printing on mesh with no backing?

[Pauly]

is it possible to print onto a mesh with out the backing with using a UV printer?

All our mesh has backing on it, but i believe the ink will get stuck on the surface where the material sits?

 

[SignosaurusRex]

is it possible to print onto a mesh with out the backing with using a UV printer?

All our mesh has backing on it, but i believe the ink will get stuck on the surface where the material sits?

Please expound upon your question.

 

[Pauly]

Please expound upon your question.

All the PVC mesh banners we print on have a plastic back that you peel off when done. i believe its there so the ink doesnt clog up onto the printer?

We have been asked to do a mesh, more or like a shade cloth. but im not sure if the ink will go though and stick to the printer ect.

 

[SignosaurusRex]

All the PVC mesh banners we print on have a plastic back that you peel off when done. i believe its there so the ink doesnt clog up onto the printer?

We have been asked to do a mesh, more or like a shade cloth. but im not sure if the ink will go though and stick to the printer ect.

Are you sure it does not have a micro-film backing? What brand and series material are you intending to print on?

 

[SignMeUpGraphics]

I'm going to take a stab in the dark, but if this is a one off I'd lay a piece of vinyl down over the suction platen to protect it, then adjust roll tenstion as necessary.
The suction on the Arizona RMO is weak already so I can't imagine this being too different to the norm.
I remember seeing somewhere in the consumables list you can also get disposable media clamps for the edges of the roll material which stick to the platen and prevent head strikes. Never seen anyone use them though.

Edit: Actually you could use the same porous paper made for the flat bed (we just use cheap recycled bond paper) which still allows the vacuum to suck through it... it would prevent the ink sticking to the platen too.

 

[Pauly]

Are you sure it does not have a micro-film backing? What brand and series material are you intending to print on?

It's for Temp fencing. so looking at the cheapest of the cheapest. I may have found a material worthy enough though with a backing.

I'm going to take a stab in the dark, but if this is a one off I'd lay a piece of vinyl down over the suction platen to protect it, then adjust roll tenstion as necessary.
The suction on the Arizona RMO is weak already so I can't imagine this being too different to the norm.
I remember seeing somewhere in the consumables list you can also get disposable media clamps for the edges of the roll material which stick to the platen and prevent head strikes. Never seen anyone use them though.

Edit: Actually you could use the same porous paper made for the flat bed (we just use cheap recycled bond paper) which still allows the vacuum to suck through it... it would prevent the ink sticking to the platen too.

Nah it wont be a one off. It'll be ongoing. i didn't want to baby the arizona if it'll get clogged up ect. But may have found the material im after with backing. To the point we may consider another printer (another topic)

 

[TrustMoore_TN]

It's for Temp fencing. so looking at the cheapest of the cheapest. I may have found a material worthy enough though with a backing.



Nah it wont be a one off. It'll be ongoing. i didn't want to baby the arizona if it'll get clogged up ect. But may have found the material im after with backing. To the point we may consider another printer (another topic)

I worked for a company that did exactly this, with sports field/tennis court netting. The client bought container fulls of mesh from China, and brought it to us to print, and it had no backer. We were running it on a HP FB750 which had a conveyor belt. We ran some test prints that they were very happy with and charged $2.50/sq ft for printing only. Mostly white, but we would do step/repeat logos in runs up to 50+ feet. We had to clean the belt about once a week when we were running a bunch of it, but used rubbing alcohol and plastic wrap (to keep evaporation down) and it took a few hours, but worked very well. The amount of money we were able to charge for it made up for the additional maintenance. The client was hand painting logos previously, so for him it was a win/win with the turnaround time he could get, plus he was shipping the hand painted mesh from the west coast to the east coast for install. That customer was our biggest and most profitable customer for several years. If you can do it in volume, I'd definitely look into it. Your cost/mileage may vary.