Problem with Perf Cutting on SP-300V

[Mikesbales]

I don't do too much perf cutting, so I hope this is an easy fix. When I am having it perf cut rectangles (small american flag) the corners seem to tear and the media then gets jammed and subsequently ruined. Is there a setting of some sort to help with this at all? Or is this just the nature of perforated cutting? Thanks in advance.

 

[jsalda]

I've never tried cutting perf as I figured it just wouldn't work. I would think that what you are experiencing is just the nature of the beast. Here's what I think is happening.

The blade applies downward pressure on the vinyl when it cuts. The vinyl resists the blade pressure in accord with Newton's Third Law, for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. So when the blade encounters one of the holes in perf, there is no resistance, and it's going to drop slightly. Then, when it hits the edge of the vinyl on the other side of the hole, it's going to bounce up, thus causing an ever so slight "skipping" as it cuts across the vinyl as a whole. Factor in a 90 degree change of direction and there's just too many factors combating physics.

The only thing that I can think of that would help is a laminate, so that there would be some material going over the holes, and the blade wouldn't experience a drastic change in resistance.

 

[eahicks]

Lol...I think he is talking about perf cutting as in plotting perforations for individual decals to come apart.

 

[Ragnabrok]

If this is for using perf-cut, and not cutting perf vinyl, there are settings in VW for the job under cut controls where you can set the length of the tabs, and length of the cut-through parts, and the pressure of each.

Likely somewhere between the lengths, pressures and maybe even blade offset or too much blade sticking out, or media too warm you are getting this issue. I've cut roughly 4" x 6" perf cut through vinyl without any issue with the default settings, maybe your decals are smaller, and need shorter cut through parts?

 

[Mikesbales]

Thanks for the comments guys. This is about perf cutting, not cutting perforated material. I've just been using the standard VW settings under the cut configuration (1.8" Cut / 0.019" perf) w/ 195g cut force. Now that you mention it I think that reducing that number on smaller decals would be a good idea (kinda mad that I didn't think of it lol). I'll be trying it shortly and will follow up. Thanks again!

 

[splizaat]

I have NEVER been able to get perfcut to work properly. I eventually gave up....the rack gets so flimsy that eventually it ends up falling all apart in the printer and blah blah blah

 

[ScottB]

I've been experimenting with perf cutting on my VP540. I've run into the same issue with the stickers falling out, getting ripped, or even causing carriage stoppage. For small stuff, short deep cuts (all the way through) and numerous (more than default) "connections" help to hold the sticker in place. For larger stuff, longer deep cuts and numerous connections work.
I know your next question, so what are the best settings? Remember, I said I was experimenting?
I thought that when I found settings that worked well for a sticker, it would be somewhat universal to all sizes and applications. Boy was I wrong!
If the vinyl is laminated, the overall thickness is greater, giving the sticker more support. Would this mean fewer connections would be wise? Don't decrease it too much.
I've had luck with getting the setting right once where I could "flick" the bumper stickers out of the "frame" as they rolled off the printer. Oh, that was so sweet! Ever since then, I've not been able to find the perfect settings and I've had to use a knife to separate the stickers.
So, here's my basic logic:
Figure out the outside circumference/perimeter of the perfcut line. Say a 6 inch wide by 4 inch tall bumper sticker. Outside perimeter is 20 inches.
Add the Normal Pressure Length (the connector) to the the Perforation Length (deep cut). This should equal the space between connectors.
Now, divide the space between connectors by the perimeter and that will give you an idea as to how many connectors will be on each sticker.
If the result consists of a decimal number, this means that the connectors will be bunched up at end/starting point of the perfcut.
The goal is to make this a "whole" number (no decimal places). So adjusting the Normal Pressure length and/or Perforation Length requires recalculation.
Enough math and eventually you'll start to see a pattern and estimate how many connections are necessary for the perimeter. Enough trial and error and hopefully, you'll figure out the right amount of connectors.
As if this wasn't difficult at all, another trick to this is to make sure that there is a connector at each corner of the rectangle.
By now you're thinking that I really need a hobby and need to get out of the house a lot more. But I'm hoping this helps somebody who's smarter, and has a lot more experience than me, to figure out that I'm on to something and can fill in the final details, or tell me I'm wrong, and enlighten all of us onto the true secret of perf cutting!
I'm open to suggestions! Cause whatever I'm doing isn't quite working!
Peace!