Suggestions Quieting a LOUD Colex SharpCut vac table?

Ear plugs are the worst! Get some of these! I use them mostly for mowing, but initially got them for the CNC table. Every once in a while I have to double check that grass is being cut, because I can't tell if the blade is going.
Edit: Forgot to mention, all the cheapy headphones tended to hurt after extended periods of wear. These are drastically more comfortable than the cheap nonbluetooth versions, fwiw.

 

If this is an older model, it is possible that the box for the motors has come apart.
If this bothers you enough you could consider extending the wires and the hoses to move the vac motor boxes farther away.
the exhausting pipes at the end could also be routed farther out to reduce noise.
If your machine has the oscillating tool you could also purchase PET acoustic felt and cut/build your own sound deadening box.
I would not recommend covering your ears as much as possible.
In many machining applications sound is one of the most important variables.
it is better to reduce the noise that is bothering you first.
are there any other issues that you have with the machine?

 

We've struggled with the same. We have made earplugs available to those in other areas, if they choose. When it comes to routing acrylic, we just grin and bear it. My operator wears hearing protection when routing, or using the oscillating tool for a length of time. We though about acoustic panels as well, but they're cumbersome and won't fit well in our space.

 

the oscillating tool on the Colex machines are quite loud due to the engineering and metal on metal sound.
For routing, usually a good sign of cutting acrylic is quiet.
You will need to determine if your excessive sound is due to the material contact with the blade of if it is debris in the spindle altering the balance during rotation.
The longer the bit, especially unnecessarily CEL cutting edge length, will cause extra noise due to vibration.
Your colex machine does have the benefit of low RPM operation and a variety of collets to use.
While they are a competitor, i would advise you to look at your dieline.
Can you get away with a 8mm CED DLC coated bit?
this is a bit wider than standard 6mm but you can cut in 1 pass at a relatively decent edge quality.
Invest in cleaning your spindle and look at the coated tooling.
the Superior coated 6mm bits are good.

You will also need to look at the material.
some have a lower melting point etc.
There isn't a general rule saying you need to use the highest rpm to "continually "mulch" debris while generating hear and wear.
Take the time to set up 6" lines to cut on centerline with varying feed rates and RPM.
make notes on material and adjust your tool library when applicable.
If you have more questions, everyone is welcome to email me.
raumdivarco@cwtworktoolsusa.com
As a former end-user i take all of these things into account to improve our machines and software offering.
I do like sharing information and helping the community.

 

Earmuffs and earplugs won't protect your ears really. I bet those vacs are at 120 db. my chainsaw is 116 but I suspect it's louder. See that pair of 3M earmuffs above this post? They say 29db on them. If you think they lower the db by 29db they don't. That's 29 NRR. The way to calculate the db reduction
is 29 - 7 / 2 = 11db reduction. If your vacs are 120db, the muffs will bring it down -11db to 109db. Way too loud.

So lets add a set of 30db foam plugs under the muffs. The amount of additional protection you can get is an additional -5db reduction. So the most you can reduce the db with the 29db muffs and the 30db foam plugs is 11db + 5db= 16db.

NRR is the north American rating. In Europe they use NSR. It is 6db higher.
So a 30db NRR rating = 36db NSR.

 

Try putting some glasspack mufflers on the exhaust. Get the longest ones you can find with 2" or so inlet/outlet and make up a mounting flange. I'm serious.
Like this:https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/maremont-cherry-bomb-glasspack-muffler-87516/0000000041610?Ntt=glasspack muffler

I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn either. Used to work with ring blowers on splicing equipment. Mufflers we used looked exactly like the old Smithy's glasspacks only painted blue.
Like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MI-sLlzOK46QIViYbACh01gA3_EAQYAiABEgLmrvD_BwE

Noise reduction will be anybodies guess, but it's a start and it will temper that piercing whine.

 

There are commercially available mufflers. We have one on our Gerber. It brings down the volume quite a bit. Most vacuums have a threaded port to add it. Also consider a $15 decibel meter from amazon to make sure your operators have the right equipment. There are probably some similar apps for smart phones that will give you a good idea of what you need.

 

Like already said install a muffler and pipe the exhaust outside if possible.
These may be for larger applications but maybe theyll have something
https://www.pdblowers.com/product-category/accessories/blower-silencers/

 

Wait, the vacuum table is exhausting into the same room? Hell the blower/vacuum is in the same room? How much do you want to spend on this is the real question. I'd plan on routing the exhaust, and ideally the entire blower outside.

 

We have the same issue....just wear ear plugs and ear mufflers.

 

How about the roof? I know it sounds sarcastic, but that's how mine is routed. Amazingly enough, with very little maintenance (other than replacing belts) the area has never developed a leak, and it's been up and running for 30 years...

 

Had no idea about that/had forgotten about that until I came back to this thread. Sex little mufflers under there, but still loud.

 

Funny..One of the reasons I purchased the Colex is that it is quieter than other routers...Ours is in the warehouse...We open the garage door to help dissipate noise...

 

Im actually going to speak to my landlord about putting exhaust vents thru the roll up door where ours is located. Im thinking that will vent all that outside and help with the noise. Doubtful though the landlord will allow a hole cut in the door...