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Problems print Window Mesh

WrapperX

WrapperX

New Member
Does anyone else seem to have trouble printing adhesive mesh on the HP LJ25500? It seems that I have to lay a piece of tape down on the edges to get the carriage to recognize the roll edges. But even if I get it to view the media it seems like I'm getting some massive curl on the edges as it prints. I can hear these curled up edges rubbing the bottom of the carriage as it prints - which means its rubbing the heads which is - obviously - not good.

Does anyone have suggestions on how they deal with this media? Your help is greatly appreciated.

:thankyou:
 
sfr table hockey

sfr table hockey

New Member
Sorry I can't help, but you might want to say what media brand you were using just in case it is a media issue.
Also your heat settings?
 
strypguy

strypguy

New Member
Not sure about the edge detection problem. I print on a Roland SP300V and it came with media clamps that hold down the edges of the media as it passes by the heads. There are long and short versions and I usually use the long ones when printing clear focus perf.

Another tip is to allow extra material at the front and hang some large paper or binder clips on there to add weight to the media so it won't have a chance to lift or bunch up as it goes through. The perf seems to be lighter material then most printable vinyls.


John
 
Aklaim

Aklaim

New Member
I have the exact same edge curl issue with Clear Focus on our L25500. I didn't have any problems when I was using the Solvex material from Fellers which I thought was weird because in their catalog they list latex inks as compatible for the CF and not the Solvex. I'm going to try and turn down the heat next time I have to print on the CF perf and see if that helps anything. You would think a more expensive product rated to last longer outdoors would perform better inside the machine, but thats not the case here.
 
WrapperX

WrapperX

New Member
But the heat has to be at a certain level to ensure proper drying - If I put it too low then I have wet ink. I've tweaked the heat settings and it seems that I can't get much lower then it is.

What do you all have as your heat settings for printing Mesh on the HP?
 
robracer

robracer

New Member
WrapperX said:
But the heat has to be at a certain level to ensure proper drying - If I put it too low then I have wet ink. I've tweaked the heat settings and it seems that I can't get much lower then it is.

What do you all have as your heat settings for printing Mesh on the HP?
Click to expand...

We have been able to get away with 90 degC
 
robracer

robracer

New Member
WrapperX said:
Did you profile your window mesh or do you use a profile you built for some other media?
Click to expand...

We just used a backlit vinyl ICC profile (more ink deposit) @ 10 pass / bi directional to speed things up but in theory you could even go to 4 pass as it would be hard to see any difference but yeah as mentioned above ..... the heat is the biggest factor, we found 85 deg was slimy but 90 deg works a treat.

We have found that in this case most profiles are way off especially for colour
we tried a matching ICC profile that printed a reflex blue too purple & a totally different non matching profile prints the color perfect, we are doing heaps of trials to work out the best combinations for our stock but it takes a bit of time to do.
 
WrapperX

WrapperX

New Member
Yeah - I have found that you can't really profile acurately because there isn't a solid surface to follow. And then when you apply it to a window - the colors will look differently depending on if it's tinted or not. So we have usually just used the same profile for whatever vinyl we are printing it next to. So if we are using it on a vehicle wrap then we print the windows with our 1005 profile.

I guess we'll just have to keep an eye on heat levels and see if we can drop them for when we print this stuff....

As for ICC profiles - I suggest advise building your own. After using many Stock ICC profiles from the distributors most of them are not accurate at all.
 
Rydaddy

Rydaddy

New Member
WrapperX said:
Yeah - I have found that you can't really profile acurately because there isn't a solid surface to follow. And then when you apply it to a window - the colors will look differently depending on if it's tinted or not. So we have usually just used the same profile for whatever vinyl we are printing it next to. So if we are using it on a vehicle wrap then we print the windows with our 1005 profile.

I guess we'll just have to keep an eye on heat levels and see if we can drop them for when we print this stuff....

As for ICC profiles - I suggest advise building your own. After using many Stock ICC profiles from the distributors most of them are not accurate at all.
Click to expand...

+1
 
A

AndreColon

New Member
Just a quick question about this, which CF are you using? Clear liner or paper liner? I had same issue with CF Classic Vue with plastic, switched to paper and MUCH better. Paper liner Good, Plastic Liner Bad. At least for me.
 
Christian @ 2CT Media

Christian @ 2CT Media

Active Member
Order the CF with a paper liner that's how we solved both the curl and detection issues... The latex/paper issue is not true and i've never had the spanned ink over a hole that people mention with paper liners.
 
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