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Problem with arlon calender sticking to wood
- Thread starter Spud
- Start date
gabagoo
New Member
I remember a customer wanted lettering to make his own a frame many years ago. I told him he better sand that wood and put a very thick layer of paint on if he expected the vinyl to stick.
He came back a few weeks later to complain to me about my lousy vinyl that does not stick and I swear the wood looked like regular plywood with a light covering of primer. needless to say I did recut it and he did re pay me.
Needs to be non pourous to a certain degree i suppose so that the adhesive can set up and stick. The only other thing i can think of is that maybe there is some form of silicone in the paint?
Lastly does thre vinyl stick well to a piece of plastic or countertop? Can you feel the adhesive for tack?
He came back a few weeks later to complain to me about my lousy vinyl that does not stick and I swear the wood looked like regular plywood with a light covering of primer. needless to say I did recut it and he did re pay me.
Needs to be non pourous to a certain degree i suppose so that the adhesive can set up and stick. The only other thing i can think of is that maybe there is some form of silicone in the paint?
Lastly does thre vinyl stick well to a piece of plastic or countertop? Can you feel the adhesive for tack?
Sticky Signs
New Member
The wood has to be smooth and well prepped. High gloss paint or even shelack (spell check Isle 3) will work but the wood has to be SMOOTH. Picture all the little peaks and valleys in the wood grain. The vinyl will only stick to the peaks and will eventually let go. If the wood is in bad shape you can make up some fat paint to help smooth it out. Take some paint and mix in some fast set till the paint thickens. Roll it on to the surface. Let it dry, quick sand and apply your top coat of glossy paint. Let that dry and your vinyl should stick just fine.
Poconopete
New Member
Anyone know what CDX ply is? I have a client that insists on using this raw, exterior ply for his signs. He primes and paints it with latex (no edge treatment), I hit it with a quick coat of Rustoleum clear enamel and slap the vinyl on (ORACAL 751). ZERO failures in over 6 years.
Sign Eagle
New Member
I would agree it's most likely the paint. About 1 year ago we installed some Avery low tac wall material on a painted wall, semi gloss finish, 2 weeks later customer called some of the letters were curling off the wall. Since the job was 30 miles down the road I printed more vinyl and cut new lettering. I replaced about 6 or 6" letter that were curlin on the edge. I had use Avery as it is the only one I know of that advertises you can prin to the edge and cut, the customer had specified a pantone color and wanted removable vinyl. I took the curled letters back to my shop and install them on our wall, they are still there, no curl a year latter.
I also had a similar problem about 20 years ago with hi performance vinyl on a customer painted wood surface. We lettered the wood the customer picked it up in a pick-up truck and by the time he got to his destination most of the lettering had blown off. Some easy clean scrubbable paints have additives that will not allow adhesive to stick.
I also had a similar problem about 20 years ago with hi performance vinyl on a customer painted wood surface. We lettered the wood the customer picked it up in a pick-up truck and by the time he got to his destination most of the lettering had blown off. Some easy clean scrubbable paints have additives that will not allow adhesive to stick.
Dave Drane
New Member
This has been discussed here too many times to be bothered. Please use the search engine, that is what it is there for. I know the answer, but search first and ask later!!
Spud
New Member
The search fuction here is sluggish at best. Google heeds more results on this topic then this. Without knowing the exact words I would be looking for, how would a search do me justice. Looks like I'm getting good information on my topic.
Also, the minute you took on writing a critic on the way I do things, couldn't you have been helpful and post a link? Oh forums.
Thanks everyone.
@Poco, I'm going to try that clear enamel, I think that exactly what may could do the trick. Thanks a bunch.
Keep you guys updated.
Also, the minute you took on writing a critic on the way I do things, couldn't you have been helpful and post a link? Oh forums.
Thanks everyone.
@Poco, I'm going to try that clear enamel, I think that exactly what may could do the trick. Thanks a bunch.
Keep you guys updated.
Graphicholik3
New Member
If the surface isn't 100% smooth you need a media with 'air release' to confirm to the texture. I would recommend testing out a piece of 3M IJ180 or IJ40. Possibly a sealant to go over the surface of the wood. Best of luck!