. Roland ink is always good, and there are some 3rd party inks that are good and a lot that aren't. I have experience with both. When people start basing their choice of ink on cartridge/bottle price, that can be very misleading as to actual savings. A more accurate figure to base ink choice on is a cost/benefit analysis and how much your ink cost per square foot is and how much volume you print. You would be surprised how much OEM ink you can buy for the cost of a print head.
 

autoexebat

New Member
No head crashes at all , I hate to admit but I have been using jetbest inks. Let me know what you find out on the head . I have 10 dampers here .
 
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